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Been thinking about building my Fuel tank, the biggest thing stopping me is the lack of fuel pump. I'm converting my engine to ITBs that I got from a gsxr600. I might be able to utilize the bike fuel pump, but it's been sitting for quite a few years at this point, and if I need to up the injector size, I'm not sure it could keep up. (Wishful thinking, the bike stock puts out more HP than a 22r Stock )

Anyway, looking around I found the 99-03 F-150 fuel pump looks like it would be pretty easy to adapt, and at a price that is pretty lowcost. Look here.

Any reason this wouldn't work? Anything that I'm not considering? This build has already become quite the amalgamation of brands, (Toyota engine, Ford axle, Suzuki ITBs, Honda mirrors, etc) so I'm not too worried about mixing and matching.

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Cheers,
Logan

The fuel level "senders" are not universal to work with most gauges, though there are add-on circuits to adapt most any gauge to work with most any "sender" for about $100. I'd probably have a separate hole for a sender that matches the gauge and remove the sender from this so it is just a pump mount.

The lines should be 5/16 and 3/8. They are made for quick connect nylon hose but efi pressure rubber hose with slip on and worm gear clamps can be used. If you do not have a return line on the bike injector/regulator system, it can be overcome with a bypass regulator. Non-bypass regulators can be restricted to work but it is better long-term to use a bypass type. The pump will last longer.

it also does not need to be a v8 pump assy.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Thanks for the response. I wasn't even thinking about the sender being compatible with any of my current components. I'm so far from a gauge cluster It's not high in my mind. I do have the bike cluster, but it's a older digital unit which isn't really the vibe I want in my cockpit.



I get this, the f150 unit just seemed to be a decent size and of a construction that would be easy enough to fab into a gas tank. Many 4 cyl assemblies that I found had odd configurations, and needed the correct flange to fit to the tank.

Sound like this is something I can make work though, and thanks for the tip on the bypass regulator, the ITBs don't have a return line, and I was debating how I would retrofit one.

_________________
Cheers,
Logan

I see the zuki psi is nearly identical for the f150. A universal adjustable efi rated bypass fpr tee'd at the gsxr600 rail for a return should work well.

Check the sender ohms at full and empty. If it swings the wrong way for the gauge, it bolts on and can be flipped. If the value is a little off at empty (most important position), you can limit the travel and/or add a resistor (series or parallel as needed).

If it isn't easily made compatible for the ohms sweep, an aluminum plate can be bolted on the base to adapt the correct sender assy for a single hole in the tank as long as the float arm gets close enough to the assy to slip everything into the tank.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Does it have to be an in-tank pump? I've seen the old Ford truck pumps (Bosch 69100) and C5 Corvette filter/regulator as well regarded for DIY setups.

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie

Thank you again Miatav8, just reminding me I don't know what I don't know yet. I figured the pressure would be at least high enough, but these are all things that will make it work the first time, or make it that much easier to troubleshoot when it goes together.



Not opposed to it, but having an all in one assembly is appealing, and the price for the assembly is almost half that of the Bosch external pump.

_________________
Cheers,
Logan

The old ford truck systems have tanks without any baffles, a lift pump that is 4-6psi, and a sump jar at the external, hi pressure pump inlet. The return from the fuel rail dumps into this sump jar to keep it full at all times and the excess fuel "vents" to the top line on the jar as a return to the tank. The lift pump can handle some starvation on cornering where the external cannot, long term but it will work for a while without a sump jar. Many people removed the jars out of confusion. Some had filters. The jars are expensive and hard to find now but can and have been fabricated. In a '83 v8 ranger that had an engine driven pump and small steel tank, I converted to a '90s ranger poly tank with 4-6psi lift pump to feed a carb using an aeromotive bypass regulator and return line. No jar or inline high pressure pump.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

My plan was to build a tank fitted closely to the rear of the car with baffles, then make a small sump for the bottom of the fuel pump assembly to fit into 1-2" below the bottom of the tank. Fabricate the sump to the walls go slightly above the interior of the tank and add some holes around the edge to let fuel flow into the sump.

_________________
Cheers,
Logan

If you are fabricating the fuel tank, consider this. My 1st tank was modified as in the sketch. The entire pump fit in the sump. the opening between the floor of the tank and the top of the sump was just large enough to pass the pump assy. It was significantly smaller than the area of the sump. Cornering keeps the sloshed fuel in the sump. There were no baffles. As such, after a long corner, the fuel in the upper tank can quickly refill the sump. It worked better than the OEM RX-7 oil sump that once or twice, starved the oil pump. My 2nd fuel tank was much larger and it had baffles. I didn't have room below to put in the sump. Bad idea.

There are lots of different ways to skin a cat. This is just one that worked for me.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

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rx7, Yeah, I'll be fabricating the tank from scratch. My idea was pretty similar to what you have there. The holes in the picture below are place holders, I will have more and further around the sump.



It's a little tall, but that's to accommodate the Fuel pump assembly... I may look into shortening the assembly to get it a little more flat. As it's designed right now it's at about 14 gallons, could probably get away with a little less.

_________________
Cheers,
Logan

Logan, NICE DESIGN I would suggest that you add 1 or 2 baffles to the design of your tank, to reduce weight transfer during cornering. I would also tack weld a couple piano hinges over the holes in your sump. Over-kill but I added a drain plug to the sump.

Thanks dave! Yeah, I was planning on baffles, I had left them out of the model as I was more worried about the external dimensions. Good suggestion on the hinge and drain, will take those into consideration during construction.

_________________
Cheers,
Logan