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PostPosted: July 30, 2010, 9:13 am 
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Joined: May 9, 2009, 1:44 pm
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Location: northampton ma
ok if you are really getting fuel in the breather system, this will do what you want.
http://www.permatex.com/products/automo ... ealant.htm
take a look


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PostPosted: July 30, 2010, 9:30 am 
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Location: northampton ma
that is permatex #2
looks like the link got shortened


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PostPosted: July 30, 2010, 4:19 pm 
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Joined: March 18, 2008, 10:25 pm
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Location: Savannah, GA
Yes permatex #2 or #1 are gasoline and fuel resistant. #1 is a hard setting sealant and can be used with or without a gasket. #2 is a non-hardening sealant. The napa part number for a small 1.5 oz tube for #1 is 765-1200 and #2 765-1205.


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PostPosted: July 30, 2010, 4:54 pm 
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Location: Visalia, Ca
Thanks for all the responses, Permatex #2 & #3 are looking like the best choices and easiest to get!

Thanks again
Rod

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PostPosted: July 31, 2010, 10:24 am 
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I always use RTV to make the manifold end seals on SBF or SBC V8 engines. They don't directly seal fuel vapors like your setup, but there is always fuel vapor in the crankcase. Some fuel will inevitably leak past your rings, esp on carbureted engines; less so with EFI. But I've never seen RTV disintegrate because of fuel vapors.

I've been using the grey stuff lately. Looks better.

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PostPosted: July 31, 2010, 1:21 pm 
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Location: Savannah, GA
Every tube of RTV on my shelf says "Not recommended for use on head gaskets or parts in contact with gasoline". Vapors would probably take a while to do damage but, anything that sees it for a while or anything difficult to disasemble like the mentioned part for this topic.


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PostPosted: July 31, 2010, 2:31 pm 
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Location: The Humid State of North Carolina
OK... maybe we all looked past the painfully obvious here, but what are they sealed with from the factory?

I missed it as well, so while I was reading back it occurred to me... if you never want to do it again, why not just make a gasket? AZ (or other Parts Ho) has gasket material in rolls.. simply lay it out and trace., then cut it out and slap it in.

Wall-A!! No more leaks and no fuel worries!

Again, maybe I missed something, but after reading the post for the umpteen time, I'd have to say that this would be my preferred choice given the difficulty in access and nature of the environment!

Cheers! :cheers:

KS

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PostPosted: July 31, 2010, 2:53 pm 
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I bought the manifold with the vacuum chamber unmachined, not from a dealer. I finished the vacuum chamber myself and customer support from anyone seems to be nonexistent. No manual exists.

I like the gasket idea, its too simple :oops: . Thats why I asked the question, I knew someone on here would point out the obvious to me. My brain still stuck on programing the fuel injection. That's my excuse anyway. :lol:

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Now building a 1953 Chevy 1 ton panel with Frito Lay truck parts and a Cummins 4BTA
and a 1963 Nova SS


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PostPosted: July 31, 2010, 6:48 pm 
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Kawasaki, Yamaha, and Honda all used to make a silicone sealer for sticking their cases together. I was constant oil and gas fumes.

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PostPosted: July 31, 2010, 8:11 pm 
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Permatex anaerobic flange sealant #51531 should do the trick. It's pretty good stuff.
Edit for data sheet
http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/A ... /51531.pdf
Kristian

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PostPosted: April 15, 2011, 4:33 pm 
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
I revived this old thread because I have a similar yet different question..

My sending unit and fuel pump (stock motorcycle units to run in my stock cluster on my BEC build) will both be screwed into the bottom of my custom aluminum tank- the stock gaskets will work, but I've got to seal the theads too (the steel bike tank uses studs- smart!).... I've researched 'fuel resistant sealant' and keep coming back to a product called "Seal All" that you can find at any Lowe's/Home Depot.. Does anyone have experience with it- or do you know of a good "thread sealant" that is fuel-proof?

thanks-

ccrunner

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PostPosted: April 15, 2011, 5:33 pm 
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No experience with that stuff but I used aircraft fuel tank sealant from Aircraft Spruce to seal the manhole covers and fasteners on my tank. So far no leaks.

A 6 oz caulk tube is around $18. Not the cheapest solution but it seems to work. It was more than enough to do my tank.

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PostPosted: April 15, 2011, 7:09 pm 
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The aircraft stuff should work - there are lots of older aircraft with riveted structure and 'wet wings' that use the wing skins as tank boundaries (P-3 Orions are a good example). The tank sealants are used to coat the whole inside of the tank, not just fittings, to avoid leakage through rivets or joints.

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PostPosted: April 17, 2011, 7:40 am 
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
Lately, I've been using LockTite as a thread sealant. Not all the time, but under weird circumstances. The blue stuff (242) is not that difficult to remove with ordinary hand tools and I cannot find anything that can serve as a solvent. Not gasoline, brake fluid, acetone or any paint thinner. I know it is not an "approved" use of the material, but I love the idea of being able to screw things together with finger pressure (if necessary) and get a leak free connection that has to be removed with a wrench.

Bill


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PostPosted: June 1, 2016, 4:53 pm 
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I've worked in the Petro-Chemical industry for the past 30 or so years. I started using the Permatex "Ultra-Blue" and variants when they first came out. Guaranteed not to leak in fuel. I can say that I have only had one or two instances where it did not work, but they were extreme, with no way to get a reasonably dry / clean surface to start with. I've butted cut o-rings with it, used it in place of gaskets completely etc. Still use it to this day.

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