Bigger? It's just right the way it is. It's funny parking next to stock height Chevies and Dodges, this thing is stock height and pretty much towers over them. It's a seriously tough truck though, and for putting on lots of miles on rough roads, I don't think I'd change anything, except for rubber floors instead of carpet. I do wish it had the 6 speed standard too, but they don't sell them with a manual anymore.
I'm curious about the cylinder wear too, I'm going to try to remember to ask the guy at the machine shop if that's normal for these engines.
Disassembly continues today. I talked to the guy at the machine shop about whether a block with this much cylinder wear is worth rebuilding, and he said it should clean up fine, but .030" is the max you can go. He also said the heads need to be skimmed when they come off, so I'll drop them off too. He said he'll vacuum check the valves and if they leak give them a touch up. I still have to measure the rods for out of round, but the inside where the bearing shell sits isn't shiny, so that's a good sign. The caps are cracked off, so the rods and caps are mated for life. The machinist says if they need work they hone them a couple thou and install oversize outside diameter rod bearings. The crank journals all look like new, so that's a good sign. The cams and bearing caps show a bit of wear, but not really bad enough to catch a nail in. According to a book on rebuilding Ford modular engines, that's pretty much normal and ok. The cams run direct in the aluminum heads, no bearing shells, so that's a bit chintzy. On to the pictures from today.
These things have tiny hydraulic lifters and roller followers. The big block with the electrical connector is the control solenoid for the cam phaser.
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Cam phaser solenoid bolts on the front of the head and sits behind the camshaft sprocket.
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There were three broken exhaust studs between the pair of heads. All broken about 1/8" below the surface of the aluminum head, so nothing to grab.
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I really hate easy outs. A lot of times they just make a situation worse, especially when your trying to pull a steel stud out of aluminum. Get the hole off center just a bit and break of a hard easyout and then you're really in trouble. My dad used to be a machinist, and he said that's usually the point where people would bring stuff to him. There's better ways than that. Center a nut over the broken stud/bolt.
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Weld the nut on, starting in the center of the broken stud and filling up the nut.
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Yay, no more broken studs.
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And now I've got some of the crappiest bolts you'll ever find.
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Pistons, rods, etc. Rod bearings don't show any odd wear patterns and actually look really good still. Lots of carbon on everything though. Full floating wrist pins too, which makes things a bit easier.
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Main caps are all individually marked, and the arrows point to the front of the engine. This one's pretty much just so I remember where to put them back.
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Main bearings show some wear, and something must have gone through a couple of them.
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Crank journals look like new though.
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Old school hotrodders would have killed for an engine like this. Cross bolted mains and everything. There's dowels that get tapped in between the main caps and the sides of the block, then the cross bolts go through them.
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I'm dropping the parts off at the machine shop Monday, and then heading back to work on Tuesday, maybe everything will be ready when I get home in two weeks. I've found a rebuild kit on Amazon for $1000, but haven't heard back if they have them in the correct oversize, so I might just get the machinist to supply parts. He said it would be about $1600-1700 for everything, so not too bad, considering the Amazon kit doesn't include any of the torque to yield bolts. Guess I better make the pictures work, not sure what happened there. Apparently I clicked on disable BBCode, they work now.
Kristian