LocostUSA.com

^^ What he said.

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+442 - Miata

I guess I should put a reply here.

The ITB's are tee'd together using the exact same hoses and ports as were done on the GSXR. There is no "tube/accumulator/filter" nothing - just hooked right up. My map signal is very solid, with none of the fluctuations I feared I would see. I figured I would try it as-is and see what happens. It worked fine for me.

My current tuning is coming along awesomely. It's amazing how much you learn spending hours and hours and hours pouring over the datalogs. Because I have no life. Ha-ha.

Perhaps a more radical cam might cause a problem with tuning - I'm using stock cams.

G

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

How about an update 11 years later?

I don't remember when, exactly, but I did put an OEM limited slip in the car, with a Techno Toy Tuning rebuild kit. This was fantastically worth it.

The Megasquirt has still been going on. I tried for the longerst time to get it "perfect" on speed density, but ITB's really don't work well that way. I gave up and went Alpha-N, and it was instantly more driveable.

The other thing I have been doing is tweaking the bins to have a whole lot more resolution at lower throttle openings, checking datalogs to see where I could really use a specific bin, and just refining the off-idle fueling.

I also figured it would be a good time to change the timing belt. I rebuilt the engine back in '06, but it's been 14 years, so I figured I'd replace the belt anyway. Took about an hour. Did up a dandy video for y'all:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSEeYmDVqwQ

I also added a list of recommendations to my build on my own website, listed here:

• Move the entire cowl back about 4″ to 6″ from the book plans – brings windshield closer, less wind buffeting, and looks less “cartoonish” in proportion
• Raise the rear deck to be the same height as the cowl – looks better
• Use round tube instead of flat bar for the sides of the cockpit by the rear fender – hurts your ribs less
• Use round tube for the transmission tunnel – more comfortable
• Insulate the inside of the transmission tunnel – much more comfortable
• Make sure the pedal box is completely sealed from heat entry – much much more comfortable
• Bend the bottom rear corners of the body to match the top curves
• Make the frame rails under the axle horizontal at least until you clear the axle – more droop travel
• Build the chassis so that everything still clears when the suspension is completely bottomed out – it’s hard to change it later
• Point the steering column at the axle center line – makes more sense to your brain subconsciously
• Run ALL the engine compartment wiring on the non-exhaust manifold side of the chassis
• Use a VW rad reservoir or or some sort of rad fill at an easily accessible highest point
• Modify the brakes to have MORE braking force on the REAR
• The fuel filler needs to be on the outside of the car, not in the boot – pain to fill up when you have four slicks strapped to the rollbar
• Daily driving with a 5-point harness gets old, real quick

And the Sumitomo HTR tires I had bought way back (the cheapest of the cheapest of the cheap) were now pretty old, so I replaced them with Federal 595SS in 185/60R13. Also super cheap ($310US off eBay).



And the ignition system was having some issues, running on 1 cylinder and flooding the cylinders with fuel. I did a wack of chasing, found that the latest update of TunerStudio needs JRE8.0 to run, but JRE8.0 won't install on my WinXP lappy, and now TunerStudio wouldn't talk to MegaSquirt. Took me a while to find an older copy to download, but I was able to talk to MegaSquirt again.

MegaSquirt -seemed- happy with everything.... Opened the entire wiring harness, chased and measured every wire, cleaned and tested injectors, tried two different EDIS modules, plus a different coil pack, and ended up changing plug wires. I think that fixed it.

Could it be that EDIS needs to see a specific resistance of plug wire? I -had- been using NGK wires for the 4AGE, but those, too, are pretty old, and have been rubbing against the underside of the too-hot-to-touch hood.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

Thanx, that is an excellent up-date
"You’re going to need a lot more rear brake bias" ??
You are running with a GTS rear axle and stock brake pads?, with what Dia. front disc?
Yupper, the Federal tires are great and 50% less then my old Yokohama's.
Davew

Hello Skinny
Thanks for the update! Your build log was a great help to me when I started my own build.
To address your coolant filling problem, can I suggest that you go to the junkyard and get a filler from a Toyota Echo?
It will raise your fill height and make it accessible when your nose is attached.
cheers
Doug

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book 4AGE build, Supra W58 transmission, Corolla GTS live axle

Yes, you're going to need more rear brake bias.

My back brakes are Toyota Corolla GT-S, front brakes are Chevy Chevette. Both are around around 2500lbs, similar front weight bias, similar center of gravity height. The 7 is about half that weight, rear-biased, and low.

When you hit the brakes, you don't have a lot of weight transferring forward at all, but you do have a LOT of front brake being applied - expecting that extra weight to be there. Consequently, changing my brakes to dual masters and a balance bar was probably the most significant modification I ever did to the car. This was, however, quite a challenge to do once the car was already completed. I still haven't gotten it sealed for heat.





Regarding the cooling: I actually have something similar on a shelf to do just that, I just haven't yet. Since I do have another frame in the works (hanging from my ceiling as well), I'll fix all my boo-boos on the next one.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

I have the same rear GTS axle, but the opposite relative to brake bias, is why I asked. But, I have larger Celica front disc. Had to remove the brake bias valve and install aggressive rear brake pads. Now the brakes are unbelievably good. And like your set-up, very little nose dive under braking. Davew

So, if I'm understanding you correctly - you had too much front brake, and you had to make changes to get more rear brake?

If so, that's what I'm saying. You want the brake effort stronger in the rear (the majority of the effort is biased towards the rear).

Assuming I am hearing you correctly.

Insurance renewed for another year. May go for the first joy ride of 2020 tomorrow.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

Yes, not enough rear axle braking. I would not have guessed that there would a big difference in brake balance between the two builds. I'm using the stock GTS 13/16" Dia. M/C and the front caliper has a 2" Dia. piston. Davew

I think we have both experienced the same thing. I, too, needed more braking on the rear. I'll go back and edit my post if I can.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

Hey Skinny, I just renewed for this year as well. I will look at your lsd video as I have a lsd pumpkin to add sometime. Hope all is well with you and family and stay safe.

LSD was such an awesome improvement, I have since put LSDs in all my other cars.

Fixing the running issue with new(er) plug wires, I needed to fabricate a new cover for the motor since the old plug boot holes were no longer needed:

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

Skinny G, The custom valley cover looks great Bonus points for the shaved cam covers. Consider installing a modified stock gasket, on the new valley cover, or making a gasket from thin pliable rubber/PVC sheet for the custom valley cover. Even a tight fitting cover allows water in, that fills the plug wells. I used window sill sealer sheet [water tight 40] . Should be able to get similar product at the local lumber yard. Davew

I debated using a seal with it, but decided that since I really don't drive it in the rain.....

Have you found it necessary on yours?

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

I try not to drive in the rain. I think my problem was just from washing the car. The rear two plug wells where completely full of water. this was with a cover that has both front and rear valley ends closed off. no real large open area into the valley. Plug wires come in from the front behind the cam gears. The only thing that saved my butt, was boot grease that prevent the spark plugs from grounding out. Yupper, water cooled plug wires Just sealing the top should be enough to shed the water off the rear of the engine.
davew