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PostPosted: April 29, 2013, 7:44 pm 
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Joined: January 14, 2006, 1:06 pm
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Location: Vista (north of San Diego CA)
KB58 wrote:
That aside, I'm currently dealing with a clutch issue, where it shifts perfectly fine when cold, but as it warms up, it starts grinding when going into reverse. Wait 3-4 hours for it to cool off and it shifts perfectly fine.


Kurt - I had a similar problem with my old Toyota truck. I replaced the clutch (it needed it) and the problem went away. The only thing I can think is that the friction disk was dragging against the flywheel. The transmission was tough to pull out and I think there was some seizing/binding of the disk hub on the shaft. Pressure plate would hold the disk OK, but the disk wouldn't back off all the way from the flywheel. It worked OK in forward gears with syncros, but just enough rubbing so the non syncro reverse would grind.

Like I said, that is speculation, but all I can think of.

John


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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 12:41 am 
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Kurt, Sorry if I've missed it, but what autocross class are you targeting for the Midlana?

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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 12:55 am 
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Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
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Location: SoCal
I have no idea - and to be honest, don't really care much. Whatever they put me in is fine, as the only reason I'd go is for testing out the vehicle dynamics. Part of that attitude comes from being done with autocross - once I tried a trackday event it was just about impossible to continue autocrossing, but that's just me. Hard to think past having to pull the drivetrain at the momeent, though :(

While the clutch was bought used, it was sent back to the mfg to be checked out and they said that it was fine, hence my reluctance to pull it unless I'm pretty sure it's an issue with either the clutch or pilot bushing... and I'm pretty sure that it is :(

Today I measured and confirmed that the clutch pedal and slave are moving the throwout lever the same amount whether it's hot or cold, so it's looking like it's got to come out. Booooo.

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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 9:07 am 
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Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
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Lonnie-S wrote:
... Bye the way, the unit on the passenger side of the front bay, sitting on the green sheet metal just behind the suspension, looks like the windshield wiper motor to me. Is that right? If so, how's it working being that far from the wipers?...


Yes it's the wiper motor. It has a spyral-wound wire "thing" that is pushed and pulled the length of that aluminum tube. Gears at each wiper pick off the back-and-forth movement and Bob's your uncle. It's a knockoff of a Triumph wiper setup, purchaced through a hot rod outlet.

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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 11:43 am 
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Quote:
so it's looking like it's got to come out. Booooo.


I vote you drive it until it's easier to find the problem, like next winter.
:cheers:

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PostPosted: May 1, 2013, 8:43 pm 
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Joined: December 12, 2012, 8:21 am
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Location: Northesat CT
It looks like your shift cables are pretty clear of your exhaust, but I really only see one, so maybe the one that get's you in reverse is close? I have seen these cables heat up and expand and cause poor shifting, so just make sure it's not that.


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PostPosted: May 1, 2013, 9:07 pm 
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Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
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Location: SoCal
The two cables are right next to each other. Like you said, they're well clear of high heat, though do run alongside the coolant lines down the center of the car.

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PostPosted: May 1, 2013, 9:42 pm 
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Location: Northesat CT
KB58 wrote:
The two cables are right next to each other. Like you said, they're well clear of high heat, though do run alongside the coolant lines down the center of the car.

That could do it. Maybe give them an insulated wrap.


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PostPosted: September 6, 2013, 10:46 am 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 4:44 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Honestly it's a Honda. My stock 07 civic Si and my 04 RSX both grinded in reverse. I'd say just drive it. If its just reverse I wouldn't bother pulling anything for the reverse gear.

Plus, I'm waiting on videos. Hahaha.

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PostPosted: September 6, 2013, 1:29 pm 
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Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
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Location: SoCal
Briggs wrote:
Honestly it's a Honda. My stock 07 civic Si and my 04 RSX both grinded in reverse. I'd say just drive it. If its just reverse I wouldn't bother pulling anything for the reverse gear.

Plus, I'm waiting on videos. Hahaha.

Wow, old thread... a bit of an update:

The transmission "problem" was due to using a too-small master cylinder... doh! The transmission has straight-cut gears and dog-engagement, so it's not so much "just a Honda" any more.

The on-going issue has been a distinct and loud metallic "Bang" which happens whenever torque is suddently applied (or removed!) Finding it has proven difficult, but with a trackday coming up in about a month, it needs to be resolved.

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Both available from https://www.lulu.com/


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PostPosted: September 6, 2013, 1:33 pm 
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The on-going issue has been a distinct and loud metallic "Bang" which happens whenever torque is suddently applied


backlash in the transmission? Is your dog box a drag racing unit? That might have more backlash. You can hear this on motorcycles sometimes.

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Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.


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PostPosted: September 6, 2013, 1:52 pm 
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Maybe - I honestly don't know at this point. About all I can do is inspect everything for mechanical interference. The only thing external to the drivetrain that I can think of that would make the metallic banging in both power application and removal is perhaps a broken engine mount. If I shift "casual" it doesn't make any sound at all and only happens at higher power levels. The easy way to cause it is to drive along at about 3000 rpm in second gear. Getting onto the gas hard, or lifting off, both will cause the sound. I can understand it happening under power application, but also happening under power-removal is odd.

The sound is very metallic and clear, like it's on my side (forward side) of the drivetrain. It's like someone hitting the chassis with a hammer yet I see no sign of the engine hitting the frame (and how could the frame hit on power removal?)

If it's inside the transmission I'd expect the sound to be somewhat muffled - but as it is, it sounds like it's right behind me... maybe it is.

The plan is to remove the firewall and rig up the GoPro to record what's going on, but removing it is a PITA... and I know the bonehead designer...

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Both available from https://www.lulu.com/


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PostPosted: September 6, 2013, 3:11 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, WA
Great car you've built.

The clunk/bang sounds like it could be something shifting in the suspension, especially on the lower link. Or even a coil spring moving on it's seat. I would expect anything like that to be somewhat reproducible by jouncing the car while it's parked, so not very likely.

Is there any sort of limited slip or traction aid in your transmission's differential?


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PostPosted: September 9, 2013, 7:42 am 
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Joined: August 12, 2012, 6:38 pm
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Location: worcester county, Massachsetts
Kurt, your body panel are atached with 3/16 dome-head bilnd (pop-style) rivets correct? for the side panels, did you wrap the panels around the tubes at the bottom and top attachments, or just rivet the sides on flat?
good luck on the transmision noise issues.

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PostPosted: September 10, 2013, 1:10 am 
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Joined: June 3, 2013, 12:09 am
Posts: 29
Great build, impressive craftsmanship. Any tips, stories, lessons learned or experiences you would like to share from building this car ? Maybe a general conclusion.


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