LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently October 17, 2018, 10:38 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Forum rules


Welcome to The Builders Logs. This area is for showing your current build/your completed car. Please only create a thread if you are currently building a car/showing off a finished project. Please do not create any other topics in this forum; any other subject should be posted in the correct forum. Please also only create one thread per user per project.



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 52 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: April 29, 2013, 7:44 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 14, 2006, 1:06 pm
Posts: 802
Location: Vista (north of San Diego CA)
KB58 wrote:
That aside, I'm currently dealing with a clutch issue, where it shifts perfectly fine when cold, but as it warms up, it starts grinding when going into reverse. Wait 3-4 hours for it to cool off and it shifts perfectly fine.


Kurt - I had a similar problem with my old Toyota truck. I replaced the clutch (it needed it) and the problem went away. The only thing I can think is that the friction disk was dragging against the flywheel. The transmission was tough to pull out and I think there was some seizing/binding of the disk hub on the shaft. Pressure plate would hold the disk OK, but the disk wouldn't back off all the way from the flywheel. It worked OK in forward gears with syncros, but just enough rubbing so the non syncro reverse would grind.

Like I said, that is speculation, but all I can think of.

John


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 12:41 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 7, 2011, 12:17 am
Posts: 161
Location: Sandy, OR
Kurt, Sorry if I've missed it, but what autocross class are you targeting for the Midlana?

_________________
Regards, Ron


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 12:55 am 
Offline
Mid-Engined Maniac

Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
Posts: 5907
Location: SoCal
I have no idea - and to be honest, don't really care much. Whatever they put me in is fine, as the only reason I'd go is for testing out the vehicle dynamics. Part of that attitude comes from being done with autocross - once I tried a trackday event it was just about impossible to continue autocrossing, but that's just me. Hard to think past having to pull the drivetrain at the momeent, though :(

While the clutch was bought used, it was sent back to the mfg to be checked out and they said that it was fine, hence my reluctance to pull it unless I'm pretty sure it's an issue with either the clutch or pilot bushing... and I'm pretty sure that it is :(

Today I measured and confirmed that the clutch pedal and slave are moving the throwout lever the same amount whether it's hot or cold, so it's looking like it's got to come out. Booooo.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://www.midlana.com/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains, http://www.kimini.com/book_info/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 9:07 am 
Offline
Mid-Engined Maniac

Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
Posts: 5907
Location: SoCal
Lonnie-S wrote:
... Bye the way, the unit on the passenger side of the front bay, sitting on the green sheet metal just behind the suspension, looks like the windshield wiper motor to me. Is that right? If so, how's it working being that far from the wipers?...


Yes it's the wiper motor. It has a spyral-wound wire "thing" that is pushed and pulled the length of that aluminum tube. Gears at each wiper pick off the back-and-forth movement and Bob's your uncle. It's a knockoff of a Triumph wiper setup, purchaced through a hot rod outlet.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://www.midlana.com/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains, http://www.kimini.com/book_info/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 11:43 am 
Offline
The voice of reason
User avatar

Joined: January 10, 2008, 4:47 pm
Posts: 7551
Location: Massachusetts
Quote:
so it's looking like it's got to come out. Booooo.


I vote you drive it until it's easier to find the problem, like next winter.
:cheers:

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: May 1, 2013, 8:43 pm 
Offline

Joined: December 12, 2012, 8:21 am
Posts: 356
Location: Northesat CT
It looks like your shift cables are pretty clear of your exhaust, but I really only see one, so maybe the one that get's you in reverse is close? I have seen these cables heat up and expand and cause poor shifting, so just make sure it's not that.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: May 1, 2013, 9:07 pm 
Offline
Mid-Engined Maniac

Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
Posts: 5907
Location: SoCal
The two cables are right next to each other. Like you said, they're well clear of high heat, though do run alongside the coolant lines down the center of the car.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://www.midlana.com/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains, http://www.kimini.com/book_info/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: May 1, 2013, 9:42 pm 
Offline

Joined: December 12, 2012, 8:21 am
Posts: 356
Location: Northesat CT
KB58 wrote:
The two cables are right next to each other. Like you said, they're well clear of high heat, though do run alongside the coolant lines down the center of the car.

That could do it. Maybe give them an insulated wrap.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 6, 2013, 10:46 am 
Offline

Joined: August 11, 2012, 4:44 pm
Posts: 1419
Location: Charlotte, NC
Honestly it's a Honda. My stock 07 civic Si and my 04 RSX both grinded in reverse. I'd say just drive it. If its just reverse I wouldn't bother pulling anything for the reverse gear.

Plus, I'm waiting on videos. Hahaha.

_________________
28 years old, Welder and prior service (Army). Owner of 8Eight FAB (check me out on Instagram and Facebook @8EightFab). Currently building a square tube Car9 chassis, powered by a 2.3 duratec.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 6, 2013, 1:29 pm 
Offline
Mid-Engined Maniac

Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
Posts: 5907
Location: SoCal
Briggs wrote:
Honestly it's a Honda. My stock 07 civic Si and my 04 RSX both grinded in reverse. I'd say just drive it. If its just reverse I wouldn't bother pulling anything for the reverse gear.

Plus, I'm waiting on videos. Hahaha.

Wow, old thread... a bit of an update:

The transmission "problem" was due to using a too-small master cylinder... doh! The transmission has straight-cut gears and dog-engagement, so it's not so much "just a Honda" any more.

The on-going issue has been a distinct and loud metallic "Bang" which happens whenever torque is suddently applied (or removed!) Finding it has proven difficult, but with a trackday coming up in about a month, it needs to be resolved.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://www.midlana.com/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains, http://www.kimini.com/book_info/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 6, 2013, 1:33 pm 
Offline
The voice of reason
User avatar

Joined: January 10, 2008, 4:47 pm
Posts: 7551
Location: Massachusetts
Quote:
The on-going issue has been a distinct and loud metallic "Bang" which happens whenever torque is suddently applied


backlash in the transmission? Is your dog box a drag racing unit? That might have more backlash. You can hear this on motorcycles sometimes.

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 6, 2013, 1:52 pm 
Offline
Mid-Engined Maniac

Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
Posts: 5907
Location: SoCal
Maybe - I honestly don't know at this point. About all I can do is inspect everything for mechanical interference. The only thing external to the drivetrain that I can think of that would make the metallic banging in both power application and removal is perhaps a broken engine mount. If I shift "casual" it doesn't make any sound at all and only happens at higher power levels. The easy way to cause it is to drive along at about 3000 rpm in second gear. Getting onto the gas hard, or lifting off, both will cause the sound. I can understand it happening under power application, but also happening under power-removal is odd.

The sound is very metallic and clear, like it's on my side (forward side) of the drivetrain. It's like someone hitting the chassis with a hammer yet I see no sign of the engine hitting the frame (and how could the frame hit on power removal?)

If it's inside the transmission I'd expect the sound to be somewhat muffled - but as it is, it sounds like it's right behind me... maybe it is.

The plan is to remove the firewall and rig up the GoPro to record what's going on, but removing it is a PITA... and I know the bonehead designer...

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://www.midlana.com/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains, http://www.kimini.com/book_info/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 6, 2013, 3:11 pm 
Offline

Joined: August 14, 2008, 1:31 am
Posts: 48
Location: Vancouver, WA
Great car you've built.

The clunk/bang sounds like it could be something shifting in the suspension, especially on the lower link. Or even a coil spring moving on it's seat. I would expect anything like that to be somewhat reproducible by jouncing the car while it's parked, so not very likely.

Is there any sort of limited slip or traction aid in your transmission's differential?


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 9, 2013, 7:42 am 
Offline

Joined: August 12, 2012, 6:38 pm
Posts: 1892
Location: worcester county, Massachsetts
Kurt, your body panel are atached with 3/16 dome-head bilnd (pop-style) rivets correct? for the side panels, did you wrap the panels around the tubes at the bottom and top attachments, or just rivet the sides on flat?
good luck on the transmision noise issues.

_________________
My build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 10, 2013, 1:10 am 
Offline

Joined: June 3, 2013, 12:09 am
Posts: 29
Great build, impressive craftsmanship. Any tips, stories, lessons learned or experiences you would like to share from building this car ? Maybe a general conclusion.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 52 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY