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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 30, 2018, 9:37 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Trog wrote:
Street Trials update:


3 - 20PSI in the tires seems to have settled down the handling issues.

:yay:

4- What the hell is with all the rocks? My car interior looks like I've been driving in a quarry. Dang, I think I'll need to find me some mud flaps!
:rofl:

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PostPosted: March 31, 2018, 12:00 am 
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Trog wrote:
They don't need to:
http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-c ... -1.2620524


Unbelievable. What is the likelihood that these licenses are never faked? It's no wonder the traffic is so bad in your area.

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PostPosted: March 31, 2018, 7:00 am 
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4- What the hell is with all the rocks? My car interior looks like I've been driving in a quarry. Dang, I think I'll need to find me some mud flaps!
I know that feeling! After every autocross/track day, one of the first things I have to do with the Slotus is vacuum out all the gravel/crap that has found it's way inside the car in every compartment. I bet the car weighs 3 pounds more after every event. One morning at Moultrie, on the very old, dirty concrete there, I'm pretty sure the right front tossed a pizza box at my head. (Might have been a matchbook, but it sure looked like a pizza box to me...)

Congrats on the test drive!

:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: March 31, 2018, 8:39 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
"What the hell is with all the rocks"
Yupper!!! My shop-vac sits right next to the car. At the end of the driving season cleaning, even with mud flaps I have a nice collection of gravel under my seats.
Wait until you get to drive thru a thunder storm. It's all part of the fun of driving a Seven.
DaveW


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PostPosted: March 31, 2018, 5:39 pm 
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Joined: February 15, 2018, 8:32 pm
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Location: Vancouver, BC. Canada
Just returned from a 50-mile test run.

1- Found the 25-year old clutch cable to be very sticky this morning as the cutch pedal was very slow to return. After a few dozen strokes and a few miles later, it warmed up and returned to normal. I later cleaned up the solidified lubricant, and re-greased the cable/piston assembly with lithium grease. Feels better, with hope that sorts the issue.

2- I’ve got to do something about these carbs. I re-synched the pair and it seemed to reduce the off-idle stumble. However, there’s a horrible hesitation at 3300RPM during both steady state, and hard acceleration. I guess I’m going to have to learn how to tune DCOE’s!

3- The car literally stops traffic. Inside of 10-minutes, I received two purchase offers. Tempting as they were as I wouldn’t mind building a new Locost with more POWER!

I find myself constantly checking weather forecasts ….. LOL :lol:

Bikini top day:


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PostPosted: April 1, 2018, 1:19 am 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Okay - the point where the remaining stumble is occurring is right where the carbs come off the idle circuit & onto the mains. The "idle circuit" name is a bit of a misnomer, as it covers everything from dead idle to 3000-3500 rpm - the vast majority of running with DCOE's is on the idle circuit.

If it's running okay below that 3000-3500 rpm mark, you can ignore the idle circuit and just concentrate on the far simpler mains circuit. That's GOOD news!

You need to find out if it's lean or rich when it comes onto the mains. If you have access to a ColorTune, exhaust gas analyzer, or wideband O2 analyzer, that will make it easy. If not, it's back to the old tried & true shadetree mechanic's test. Clean the plugs so they're spotless, run the car hard, at the point where it's stumbling for a minute, then pull over and check the plugs again. If they're really pale grey and dusty, the mains are too lean, and if they're black & sooty, the mains are too rich.

If you have access to a place with a supply of Weber jets, some of 'em will let you try out several jet sets, buy the ones you need, and return the rest. It should only take 2 or 3 changes (maybe only one) to get it pretty darned close to right without any further tuning. The good news is that, on the lower mainland, there are still places that specialize in Webers & stock full supplies of DCOE jets. Here on the Island, well - good luck on that. We haven't even had a dynamometer on the Island for several years.

It may not be ideal, certainly not as good as an analyzer, but ol' time mechanics could get Webers 95% of the way to perfect just by checking the plugs & by the sound of the intake & engine.

That's how I'd start, anyway.

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PostPosted: April 1, 2018, 11:20 am 
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zetec7 wrote:
Okay - the point where the remaining stumble is occurring is right where the carbs come off the idle circuit & onto the mains. The "idle circuit" name is a bit of a misnomer, as it covers everything from dead idle to 3000-3500 rpm - the vast majority of running with DCOE's is on the idle circuit.

If it's running okay below that 3000-3500 rpm mark, you can ignore the idle circuit and just concentrate on the far simpler mains circuit. That's GOOD news!

You need to find out if it's lean or rich when it comes onto the mains. If you have access to a ColorTune, exhaust gas analyzer, or wideband O2 analyzer, that will make it easy. If not, it's back to the old tried & true shadetree mechanic's test. Clean the plugs so they're spotless, run the car hard, at the point where it's stumbling for a minute, then pull over and check the plugs again. If they're really pale grey and dusty, the mains are too lean, and if they're black & sooty, the mains are too rich.



I have a Gunsen Gastester which I've used in the past for FI calibration. Although I've generally used it to set idle mixture, I'll have to make some mods to use it under load.

http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4125/

I've checked the plugs in the past and the engine is indeed running lean. I see that a Weber "jet' kit is reasonably cheap, so I'll probably buy a set and go from there.....I've opened the carbs and noted my baseline:

Weber 40DCOE #151
Idle Jet: .45mm / F9
Main Jet: 1.15mm
Main Air Bleed: 2.0mm
Emulsion Tube: F11
Accel Pump Jet: .40mm
Venturi: 30mm

Can you recommend a shop in the Lower Mainland that stocks DCOE parts?

Cheers.


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PostPosted: April 2, 2018, 5:09 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, BC. Canada
Did some no-load testing today....with the Gunson warmed up and calibrated to free-air....readings below.

So, it looks like when tuned for best idle lean condition, existing main jets are resulting in too lean mixture at all revs above 3000.

Ideally, I would like to see a CO% around 5-5.3 (AFR 12.5) at full throttle.

New jets are on order.


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Last edited by Trog on April 2, 2018, 10:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: April 2, 2018, 9:56 pm 
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Overseas Auto on Main stocks Weber bits (or at least they used to). But, as I'm sure you're aware, it can get pricey when you have to get four of everything.


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PostPosted: April 2, 2018, 10:04 pm 
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^^^THAT'S the name I was trying to remember!

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http://zetec7.webs.com/


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PostPosted: April 3, 2018, 6:15 pm 
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Trog,

Do you know anyone that races or slaloms a car with DCOE's? If so, they'll likely have a small assortment of jets and some knowledge of how to set the carbs. Even the Mini guys usually have a DCOE on the engine and a box of jets in the trailer. See if you can borrow/try out some different jets before you purchase. If you can't find what you need locally, Dyrk at Classic Motor Works could easily help you out http://www.classicmotorworks.citymax.co ... 875856.htm

Good luck, Bill

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PostPosted: April 5, 2018, 9:08 am 
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Trog
After you get the carb tuning completed. You might want to look at adding a center brace to your bikini top. It will make a big improvement in reducing the flapper at speed. The cross tube behind the seats is a ideal spot to attach a "Tee" brace to support your top. If you would like a photo, let me know. DaveW


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PostPosted: April 5, 2018, 1:48 pm 
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I've found Weber jets and parts and even a knowledgeable guy or two at shops that do vintage VWs and dune buggies with Bug power.

I was about to say "Who the hell wants a bikini top that doesn't bounce around???" until I realized you meant for the car. :mrgreen:

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: April 5, 2018, 2:49 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
^^^ :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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http://zetec7.webs.com/


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PostPosted: April 5, 2018, 6:22 pm 
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davew wrote:
Trog
After you get the carb tuning completed. You might want to look at adding a center brace to your bikini top. It will make a big improvement in reducing the flapper at speed. The cross tube behind the seats is a ideal spot to attach a "Tee" brace to support your top. If you would like a photo, let me know. DaveW



Hey Dave,

Please post a photo of your brace details as no one likes a floppy bikini top! :D :D


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