LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently July 9, 2020, 9:26 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 266 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 14, 15, 16, 17, 18
Author Message
PostPosted: June 30, 2020, 8:25 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
Posts: 3110
Location: Summerville, SC
a.moore wrote:
TooBusy wrote:

I could have simply turned the OD to fit the tight space down by the oil line to the filter, but I needed flats to tighten it and thought it's going on a MG, might as well make a pretty octagon.
...........
Works like a champ now.




Do you have any experience mounting that brand of electric sender directly to the block?

I've had terrible luck with Autometer ones lasting when mounted like that. Vibration always killed them. I went mechanical on the Sprite but swore that if I ever use an electrical one again again, I'll remote mount the sender and use braided hose for electrical contact (or make sure the mounting clamp grounds it).


I did this on my 70 MGB years ago when the Bourdon tube went out in my original gauge and drove it about 20k miles before I sold the car.
My plan was to remote mount with a hose. I struggled with getting a happy ground even though it has a ground terminal.
If this one dies quickly, I'll machine a remote block that mounts to the firewall.

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 30, 2020, 8:57 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 5470
Location: West Chicago,IL
the vibration may have something to do with the natural resonances of the sender element and engine. I had replaced the senders in my '87 Aerostar twice in 100K+ miles with a similar setup. If it works for you Tommy, the go for it. Extra points for the octagon standoff. BTW, where did you get an 8 sided box wrench to tighten it? :mrgreen:

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 30, 2020, 9:56 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
Posts: 3110
Location: Summerville, SC
rx7locost wrote:
the vibration may have something to do with the natural resonances of the sender element and engine. I had replaced the senders in my '87 Aerostar twice in 100K+ miles with a similar setup. If it works for you Tommy, the go for it. Extra points for the octagon standoff. BTW, where did you get an 8 sided box wrench to tighten it? :mrgreen:


I made it for a 3/4 open end. :lol:

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 30, 2020, 10:37 am 
Offline

Joined: June 15, 2010, 8:29 am
Posts: 601
Location: Duxbury, MA USA
I dont know what material the adapter going into the block is for your oil pressure sensor. I had a setup very similar to yours on my 4AGE. The material was brass and it cracked from fatigue after about 300 miles. SO MUCH SMOKE since it urinated oil on the headers!!!! Happily near home...walked home and got a plug to seal the hole in the block and drove it home. No harm done except for a massive cleanup. Revised setup does not have any parts sitting out there on a cantilever and no issues in over 3000 miles. If you are steel for the adapter you are probably fine.
Paul

_________________
Parts left out cost nothing and cause no problems!!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 3, 2020, 8:42 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
Posts: 3110
Location: Summerville, SC
JPS Europa wrote:
I dont know what material the adapter going into the block is for your oil pressure sensor. I had a setup very similar to yours on my 4AGE. The material was brass and it cracked from fatigue after about 300 miles. SO MUCH SMOKE since it urinated oil on the headers!!!! Happily near home...walked home and got a plug to seal the hole in the block and drove it home. No harm done except for a massive cleanup. Revised setup does not have any parts sitting out there on a cantilever and no issues in over 3000 miles. If you are steel for the adapter you are probably fine.
Paul


It's a steel 1/4" NPT nipple. I've broken brass before as well.
Today I'll look at two possibilities. First, is there a simple way to add a bracket to triangulate the extension. Second, can I make a simple block that mounts the sender to the chassis for ground and plumb with rubber hose.

Also on the to do list for today is a few coats of satin black on the dash. I'd like to have a finish with little to no orange peel because I really don't want to cut and buff.
With that in mind, spray can all the way. I get better atomization with a spray can than I do with any of my spray guns.

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 7, 2020, 9:06 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
Posts: 3110
Location: Summerville, SC
Status update for the past couple of days.
1. I didn't do anything about the oil pressure sender standoff. Got distracted.

What I did do was play with exhaust and sheet metal.

Exhaust. I know the Thrush glasspack will be obnoxious for everyday driving, but it is very free flowing AND meets our clubs noise requirement, so I will have a place in my arsenal.
For everyday use my ears want something a bit quieter, so in true 70's vibe...... The Hush Thrush
Pie cuts are my new joy. I should have used TIG, but was out of Argon, so MIG and Metal finish for the win.

Attachment:
thrush 1.jpg
thrush 1.jpg [ 151.85 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]

Attachment:
thrush 3.jpg
thrush 3.jpg [ 61.44 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]



Next up sheet metal. If you recall I had rough formed the body panels a while back and stored them in the shed while I did more mechanical work. Now it's time to make them truly fit and cut the rest of the holes.
I had to enlarge the front UCA mount hole to go over the headlight posts.
Had to enlarge the front LCA mount hole to clear the steering rack.
Had to create a hole for the shock to pass through.
Lastly make a hole for the exhaust to exit.
The driver's side was hole saws, tin snips, and file work to get the shapes and positions.
Attachment:
dr panel 1.jpg
dr panel 1.jpg [ 105.77 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]

Attachment:
dr panel 2.jpg
dr panel 2.jpg [ 75.32 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]

Attachment:
dr panel 3.jpg
dr panel 3.jpg [ 101.12 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]


When I was happy with the fit, the driver's side became a template for the passengers side. Marked the holes with a sharpie, cut close freehand with the plasma cutter, then filed to smooth with the coarse rasp.
Attachment:
pass panel 1.jpg
pass panel 1.jpg [ 97.53 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]

Attachment:
pass panel 2.jpg
pass panel 2.jpg [ 88.98 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]


3 hours on the driver's side was replicated in about 30 minutes on the passengers side.
Attachment:
pass panel 3.jpg
pass panel 3.jpg [ 119.23 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]


Then about an hour of hammer and dolly work to round over the larger openings.
Attachment:
pass panel 4.jpg
pass panel 4.jpg [ 87.63 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]


Out of image space, so I need to add another post ...

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 7, 2020, 9:14 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
Posts: 3110
Location: Summerville, SC
Yesterday was work on the cockpit. I needed to rivet the forward bulkhead and shut panels over the foot wells, then get after final fitting of the tunnel panels.
Like the body panels, they were only rough fitted when I made them a while back.

Attachment:
bh1.jpg
bh1.jpg [ 150.35 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]


Gauges are in the black satin painted dash and I've started bundling the wiring into system groups.
Attachment:
dash 3.jpg
dash 3.jpg [ 158.11 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]


Now you can see the dash, doghouse, and tunnel mailbox in their final form.
Attachment:
dash 2.jpg
dash 2.jpg [ 128.78 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]


Aluminum looks so nice it will be a shame to cover it up, but I believe I'll put in some closed loop carpet if I can source it locally / easily.
Attachment:
bh 2.jpg
bh 2.jpg [ 150.49 KiB | Viewed 92 times ]


It's very quickly (at this point) starting to look like a car.

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 7, 2020, 12:50 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 786
Location: Charlotte, NC
It looks great! The placement of the shifter will be very nice for spirited driving.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 7, 2020, 2:11 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
Posts: 1087
Location: Seattle area
Good progress Tommy! The effort with the hammer/dolly on the panel openings really paid off.

_________________
Larry in Seattle


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 7, 2020, 7:17 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 23, 2010, 2:40 am
Posts: 1207
Tommy, great work as always and your build speed is something to behold. Makes me feel like I'm moving in slow motion.

And I like how your painted dash turned out.
TooBusy wrote:
So if not leather, then my options become brushed aluminum, painted or wrapped.
I grabbed my sanding block and went to town. Nice long straight strokes to give a brushed finish. Beauty!!!!
Then I took it out in the sunlight and nearly went blind. 8)

Brushed is out.

The sanding also makes the first step for paint, so I think satin black paint is the choice for me. If I don't like it there's always wrap and leather. :wink:

3 coats of acid etching primer. It wants to dry overnight before wet sanding. That gives me time to move on to another project.
Which brand primer and "satin black" paint did you use? Rattle can or gun? Any dash paint suggestions other than what's in your posts?

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 9, 2020, 8:53 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
Posts: 3110
Location: Summerville, SC
seattletom wrote:
Tommy, great work as always and your build speed is something to behold. Makes me feel like I'm moving in slow motion.

And I like how your painted dash turned out.
TooBusy wrote:
So if not leather, then my options become brushed aluminum, painted or wrapped.
I grabbed my sanding block and went to town. Nice long straight strokes to give a brushed finish. Beauty!!!!
Then I took it out in the sunlight and nearly went blind. 8)

Brushed is out.

The sanding also makes the first step for paint, so I think satin black paint is the choice for me. If I don't like it there's always wrap and leather. :wink:

3 coats of acid etching primer. It wants to dry overnight before wet sanding. That gives me time to move on to another project.
Which brand primer and "satin black" paint did you use? Rattle can or gun? Any dash paint suggestions other than what's in your posts?


Hey Tom,
Rattle can all the way. I used Rustoleum because I've had success with it in the past.
The primer is sandable and goes on well.
The paint, you know the drill, multiple light coats to get coverage, then a heavier coat to wet out.
This is far from perfect as I did it outdoors, so Saharan dust in the finish.

If you have a good auto paint store nearby, you can get 2k paint in a can for about $20 and get real auto paint quality finish.

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 266 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 14, 15, 16, 17, 18

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY