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PostPosted: April 12, 2016, 5:48 pm 
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a.moore wrote:
a.moore wrote:
So far (knock on wood) the car has been pretty reliable.


Unbeknownst to me the circa 1987 differential bushings are diehard readers of LocostUSA.com. Apparently they plotted against me and decided to rub my previous statement in my face.

A good launch on hot slicks and the differential was free along with all of the internals of the driver side halfshaft CV joint:
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Everything is repaired and the car is back in action but it makes me kick myself for not replacing them during the build. Then again they were absolutely awful to remove* so that may have been motivation enough. Fortunately the aftermarket polyurethane ones went in much easier.

I also noticed some excess movement in the engine. I didn't have to look very hard to find the cause - when I removed the top bolt of the driver's side mount, part of the mount came with it.

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There was also some cracking near a weld at the bottom of the mount. I welded the cracks as a temporary measure but I'll have to design a new mount one of these days. There are fewer constraints in that area now that the stock intake is gone so it should be pretty easy.

I'm also going to paint the new ones gray. The black paint made it impossible to spot the crack until it was huge.

*The 12 ton shop press was breaking a sweat - people on the Miata boards removing them with a gear puller are either full of crap or they're King Kong


Very old news I missed, but you are missing the stop washers. They are used on the miata also.


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PostPosted: April 12, 2016, 7:26 pm 
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Huh never realized the RX7 used those as well.

While we're talking pressure, you can also go the other way....


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PostPosted: April 13, 2016, 7:58 am 
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Sorry about that. You probably didn’t see this topic or post #6. I don't know where all the old info went. I had to google to find it but I knew it was in there somewhere.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=130224

The easy way requires no press at all. They literally flop out on their own. The bushings are vulcanized to the metal casing and center pin. All it takes is a hand held torch to get them going and keep them going until the fire is self-sustaining. Leaves you are perfectly smooth casing and pin. Makes a lot of black smoke though and it takes a few minutes per bushing. Set over a trash can or pan to catch the burning tar.

Japanese motorbike racing teams used similar hydroforming tools to make custom expansion chambers track side in the 70s/80s. They’d get a calculated pattern based on the area of the power curve they wanted to improve, to cut out of flat stock, weld, then pump it up and fit pipe ends. I don't remember if it was water or oil they used.

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