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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 12, 2016, 5:48 pm 
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a.moore wrote:
a.moore wrote:
So far (knock on wood) the car has been pretty reliable.


Unbeknownst to me the circa 1987 differential bushings are diehard readers of LocostUSA.com. Apparently they plotted against me and decided to rub my previous statement in my face.

A good launch on hot slicks and the differential was free along with all of the internals of the driver side halfshaft CV joint:
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Everything is repaired and the car is back in action but it makes me kick myself for not replacing them during the build. Then again they were absolutely awful to remove* so that may have been motivation enough. Fortunately the aftermarket polyurethane ones went in much easier.

I also noticed some excess movement in the engine. I didn't have to look very hard to find the cause - when I removed the top bolt of the driver's side mount, part of the mount came with it.

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There was also some cracking near a weld at the bottom of the mount. I welded the cracks as a temporary measure but I'll have to design a new mount one of these days. There are fewer constraints in that area now that the stock intake is gone so it should be pretty easy.

I'm also going to paint the new ones gray. The black paint made it impossible to spot the crack until it was huge.

*The 12 ton shop press was breaking a sweat - people on the Miata boards removing them with a gear puller are either full of crap or they're King Kong


Very old news I missed, but you are missing the stop washers. They are used on the miata also.


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PostPosted: April 12, 2016, 7:26 pm 
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Huh never realized the RX7 used those as well.

While we're talking pressure, you can also go the other way....


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PostPosted: April 13, 2016, 7:58 am 
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Sorry about that. You probably didn’t see this topic or post #6. I don't know where all the old info went. I had to google to find it but I knew it was in there somewhere.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=130224

The easy way requires no press at all. They literally flop out on their own. The bushings are vulcanized to the metal casing and center pin. All it takes is a hand held torch to get them going and keep them going until the fire is self-sustaining. Leaves you are perfectly smooth casing and pin. Makes a lot of black smoke though and it takes a few minutes per bushing. Set over a trash can or pan to catch the burning tar.

Japanese motorbike racing teams used similar hydroforming tools to make custom expansion chambers track side in the 70s/80s. They’d get a calculated pattern based on the area of the power curve they wanted to improve, to cut out of flat stock, weld, then pump it up and fit pipe ends. I don't remember if it was water or oil they used.

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PostPosted: November 4, 2018, 9:09 am 
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a.moore wrote:
When I originally assembled the fuel tank I used regular high pressure fuel hose to run the pump to the bulkhead fitting on the tank. After a few weeks the hose had softened from being submerged but still seemed fine. Then I stumbed upon Cory's post here and became paranoid that the hose would eventually rupture and leave me stranded.

This past week I opened the tank and replaced the hose with a piece of SAE 30R10 hose from FRSport.com.

Why am I posting this? Well in the process I had to chisel away at the aircraft fuel tank sealant I previously used to seal the manhole cover. Talk about a pain in the butt to remove but on the plus side it appears to work very well as there were no signs of weeping or leaking. I would highly recommend the stuff to anyone looking to create a fuel tight seal.

Plus I had almost a full tank of gas so I had to get rid of it somehow and it gave me a chance to test out my homemade camera mount made from a 1 3/4" line clamp around the roll hoop. (sorry that the video is kind of boring - one of those "you had to be there" moments)




The first version of the ignition module is almost complete as well. I just need to hook it to the ECU and I should be ready to test.

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Which Coil drivers did you used?
BIP979 or the alternatives. I need to modify my MS to drive my coil.
Shipping cost from DIY Autotune is prohibitive for one BIP 373.
I can get alternatives from Newark Electronics (Premier Farnell) shipped for free, but I have no electronics knowledge/experience.
Thanks in advance.
AA


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PostPosted: November 4, 2018, 1:48 pm 
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I used four of these: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/51 ... 036P3-F085

When I did the math for the current requirements for the stock Duratec coils, the BIP373 wasn't rated high enough. The IGBTs above do not have thermal protection (the BIP373s do).

I can't speak for the current Megasquirt kits as I haven't really followed them in several years but the ones from a few years ago had issues with ground noise if the igniters were in the case. I was also unsure what the board's traces were able to carry in terms of current. Both of these unknowns lead me to build the external igniter module.

As my lucky typically works, JBPerf released a board to do exactly what I needed after I had built mine: http://jbperf.com/quad_ign_inj/index.html

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