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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2013 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I guess i might as well jump in and start my build thread. I have completed my table, bought the Gibbs book, bought a T-Bird LSD diff, bought the tubing, and got a Miller 140 for Christmas so i am committed. I have been lurking for about 4 years and now i have begun....

My build is going to be as follows:
Haynes Roadster modified for T-bird IRS instead of Sierra
BMW M42 engine from a 318 with 5 speed gear box
T-bird IRS probably going to need the FFR half shafts to narrow rear track (i couldn't figure out how to make the BMW stuff work well)
SN95 Mustang spindles converted with FFR adaptors for double wishbone suspension from Strut type
the rest of it i will make it up as i go but hope to keep it as simple and practical as possible to increase the likelihood of completion

i cut my first few tubes and laid it out. i cut a few slightly long by ~2mm (better than short) so i will have to correct before i weld anything together. The front "hoop" has me pretty psyched out as it seems pretty complex but i hope to tackle it this weekend.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 7:30 pm 
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Uhhh, that ladder ain't part of the frame, is it???

Looks like a Guinness on the build table, so that's a good start.

OK, OK, enough goofing around... Good luck with your build, sounds like you've got a good plan worked out. I hope things go smoothly for you. Keep the pictures coming, and keep us posted on your progress!

:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:25 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Welcome to the Locost Zoo. The critters are very friendly here.

That's a good start on the chassis too. I've got the Miller 140 and I am very happy with it. Others have it as well. The general feeling is that the 0.023 wire works better for most of us on these light tubes and sheet, but you may feel the larger wire is the way to go for you. The only way to know is do some samples yourself and see what feels best.

Cheers,

Lonnie

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 12:20 pm 
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Location: Park Hills, KY
If you don't mind me asking, how much were you able to get that engine and trans for? I've been watching for 318's locally and not seeing much in the way of whole cars... are you using the BMW electronics or megasquirt?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 2:55 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I was considering using the ladder instead of the front hoop, not a good idea? Yes it's Guinness, a recent study showed it's not just for breakfast anymore :)

I didn't even consider the smaller wire, thanks for the tip. Is there a brand of wire you prefer?

As for the 318, I am getting it from a long time friend that owns a BMW and Porsche shop. Lots of E30 guys ditch the M42 for the M20 or M50 6 cylinder engines so they are pretty available. Go to www.E30tech.com and look in the classifieds or there is an m42 forum that you could check. I havent picked up the motor yet but I will post dimensions and weights when I do. I plan to use the 318 DME.

I will be slammed at work for the next 3 weeks producing all of the year end payroll reports. I might try to pick up some more of the parts since I will need them before I get too far

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 4:25 pm 
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Quote:
Guinness, a recent study showed it's not just for breakfast anymore

Yep, you'll do just fine... You might even be a candidate for Team Slotus! :mrgreen:
:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 7:19 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Uhhh, that ladder ain't part of the frame, is it???

Looks like a Guinness on the build table, so that's a good start.

OK, OK, enough goofing around... Good luck with your build, sounds like you've got a good plan worked out. I hope things go smoothly for you. Keep the pictures coming, and keep us posted on your progress!

:cheers:
JDK


Gee Whiz JD, the ladder is for takin' pictures.

Al

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Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2391
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 7:56 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Mnot wrote:
. . .
I didn't even consider the smaller wire, thanks for the tip. Is there a brand of wire you prefer?
. . .


ER70S-6 from Washington Alloy (http://www.weldingwire.com/company.aspx) is one I've had good success with. There is a whole family of ER70S-n welding wires with slightly different properties such as ER70S-3, ER70S-7 and so on. It's more of a specification rather than a brand. Miller (Hobart), Lincoln and several others all have versions of this family of welding wire.

Most likely, your local welding supply shop will stock this family of wire from some quality vendor. You can get small. 2lb spools of a couple and try them out. Your local welding shop can be an excellent source of information and guidance. Don't be afraid to tell them you're just starting out and bring them samples of what your welding. My local shop actually let me try out some different wire formulations using their machines and wire, but welding on my samples.

Learning good practices for joint preparation and cleanliness is really important. There is some bad information out there on the Internet, but also a lot of good stuff too. Here is a "Good Ol' Boy" who really knows how to weld although he does not always show a lot of the prep steps, but he does know them and illustrates them sometimes ==> http://www.youtube.com/user/weldingtipsandtricks

Try the Miller Welds site too ==> http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/video_library/

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 10:16 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Thanks Lonnie, I watched the Miller videos several times hoping to speed up my learning curve.

A build question....

I am building a Haynes roadster but I am intimidated by the radiator hoop or front hoop. I noticed the mcsorley plans all use a more simple trapezoid design. How important is it that I stay true to the Gibbs design? I am using different suspension than Gibbs but will use similar suspension points +/-

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 11:55 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
i definitely need help with the front hoop (ff1-ff4). i cut the top and bottom rails then cut the "bend" in the vertical pieces and then tried to figure out the compound angles to tie it all together. it is the last part that i failed miserably. i kept trying to tweak the angles until i was left with a pile of shavings and a smaller ego. any insight on this step is much appreciated. If i were to keep it all on the vertical plane instead of tilting back 75mm, what would be affected?

-gavin

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 4:54 am 
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Location: Phoenix arizona
An easier approach is take one peice of steel, instead of cutting and joining the 2 vertical peices simply cut out a small wedge thru 3 sides only and bend and weld once the desired angle is made, taking a peice of flat wood , or your build table, make a jig placing top and bottom peices , securing them , use wooden blocks to space the lower vertical tube off the base , the book will tell you the ammount needed, once the vertical tubes are ready simply lay them on top and using a sharpie mark where to cut..now allow an extra 1/4 in top and bottom to play with, cut tube ends ..grind carefully till they fit..this is the hardest part of the frame , take your time.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:00 am 
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I was thinking it was 75mm or 3 inches that you will need to space the lower horizontal tube off the flat surface and as memory serves me I was correct. Once you have those secured its a much easier task to build this on a flat surface


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 9:19 am 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Yes, it is 75mm offset. i found the amendments to the the Haynes book which has a guide to the front frame (thanks K_Boyer). the guide describes the angles in small steps which now makes sense. i was trying to hold FF3/4 up to FF1/4 on the jig and draw the angle onto them and then cut it with a cut off wheel. it didn't work... not even close. i will try again tonight using the guide and my new 4x6 bandsaw from HF.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 2:49 pm 
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You're doing well, and a Team Slotus invite means you also have the right attitude. IMO it's always best to stay as close to the plans as possible, unless you have a really compelling reason not to. Degree of difficulty should not be a compelling reason. You can do it. Wayne is right, this is the trickiest part of the frame.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:52 am 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Well, my scrap metal bucket is a bit heavier but I did it.

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