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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 12, 2013, 9:40 pm 
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Location: Seattle area
And also the dreaded eBay!

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PostPosted: July 13, 2013, 12:35 am 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
I suspect most of us are looking at "low cost" in the rear view mirror... :drive:

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/


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PostPosted: July 13, 2013, 10:15 am 
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I suspect most of us are looking at "low cost" in the rear view mirror...

Guilty, Yr. Honor!
I see the contradictions in my own actions quite often. I spend 1200 bucks on shocks and springs and then I buy the cheaper hood pins to save 59 cents... Duhhh...

:cheers:

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 13, 2013, 8:27 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Quote:
I suspect most of us are looking at "low cost" in the rear view mirror...

Guilty, Yr. Honor!
I see the contradictions in my own actions quite often. I spend 1200 bucks on shocks and springs and then I buy the cheaper hood pins to save 59 cents... Duhhh...

:cheers:



Oh ain't that the way it goes! Then there is the 300 buck pair of webers and the 450 buck worth of jets, E-tubes, throats and velocity stacks :BH:


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PostPosted: July 13, 2013, 10:57 pm 
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
They are definitely Low-Cost when compared to buying a ready built one.

How low depends upon your own personal goals.

They definitely aren't 250£ of Low Cost

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
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PostPosted: July 14, 2013, 1:03 pm 
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250 pounds hahahahahahahahahahahaha! Only if you`re rockin`Ronnie Champion and even then I don`t think I`d by a used car from him, HA!


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PostPosted: July 15, 2013, 9:16 am 
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Well, to be honest, we really don't build Ron's Locost. We don't purchase our tube from a salvage yard. And we almost always buy new brakelines, tires, wheels, etc. We buy new bucket seats rather than build bench seats. I'd like to see someone try to build to the spirit of "The book" building from reclaimed materials rather than buying new. Ron picked up scraps of steel tubing from the dumpsters. Heck, he even used aluminum cut from a panel van for paneling the sides.

I bet someone today with enough resources for salveged materials, could build a similar locost for around $1K USD.

I thought I was doing good at re-using many parts from my donor but I still wanted a like-new car so used new brake rotors, pads, brake lines (both hard and flex), radiator and hoses, etc.... I came in around $5K USD not including any rebuild costs. I know I could do much better.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: July 15, 2013, 10:27 am 
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Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
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Location: Novato, CA
I don't have shocks and springs yet, and still need the driveshaft shortened, but I've stuck to my budget for the past two years and I'm under $3500 at this point. I bought the metal new, and that was my biggest expense to date. New brake lines and pads are recommended in the book, so I did that, but just about everything is off my donor, including wheels and tires. I am building a bench seat, still looking for foam and covering. Some parts were birthday or Christmas presents, like the nose, steering wheel, taillights, and roll bar, so that helped. I don't expect to have a like-new car when I'm done, more like a well-maintained older car.


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PostPosted: July 15, 2013, 10:34 am 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
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I am building a bench seat, still looking for foam and covering.

Take a look at Craigslist. Around here, I can always find a leather couch or chair in the "free" section. With the couch, there should be plenty of covering and stuffing for a bench seat.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: March 16, 2016, 3:02 pm 
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Well I've been on the road for a few years now and still lovin' it. I decide last year to add a roll bar and I don't think it ruined the looks too badly. Next thing is to replace the John Deere wheels, I'm search now. I'll update again when I've found some.


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PostPosted: May 12, 2016, 12:16 am 
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I just noticed I've been on this forum for ten years.....wow!


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PostPosted: May 12, 2016, 9:21 am 
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dfdahl wrote:
I just noticed I've been on this forum for ten years.....wow!
So where's the party? :mrgreen:

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: June 3, 2018, 1:52 pm 
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So 2018 now and I'm working on my webers again. Running seriously rich and I have those dreaded stumbles webers are noted for. I'm running a large port age and am using 34mm chokes. I'm thinking of going to 30mm chokes but am not sure on a large port engine. Any weber gurus out there want to chime in?


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PostPosted: June 3, 2018, 3:25 pm 
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Got rid of my John Deere wheels but still don't wires.


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PostPosted: June 3, 2018, 4:09 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
If it's any help, if the Weber "stumbles" you mention amount to a huge, off-idle flat spot, the usual cause is a lack of sufficient progression holes. The only solution until now has been to run the idle circuit massively rich to try to compensate for initial off-idle leanness, just to get it to run at all. Most have found that, once they're off the idle circuit (say, 3,000 rpm or so), it all works fine. Or, at least, it's easy to tune the main circuit to a proper stoichometric mixture.

It seems that engines with very sudden vacuum changes (large throttle plates, short intake runners, 4-valve DOHC heads, etc.) are the most susceptible to this condition. I'm running a Zetec, with a manifold with only 2" runners. The conventional wisdom in the UK (where such engines are common in Locosts) is that more progression holes are essential to cure this problem. The holes can't simply be drilled, willy-nilly, without totally destroying the carbs' effectiveness - they must be absolutely precise in size & location. We're talking .0001" accuracy here.

All sorts of different solutions have been tried, using every Weber part available, dyno testing, etc., with an absolutely zero success rate.

The Alfa aficionados in Europe have started using 4-progression hole 45DCOE's with some reported success. However, the Zetec, which apparently breathes much better (i.e., a much bigger gulp of air at the slightest throttle opening, due to it's extremely efficient flow characteristics), needs more.

To that end, Weber, in concert with Webcon in the UK, have designed 5-progression-hole DCOE's specifically to cure this problem for the Zetec, and it's anticipated it may be the cure for other engines with similar carburation issues. I just bought a brand new pair of these 45's from Webcon, and expect that I will be free of the off-idle stumble (in Zetecs, this is reported to be so bad that they backfire, buck, & often stall completely, at the first millimeter of throttle opening...unless the idle circuit is blubberingly rich). The extra progression holes (standard 152 series 45's commonly only have 3 progression holes, but it seems 5 are required) supposedly smooth the fuel delivery so that the idle circuit can be kept nice and lean, yet supply all the fuel needed for proper progression all the way through the idle circuit.

Here's a link, if you're interested: http://www.webcon.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=15161

Just a thought....

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/


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