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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:11 pm 
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Wish I could say so. The standard reply I get each week now is Next Friday. Have not even asked this week yet. Hopefully before the middle of next month.. Who knows..

I think they are close, but very busy with many builds. Thats the price you pay for choosing a popular builder that cannot manage the work load.

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-- Push the pedal on the right, the one in the middle is for wussies ---
- Link to build blog- http://BluLi7ard.blogspot.com/


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 12:19 am 
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Spenny wrote:
I havent found an R1 MNR diary anywhere, if anyone knows where it is I'd like to know.



And the reason you can't type 'R1 MNR diary' into Google is what?


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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 7:20 pm 
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Location: Rochester, NY
A little more progress. Told you this would be slow!
I finished running brake line from front to rear.
Attachment:
File comment: Brake pipes at rear of tunnel
brake pipes rear of tunnel.jpg
brake pipes rear of tunnel.jpg [ 230.14 KiB | Viewed 1426 times ]


Installed pedals.
Attachment:
File comment: Pedal box installed
pedals 2.jpg
pedals 2.jpg [ 221.86 KiB | Viewed 1426 times ]

After fettling the aluminum bulkhead panel, fitted and installed Master cylinders.
Then ran the front brake pipe.
Attachment:
bulkead MCs brake pipes.jpg
bulkead MCs brake pipes.jpg [ 279.52 KiB | Viewed 1426 times ]


Also installed the steering column which is basically a Ford Sierra inner column modified with quick release boss. I ordered the kit with the flappy paddles, it looks well thought out.
Attachment:
steering column and paddle shifters.jpg
steering column and paddle shifters.jpg [ 247.33 KiB | Viewed 1426 times ]


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 7:47 pm 
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Location: Rochester, NY
This weekend I was able to run the fuel hard lines front to rear, this is from the rear - feed from the bottom obviously and fed the return around the the top.
Attachment:
fuel feed and return at rear.jpg
fuel feed and return at rear.jpg [ 183.33 KiB | Viewed 1376 times ]

Attachment:
fuel lines from rear.jpg
fuel lines from rear.jpg [ 243.23 KiB | Viewed 1376 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: fuel lines from engine bay
fuel lines from front.jpg
fuel lines from front.jpg [ 289.16 KiB | Viewed 1376 times ]


I then turned my attention to the engine. The R1 needs a baffle plate in the sump in order to prevent oil starvation. Here are the before and after pics.
Attachment:
File comment: R1 bottom end before fitting baffle.
R1 bottom end before baffle plate.jpg
R1 bottom end before baffle plate.jpg [ 278.85 KiB | Viewed 1376 times ]
Attachment:
File comment: ...and after with baffle in place
R1 Baffle plate fitted.jpg
R1 Baffle plate fitted.jpg [ 252.21 KiB | Viewed 1376 times ]


I mounted the engine to the subframe fia the engines upper mountings, but I need to either tap and helicoil the 4x rear lugs or find long studs and through bolt all the way. Also I dont have a socket to remove the front sprocket. Nevertheless I offered the engine up to check clearances and get a feel for how to run the final fuel lines and how the electrics should be run.
Attachment:
File comment: engine bay from above
engine bay from above.jpg
engine bay from above.jpg [ 315.69 KiB | Viewed 1376 times ]
Attachment:
engine2.jpg
engine2.jpg [ 275.53 KiB | Viewed 1376 times ]

The output shaft is actually quite a bit higher than I expected, see below view looking forward through the transmission tunnel.
Attachment:
File comment: Engine as viewed from transmission tunnel.
engine looking thru tunnel.jpg
engine looking thru tunnel.jpg [ 265.02 KiB | Viewed 1376 times ]

I've also started to pull apart the wiring loom, not much to see there!
Thats all for now.
Paul


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 11:30 am 
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Location: snow city - it's wet!
What angle is your R1 engine mounted at? I'm assuming from the pictures that the bottom of the oil pan is mounted parallel to the ground?

Also that "cradle" looks like an interesting take on mounting your engine. I assume that's the MNR supplied solution?

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 12:07 pm 
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Location: Rochester, NY
yes the pan is parallel to the ground, maybe 1/2" below the chassis rail. You are correct the cradle is the MNR solution - sure makes for getting the engine in pretty easy. The motor is well balanced in the cradle so two people can lift and lower it in with no problem, I thought it was a neat idea.


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 12:18 pm 
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Location: central Arkansas
How are you going to connect the driveshaft? Double-row chain coupler?


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 12:41 pm 
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Location: Rochester, NY
TRX wrote:
How are you going to connect the driveshaft? Double-row chain coupler?

Here is a typical prop adapter as specified, I'm ordering one up from MNR which i should have remembered before, it replaces the sprocket (mounted on the splines and held with the same 36mm nut) and has the same hole pattern as the prop flange.
Attachment:
prop adapter.jpg
prop adapter.jpg [ 11.32 KiB | Viewed 1332 times ]


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 2:14 pm 
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Location: Seattle, Wa
1 thought for your pedal box (looks similar to mine): I ended up moving my throttle pedal all the way over against the tranny tunnel; I kept hitting both the gas and brake at the same time. I just drilled through the tranny tunnel and got a longer bolt, then used washers to push the throttle pedal as far over as possible.

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 8:39 pm 
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first350 wrote:
1 thought for your pedal box (looks similar to mine): I ended up moving my throttle pedal all the way over against the tranny tunnel; I kept hitting both the gas and brake at the same time. I just drilled through the tranny tunnel and got a longer bolt, then used washers to push the throttle pedal as far over as possible.

Thanks Peter, I had your mod in mind when placing the pedal box, I expect I will be doing the same, I moved mine a little more to the left anticipating I'd need more room for the throttle.


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 11:12 pm 
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Location: Seattle, Wa
Spenny wrote:
first350 wrote:
1 thought for your pedal box (looks similar to mine): I ended up moving my throttle pedal all the way over against the tranny tunnel; I kept hitting both the gas and brake at the same time. I just drilled through the tranny tunnel and got a longer bolt, then used washers to push the throttle pedal as far over as possible.

Thanks Peter, I had your mod in mind when placing the pedal box, I expect I will be doing the same, I moved mine a little more to the left anticipating I'd need more room for the throttle.


almost forgot...once I installed the interior plastic panels, my shoe gets hung-up on when operating the clutch (my shoes slides on the plastic panel, and the rubber sole attaches to the panel and TQ's my foot). With the gas pedal I do the same thing against the tranny tunnel...but since the tranny tunnel is Powdercoated, my shoe slides freely. I plan to get some felt/carpet tape and put it on the plastic panel around the clutch. (I had thought about just leaving that plastic panel off b/c it's give a little more foot room and I also wouldn't have this issue...but there's a diagonal bar in the chassis around the clutch pedal and I think my foot could get stuck on that too.

If I had to do over, I'd probably pound out the tranny tunnel side to get another 1" of room (my tranny has a little extra space). As it is now, the gas is easy to operate, but the clutch and brake pedals are a bit close. FWIW I also have size 13 shoes :ack: (I'm wearing my Puma driving shoes, so they're as narrow as I can get)

keep posting updates - I love seeing other MNR's!

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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 7:48 pm 
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Location: Rochester, NY
first350 wrote:
If I had to do over, I'd probably pound out the tranny tunnel side to get another 1" of room (my tranny has a little extra space). As it is now, the gas is easy to operate, but the clutch and brake pedals are a bit close. FWIW I also have size 13 shoes (I'm wearing my Puma driving shoes, so they're as narrow as I can get)

Yikes! There I was realizing theres no way you can drive this thing without driving shoes, but how do ya fit size 13's in there!!?
I think I'll play with the internal panels a bit then - I was unsure how that diagonal was going to work being so close to the clutch. Thanks for the input!


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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 6:45 pm 
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Well, I dont seem to have much to show for the last 2 weekends. Mostly I have spent the time on the wiring which has been as much fun as everyone says it is! At least now I have a plan for how to lay out all of the components and which sections need to be extended.
I did final fit the diff as you can see below, and also fit the propshaft.
Attachment:
diff and propshaft.jpg
diff and propshaft.jpg [ 254.77 KiB | Viewed 1196 times ]

I havent determined the exact position of the center bearing yet because I'm waiting on the adapter to mount the front end to the motor, but you can see the approximate position below.
Attachment:
File comment: center bearing from top
prop ctr brg from top.jpg
prop ctr brg from top.jpg [ 208.21 KiB | Viewed 1196 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: and from the side
prop ctr brg from side.jpg
prop ctr brg from side.jpg [ 209.29 KiB | Viewed 1196 times ]

I also spent time on the scuttle cover panel. This was supplied as a powder coated aluminum panel but needed work (1) to clear where there is a "tunnel" for the steering column and (2) for the battery to sit. It had become pretty scuffed up and there was a bend that had happened in transit. The bend was pretty easy to take care of and I'll spray paint it before it finally goes in place. I have a few more holes to put in it yet anyway.
Attachment:
scuttle cover panel 1.jpg
scuttle cover panel 1.jpg [ 170.1 KiB | Viewed 1196 times ]

Attachment:
scuttle cover panel in place.jpg
scuttle cover panel in place.jpg [ 233.52 KiB | Viewed 1196 times ]

So to finish this post heres a picture of the wiring that I am tired of looking at....
Attachment:
File comment: did I mention I'm color blind?
wiring 1.jpg
wiring 1.jpg [ 272.25 KiB | Viewed 1196 times ]


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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 6:49 pm 
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Your touch ups and adjustments are a great argument for paint over powder coating.

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I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.


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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 11:13 pm 
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Posts: 363
Location: Seattle, Wa
what are you doing for a reverse gear? (IIRC MNR's electric unit sits in the middle of the driveshaft area...)

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