LocostUSA.com

Wow, that looks excellent. I have to admit this part scares me a little.

" I imagine that you're just touching up the holes with the countersink, almost like doing a deburing operation. Is that right? "

That's right Lonnie, I use a drill bit with a wood handle and debur both sides of the drilled hole. Cleans up holes real nice and not very aggresive.


" What is a Roloc disc? If it cleans up sheared sheet metal, it sounds like I need to know about it for future reference. Can you post a photo? "

3M scotch bright Roloc dics, can't live without them.


Wrapped the aluminum around the corners tonight. Used clamps and boards to keep the aluminum flat, that helps a bunch. Basically clamped the sheet in place, clamped the rear boards in place just where the frame starts to transition to the curve. Then took another board and use it to wrap the aluminum around the corner by hand, then clamped it in place. This produced a very nice bend with no spaces between the sheet and the frame and no distortion.


Made a rivet spacing jig from some scrap aluminum, one side is 2" spacing and the other side is 1 1/2" spacing, both are 3\8" in from the edge. Holes drilled are 1\16", thats enough for the center punch tip to go through.


This is a pic of the edge center punched at 2"


Another pic of the sheet drilled and held down with Clecos'. Once done I removed the sheet, deburred the holes, and am now ready to re install with Clecos and using my home made slapper start rolling the sheet over the tubing.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Did some panel beating tonight. I was very apprehensive about this part of the build having no experience beating aluminum but I am very pleased with the results so I had to post some pics.

Here is a pic of the home made slappers I built. Just shaped some boards and gluedn some old belt leather on the working surface. These beat the aluminum beautifully without marking it up.


I used a piece of straight 3/4"x2" board clamped to the sheet\frame to keep the piece from distorting while I'm working it.



This is a pic of the corner after it's been slapped down in place.


Here's a pic of the panel that has been formed top and bottom. Very happy to see hardly any distortion in the aluminum, that's what had me worried about working with this stuff. Next I have to mark the bottom and drill for rivets. I'm holding off on the top drilling and rivets until I form and place a "trunk" above the gas tank.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Perry
That rear sheet metal looks like a winner. What grade aluminum and temper are you using?
Dave W

Looks great. Good job.

I too, was hesitant about this part of the build. I did the side panels first, That gave me the courage to try the rear panel in 1 piece.

Looks like you may have a 2nd career in metal forming if necessary.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

+1. Definitely nice work, Perry.

Thanks for posting the earlier photo for me too.

Cheers,

Lonnie

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Bent some more aluminum this week end. Shelf in front of the scuttle had aluminum cut, bent and fitted, holes all drilled and cleaned, ready for attachment. I won't be doing this till the driveshaft tunnel is finished. Also fitted and drilled the scuttle aluminum. You can see the use of Cleco's, I recommend these strongly for fabrication.


Tonight I reached a milestone, first pop rivets were installed. I bought some RTV Aluminum silicone and am using it on the frame before putting on the aluminum and holding it in place with Cleco's. This should eliminate rattles and squeeks. I'm using stainless steel pop rivets. Another must have tool is a pnuematic pop rivet gun - why should your arms look like Popeye the Sailer when you're cruisin the the 7?

I built a defroster box that comes off the heater box and lays parallel to the top of the scuttle. In this pic you can see the defroster holes drilled in the scuttle, I used some light density weather strip foam to seal the defroster box to the scuttle.

Almost forgot - thanks for the comments guys, much appreciated!

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Fantastic work Perry! By using the most of your 'vette, what do you estimate your finished cost will be, if you don't mind? You are making a high quality build and definately locost in spirit by fabricating or reusing everything from your donor.

This is a great build and I really have enjoyed following your progress.

Thanks gregaustex, I too am also surprised how well the General's Chevette parts fell into place on this build. I am waiting till I get the ride inspected and get a VIN number before I pull out the receipt file and add it up. I'll be sure to post the project cost.

Now, as careful as a person is with the aluminum it gets scratched up from handling. I had some light scratches on the scuttle so I took some 400, then 800, then 1000 grit and worked on the scratches. This was done by hand. so this is the original finish..........


and this is the finish after sanding out various scratches.........


I wasn't too impressed with the shine, very dull, so I watched some youtube videos on how guys are polishing up good old Airstream trailers. Amazing. I picked up some supplies - buffing wheel, tripoli brown and jewelers red compound and after 1/2 an hour ended up with this.......


Now mind you this is just the first buff with tripoli brown. I'll go over it one more time with brown then finish it with red jewelers rouge. After that wax to seal it and make it shine. This, I'm impressed with.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

And then you'll cry when the next scratch happens rather than just shaking your head.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

....DO NOT drive into the sun or sunset.... (kidding...looks great).....love aluminum!!!!

_________________
gblawson (Gordon)
......................................................
http://gblandco.com/gb/cent/cent.html

Looks great. The chevette is a great donor. The T5 ratios are 3.76/2.18/1.36/1.00/0.86 and the tag should read "1352-005" and use gear oil rather than atf.

Did you seal the wiper stems to the cowl to keep water from entering the footwell? Is there a skin seating flange around the stem? Thats a high pressure area at speed, that can push rain water into the cowl.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

[quote=
Did you seal the wiper stems to the cowl to keep water from entering the footwell? Is there a skin seating flange around the stem? Thats a high pressure area at speed, that can push rain water into the cowl.[/quote]

I am going to seal the gap with some RTV aluminum silicone. And try not to be too sloppy

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

I know you've seen Racer Al's build, Perry. His wipers are real slick and have all the usual parts and seals you'd expect. It may or may not be helpful with your setup, but it's worth taking a look at.

I personally had planned to go back and see if I could figure out what he used. I didn't quite do that, but there's a photo in his build here:

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2391&start=255

Cheers,

Lonnie

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Yes I've looked at Racer Al's - fantastic build. I am going to try a build those windshield wiper ferrules from aluminum tube, after all my labor is cheap right?
I made templates from construction paper for the side panels. Must be doing something right, the template I made for the PS fit perfectly on the DS. Traced the pattern on the aluminum sheet using the factory straight edge for the top of the side panel, that way if my bottom cut was a bit wavey who would see it underneath the car? I marked the bottom of the panel for the 2" rivet spacing and center puched the marks. Clamped panel to the table with my 3/4" x 1 1/2" boards and bent the bottom 90* using the edge of the table. Now metal bent against a 90* will not stay at 90* because of spring back. A few posts back I said I was using a sacraficial 1\8" ply sheet on my build table. I extend this sheet 1/8" over the edge of the table an over bend the 90* which will then spring back to 90*. Without doing this you will find the side panel will want to bow away from the frame, you don't want that, you want the panel to come up against the space frame tubes. I also pre bent the panel where the frame transitions at the scuttle to prevent it from bowing away from the frame. Clamped the panel on the frame, made sure its tight to the frame on the bottom and drilled and cleco'd it in place, you can see I used a lot of clamps on the top to prevent panel distortion..

Then I clamped the panel with my boards at the top of the space frame.

Then using my hands I start the aluminum bend by bending it a bit at a time going down the panel.

Then I use my homemade tool that has leather on it so it doesn't mark the aluminum and my soft plastic head mallet and going a few inches at a time beat it down a bit at a time, this usually take 6 - 8 passes along the length of the panel thats being bent. This gives you a nice uniform corner that you will be proud of.
.
I then mark the top rivet holes, center punch them, drill and cleco. Once I'm happy with the fit I remove the sheet to clean the backside of the holes and overbend the top 90* bend on the build table (I must add that while the sheet was still flat before any work was done to it, I overhung the top edge by 1/8" on the build table and put a bit of a bend on it. This makes the cut edge flush to the frame when it's bent at 90*) . Using aluminum color caulking I caulk the side of the frame to seal the panel to the frame, prevent "oil canning", and eliminate squeeks. I installed the panel top first using cleco's then push the bottom into place then cleco it down. Now the fun part, rivet the panel in place with stainless steel rivets, very relaxing and satisfying results.
Of course I had to hang the rear fenders on and put the scuttle in place for the photo shoot.


I just thought I would give you an account of my learning curve working with this aluminum (I've used 6061-T6 on my plane, but it was a lot lighter gauge and stiffer). This is my first time working with .040" as body panels on a car and this is what works for me and I am very satified with the results.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle