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NICE TABLE, but you might want to invest in a 4 x 10 foot of sheet of 5/8 ths steel on three horses. A 4 x 8 is just too short. By the way make sure its clean and FLAT..... You can always sell the plate after the project is done. You can tack on guide pieces ( short bits of 1 x 1 ) and clamp your frame rails to them. The plate will also keep your frame on the square and level.

When I actually start the build (welding the frame), do I start a new topic in the build log again or will the moderator move it back there?

Thanx

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

I would just continue here and ask a moderator to move it into build logs.

Going to pick up my tubing order Saturday. Cleaned up the spindles and hubs. Ordered my polyurethane bushings for the upper and lower A arms and diff trailing arms. Ordered lower ball joints and upper tie rods for the spindles, thanks mookie. I'm taking a fellow builders advice for building the A arms, he says that if he was going to build them again he would use 1" tube instead of 3/4",It's just a 'cosmetic' thing..... did I say 'cosmetic'?, I meant to say - bigger is better.
Because I'm using the Chevette diff with the extended pinion, I calculated the drive shaft length to be around 10".
I measured the inside sidewall to sidewall distance of the back tires on the diff (44"), the 442 frame width is 46". Measured the backspace of the original rims (4.5"), ordered 4 - 14"x7" 4x100 rims from Diamond Racing with a backspace of 2.5"
Anybody have any ideas on how I'm going to build a header for a 1.6L?

All for now

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

I have the Chevette steering rack in my Stalker. At first we had a non power steering version, but with 10" slicks it was difficult to keep up with in autocross courses.. lotsa tight turns. We changed to a power steering Chevette rack, powered by a third gen. MR2 Spyder electric pump. It works GREAT. Fast action for slaloms etc. I know some folks poo-poo power steering in a se7en type vehicle, but I have tried it and am a believer! Either way, the Chevette rack has worked well for us.
Scott

Hey, it just occurred to me...that would be over 1/2 a ton of steel (1,020 lbs., actually). Those would have to be some strong horses!

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/

Cut up some tubing and tacked up the bottom chassis rails. Cut up and tacked the front frame. Cut and tacked the 4 uprights. Ordered 8 sets of bushings from Energy Suspension, PN 9.9105G for the upper and lower A arms and the rear axle trailing arms. Ordered 2 new motor mounts for the 1.6 power plant.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Cut tubing and tacked up the rear bulkhead and side rails. Cross measured chassis and am within 1/16" square. I am taking the stock rad and am going to rotate it 90*, un-solder the rad filler neck and re-solder on the top of the tank. This will turn a horizontal core rad with side tanks into a vertical core rad with top and bottom tanks. Might work and then again....might not.

As a side note - for those of you that noticed the pink floor, it keeps me passive.............

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

You don't necessarily have to move the filler neck. All you have to do is have the filler cap higher than the tank.

A couple of OEMs have put the filler on the thermostat housing of the engine. Others have put an adapter into the upper radiator hose.

If you look in the drag race and stock car catalogs, there are two basic inline cap adapters - one with both hoses the same size, (a Mustang II application) one with a smaller hose on one side (adapting down to the VW radiator that was popular with drag cars 20-odd years ago).

A few modern cars fill from a remote header tank, which can be mounted on the scuttle shelf. You might cruise the local salvage yard and look at options.

The cap on the radiator has to have a higher pressure rating than the one on the remote filler or tank. It would be best of the tank with the cap was on the water pump side of the radiator, so it doesn't see extra pressure from pumping resistance across the core.

For some applications there are aftermarket caps available up to 30 PSI. It might be possible to disassemble and shim a stock cap.

Cut and tacked up the upper rails this evening.

Excellent idea's TRX, but by time I raed these ideas, I had repositioned the filler neck. The rad is now a verticle core rad.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Hah! Nice work, too!

Glued some more steel together today. Need to find a tubing bender that will bend 3/4" tube in a 2" radius for the lower rear corners.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

I had a heck of a time finding a way to bend to that radius. I ended up going to the local airport - there are lots of guys building experimental aircraft using tubing of that size, and they have access to suitable benders for small radii like this. Guy charged me a few bucks, but the bends were perfect - no kinks or flattening, fit perfectly.

Just a thought...

_________________
Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/

[quote="horchoha"]Here is the results of my efforts this morning and afternoon. Legs are adjustable. 4 x 8 MDF top.
Hope to get my 1" tubing this coming week.[/quo

Hi great looking build table..is that 8x4 sheet of MDF 3/4"..19mm ?
cheers Dave

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I USE TO HAVE AN OPEN MIND ..BUT MY BRAINS KEPT FALLING OUT

Don't bother with round tubing for the lower corners - use 1/8" flat.

The rearmost tube is square, which makes a transition from square to a corner made of flat better than a corner made of tube.

A 3/4" tube really should be bent on a 3" Center Line Radius (CLR). Smaller gets much harder to bend.

Personally, I prefer the top and bottom corners the same radius. Mine are much like the book, and I regret doing it like that.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer