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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 12, 2016, 2:37 pm 
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Joined: August 6, 2008, 9:33 pm
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Location: Republic of Texas CSA
I'm running out of excuses:
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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 12, 2016, 2:52 pm 
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You certainly are. Get to work!!! :twisted:

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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 12, 2016, 3:45 pm 
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I could fill that shop in one day with the projects I have stacked outside my shop!

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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 12, 2016, 5:06 pm 
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Well, I have the book, had it for years actually. At this point I'm thinking a book chassis. I want something simple. Don't want to reinvent the wheel here. What would you guys suggest as a good donor for such a project? Again, I want to go as simple as possible and use as much off the shelf stuff as I can.


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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 12, 2016, 6:23 pm 
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rongaudier wrote:
I want something simple. Don't want to reinvent the wheel here.

The two most important rules for the first-time Locost builder. The third rule isn't even close. IMO it's best to use a donor you already know, so long as it meets the basic requirements. Also, using everything from single donor makes stuff fit together a little easier. My MGB-based Locost was a relatively simple build because the MGB is a really simple car. That said, my next Locost would be all Miata except for an early RX-7 rear axle.


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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 12, 2016, 6:52 pm 
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Joined: June 18, 2016, 12:39 am
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Why? I tossed one of those axles when i redid an '83 RX-7, because its weak, poorly geared, no traction differentials, no aftermarket support, odd lug pattern, really badly located Watt's link, tiny brakes, and it had not one redeeming feature. Pretty much any other axle would be better.
I come from Camaros, and my primary donor is my '94 Camaro because everything its donating was gonna get upgraded anyway. Anything my LoCost needs that my 94 also needs will have to come from the automotive salvage yards. Or Summit Racing, or RockAuto, etc.


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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 13, 2016, 12:17 pm 
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rongaudier wrote:
I'm running out of excuses:


Insulation? Hear it gets warm down there and I don't need another "it was too hot to work in the shop today....." :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 13, 2016, 3:43 pm 
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Dave1976 wrote:
Why? I tossed one of those axles when i redid an '83 RX-7, because its weak, poorly geared, no traction differentials, no aftermarket support, odd lug pattern, really badly located Watt's link, tiny brakes, and it had not one redeeming feature.

It's all those things and light to boot. You wouldn't use the Watts on a Locost and the brakes are way more than adequate on a 1400-lb. car. Lightness is key, the rest is personal preference.


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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 13, 2016, 9:43 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
rongaudier wrote:
Well, I have the book, had it for years actually. At this point I'm thinking a book chassis. I want something simple. Don't want to reinvent the wheel here. What would you guys suggest as a good donor for such a project? Again, I want to go as simple as possible and use as much off the shelf stuff as I can.


Simple is good. When folks here say, "The Book", they mean the original Champion book, so I'll assume you meant that traditional Locost design. Here are a couple of things you might want to consider.

The McSorely variations are often better suited to more modern donors as they are larger in various dimensions, which can include chassis height and cockpit width. Chassis height helps with taller engines and wider cockpits help with those of us with larger physical dimensions, plus larger engines/transmissions/rear axles. They are built the same way as the Champion design. Also, 3D models and/or drawings of them are free, so there's not economic penalty for using them.

If you go with a live rear axle, the donor pool will be generally be older as most cars have been front wheel drive since the 80's until recently. One notable exception category has been the small trucks like the S10, Ranger, Toyotas, Nissans, etc. Of course there are the Camaros, Mustangs and a few others, but they tend to have larger engines and transmissions and will require some adaptation and customization of the chassis and front suspension, which you may not want to do.

If you decide to go with a donor that has independent rear suspension, the Miata and various Ford products (T-bird, Explorer, Lincoln) IRS systems have received the most attention on this website, and probably represent the best developed choices for an IRS within the Champion chassis design.

If you have some buck$ to spend, something like the Solstice or Sky would be nice choices, but would also require some rework of the chassis.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 14, 2016, 12:08 am 
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Another irs worth consideration is the '84-'89 300 ZX, only drawback is that there is a common mod to address the camber, but if you plan on stiffly-sprung for competition use, it won't be much concern


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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 14, 2016, 10:49 am 
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Joined: August 6, 2008, 9:33 pm
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Location: Republic of Texas CSA
I've got the Champion book and am thinking book chassis with rwd pushrod Toyota Corolla or Datsun 210 as donor.

Here's an '82 corolla wagon 5-speed that may be ideal.

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/5655957205.html


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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 14, 2016, 1:14 pm 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
That corolla would be a great donor. That's what a lot of the parts for my locost came from. I cut the front struts down for my spindles, used the rear axle and drum brakes, ebrake handle and cables, brake and clutch master cylinders, proportioning valve, clutch slave, and modified the pedals to work. The corolla doesn't have rack and pinion steering, so I used a steering rack from a tercel, which I cut down about 6" or so. I didn't have a complete donor, but scavenged all that stuff from a junkyard. The junkyard I was at used to do a spring cleaning weekend where anything you could pack out was $100, and all those parts were light enough I managed to do it in one trip.
Kristian

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172


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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 14, 2016, 1:27 pm 
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I like the looks of the 3tc/2tc engine, and it is low enough to fit under the hood. Nice cross-flow "hemi" design.


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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 14, 2016, 1:53 pm 
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Yeah, that Corolla looks like a good match for your goals. It sounds like you could have a single donor situation too since Kristian has adapted the front & rear suspension already. Single-donor could be huge because you get so much else that would nickle-and-dime you over the project like wiring, horns, heater core, etc., etc. It all adds up, so being able to strip that donor would be a big advantage.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: okay, now what?
PostPosted: July 14, 2016, 2:46 pm 
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
Lonnie is right about having a complete donor and saving money on the little stuff. Keep the whole car until you're sure you won't need any more parts from it, then hang onto the carcass a bit longer just in case. Cutting the spindles wasn't my idea, I got that one from CMC. Then you just need to make a plug that can be welded into the tube and use a big rod end for an upper ball joint. I kinda take for granted that people have access to a lathe sometimes. The really cool thing about doing it this way is you can put the upper ball joint anywhere you want and pick what you want your kingpin inclination to be. The other cool thing about the corolla struts is that they use a bolt on steering arm which can be flipped for front or rear steer, and I think from side to side to fix the Ackerman if you switch to front steer. I'm not sure what the 3tc weighs, but it has to be lighter than my iron block and head v6, and I managed to keep my car just under 1300 lbs. There's been at least one build log on here with a 3tc, so some reading would be a good idea. I think it would be a good choice for a traditional 7.
Kristian

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172


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