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PostPosted: December 17, 2011, 5:33 pm 
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Location: East st Paul, Mb
HoHoHoboy!!!
Time for aother long over due update. Its been 2.5 months since my last confession. Things have slowed some since the summer (as I expected). My dearest has gone back to work as her mat leave is over :( , and our bundle of joy has become a biped (see-dad-run, run-dad-run). Finding it hard to make time in the gargae when she's such a treat to be around.

Going back to early September, the last couple of things I wanted to to do on the frame for the time being were to cap all the open tube ends.
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and finish up the front diff brace and corresponding frame tube.
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Just for kicks, I also fitted the doners drivers seat.
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It fit but I really felt I was sitting on the car not in it. Mods to be made.

The remainder of September and October were spend getting ready for the next steps of the build.
I had insulated the garage the previous summer in anticipation of the build, but still had an uninsulated door last winter and lost alot of heat there (as was indicated by the half inch of frost on the door).
Uh-oh, my 'under the weather' munchkin just woak from a nap, gotta go, more to come.


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Last edited by cboettch on December 17, 2011, 9:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: December 17, 2011, 9:27 pm 
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Right, so, uninsulasted door in the winter. This was adequate for the miata dissasembley last year, but I definitely wanted more comfortable conditions now. So I found a used insulated door for $200 and was able to sell my old door for $180. Sweet, $20 for an insulated door (for those struggling with the math)! Hooray for a locost moment! I also picked up a 240V constuction heater to replace the hair dryers I was using last year. What a huge differnce. We've only dipped to -20'C so far this year but I can now heat the garage to short sleave comfort with in an hour or two (unlike last year, trying to crack 0 after heating over night).

Back to the locost (well not really). Back in September, I got a bunch of goodies from Jack at Kinetic. I am very pleased with everything I ordered.
Had him send everything to Pembina ND, just across the Can/US border where I picked them up to avoid silly brokerage fees. On the 1st trip took the family with. The plan was to make a weekend out of it, so we picked up the packages and headed south to the Metropolis of Grand Forks ND. After getting to the Hotel, I went back down to get the larger boxes (fenders, nosecone etc) from the trailer to store in our room. Well, I was replacing the bungee net back on the trialer, when last cord, fully extended under the trailer, slipped from my hand (yes, my mind was on other things and I only had one hand on this cord instead of two, poor choice #1) and the plastic hook hit me square in the left eye :ack: (yup, had my face over the cord, right in the line of fire, poor choice #2). Knocked my on my butt, stunned. Put my hand to my eye, it felt depressed and had bloody discharge. Thought I'd lost my eye. Looked in the rearview mirror, and saw it was still there, though bloody, blurry and with a wildly dialated pupil. Collected the dolly that had rolled down the parking lot, and went back up to our room. My insuance carrier directed us to the nearest hospital. there, the doctor there appologized twice for the wait (thought this was quite odd), then, once he realized I was from Canada chuckled and said 'I guess your used to that' :wink: . We spent most of that day and part of the next (for a follow up) at the hospital, so not much of a gettaway. Sorry dear. The 'good news' was that I did not scratch the lense (had my safety contacts on). In the end, after my eye had healed as much as it seemed it was going to, I had my prescription checked (glasses just weren't working right anymore) and my vision had actualy improved form 150/125 to 70/100.
Moral of this story, is, of course- if you want better vision, forget that laser surgery hoakum, and get a friend (or loved one) to sock ya one!

'K, back to the build.The next step was the suspension. I have been working on the rear. This has been slow. Even though I'm not using unique #'s, I want to get it right. Got the pivot and pickup points figured and finally in November, transfered them to a jig. I'm using the factory outer LCA bushings. I Still need to finish them off, but the are complete enought to offer up to the frame to check that all looks good (and it does).
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As the brackets are mounted at an angle I Made up a jig to loacate the pivot points on the frame.
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And the UCAs using the factory bracket
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After a clean up, ill be moving to onto the front suspension.

Also, of note, I've recently made contact with another locoster in Winnipeg! Hi Jann!


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PostPosted: December 28, 2011, 7:45 pm 
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Joined: October 15, 2011, 2:04 pm
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Location: Mission, British Columbia.
Chris - we're building a book-frame locost/Toyota drivetrain with plans to road race it. We're just installing the rear end, working on suspension, etc. Did you look into installing a rollcage for racing, or a quality rollbar? We're wondering about ways to attach the cage, perhaps modifications to the frame to support it.
Jim,
Mission, BC.


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PostPosted: December 28, 2011, 8:52 pm 
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Wow, very glad you made out OK with your eye! Sounds like a very close call.

Hmm, short sleeve weather in the garage, that sounds like an improvement. Let me check though, you're from Canada - does this mean an open glass of water does NOT freeze?

:cheers:

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PostPosted: December 28, 2011, 11:23 pm 
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firebus wrote:
Chris - we're building a book-frame locost/Toyota drivetrain with plans to road race it. We're just installing the rear end, working on suspension, etc. Did you look into installing a rollcage for racing, or a quality rollbar? We're wondering about ways to attach the cage, perhaps modifications to the frame to support it.
Jim,
Mission, BC.

Hi Jim.
Not planning any thing so elaborate as to be road race worthy (assuming you mean wheel to wheel) as I am building it with the intention of making it street legal and I'm not a big fan of how roll cages/bars look on the 7.
Having said that I expect that once the car is done I will want to test it out in a controlled environment (read-autocross events) so I picked up a 5 piece kit from Jack at Kinetic after reading Hassleweed's build.http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=12684. I was impressed with the fact that it is easily removable and it should pass tech here. I may add some reinforcement to the rear once the tank is located and, IF, I were to get to a faster form of racing such as solo sprints I guess a bar running forward into the passenger footwell would be in order.
There are numerous builds that have full cages (Chet's, Jawfish, A Moore's, R1 seven to name a few) that would be worth checking out. Some have even done FEAs. Good luck with the build!

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PostPosted: December 28, 2011, 11:33 pm 
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horizenjob wrote:
Wow, very glad you made out OK with your eye! Sounds like a very close call.

Thanks Marcus. Not a shining moment, but all part of the adventure I guess.

Quote:
Hmm, short sleeve weather in the garage, that sounds like an improvement. Let me check though, you're from Canada - does this mean an open glass of water does NOT freeze?
.
:cheers:

Yup! Huuuuge improvment. Actually gets so warm that I have to turn the heat down, though, again it really hasn't gotten that cold here, yet, but I 'm glad I'm ready for it.

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PostPosted: January 6, 2012, 2:17 am 
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So, Happy days fellow locosters!! The se7en has 4 corners! Well technically 3.5 but lets not pick nits. And I'm not goin to show you right away. Your going to have to scroll through all the blablabla to see.
I spent many nights going to sleep thinking how to accurately locate the front pickup points (brackets) on the chassis, especially those on the LA/LB tubes as they are angled in all three planes. I know understand why some folks incorporate all their angles into the arms and have the pivots inline with the centerline. I ended up making a jig similar to one that I'd seen Jack use to align his two piece brackets. Very simple and worked brilliantly.
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This jig also allowed me to accurately measure the Z lengths (centerline to pivot points) and make the real world minor adjustments on wishbone to get dead accurate control arm lengths. As mentioned earlier in the build I am using Jack's control arm (purchased as a kit).
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and Moog ES2074R upper ball joints. As has been commented in other builds they ball joints did not look exactly alike.
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The Kit, like every thing I have received from Jack is very nicely made and came together well. Thanks to Dave 'could use another two hands' Hempy for the tip in his build on tacking the spacer inside the main lower tube for the rear bolt.
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PostPosted: January 6, 2012, 2:39 am 
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The UCAs were next. Great care (take my word for it) was taken to ensure the tabs were lined up equally relative to the threads on the ball joints (though in hindsight, this will likely only be true for the threads on this set of BJs, eh).
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The LCA were fairly straight forward and I had no problem cutting them up prior to fitting them to the chassis. The UCAs however were a little more concerning as they determine the positon of the upright (generally speaking). So these I made up first using PVC tube first (that and I still need to get the aluminum radius arms from Jack now that I know the length).
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And now several pics on the car. I don't seem to have a pic of all 3.5 corner so that wil have to wait til later.
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I took a couple of rough meassurements and had 0'-+.5' camber and 8.5' caster with out adjusting anything! I'm pretty happy about that (ya, a little fist pump).


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PostPosted: April 28, 2012, 9:04 pm 
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Ok so nearly 4 months since my last post. Yeeesh! Good thing I take a lot of pictures, or I'd have forgotten what I've been up to. So next up after getting the suspension on the car (ok the front is UCA is mocked up, as I still had to get the aluminum radius rod from Jack) was the steering. Oh ya, seems I'm still working on that to this day. Thats why its been 4 months! Really need to start posting any progress and not what for milstones. Though looking back at the pics I took it looks like not a whole lot of progress in Jan , Feb and March. Gets harder and harder to tear myself away from hanging out with my daughter, as she gets older. Any way, back to January.
After much research, decided on the the safe (and legal) route, and shortened the housing myself, but have the shaft shortened profesionally at a machine shop (cut and tapped). NOT locost. But safe.
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While I was at the machine shop, I had my drive shaft shortened as well.
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PostPosted: April 28, 2012, 10:46 pm 
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In February I began locating the rack. I purchased 3" Tie rod extensions.
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I also worked on the steering column location.
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Well, that was February.....


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PostPosted: April 29, 2012, 10:15 am 
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So Its March. he weather is getting warmer. After spending the winter working off the garge floor I decided to pick the build up and set it back on the table. I set the table on a couple of dollies so I can move it around. Kind of a roller :lol: !
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This is encouraging. First Vroom Vroom shots.
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Back to the build. As you can see for this shot below, with the rack in postion the tie rods and the shaft are real close to the LCAs. With the 'wheels' turned and the suspension in drop there is contact. I'm not sure how I missed this (ok, denial), but after bit of research from other builds w/ Jacks suspension this is, of course, the rule. Eh!
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So time to flip the ball joints to the top. Going with the straight shot Mazda 323 ball joints. Tried in vane to secure a reamer the locost way, so had to purchase one. Could not find one locally so back to JMS motorsports who sent one up for me ($112.00 w/taxes for 60 seconds of work, sigh). As mensioned in other build the reamer w/ some cutting fluid cut through the uprights like butter.
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After putting the uprights back in place I decided I was not happy with angle of the steering arm on the ball joint. The arm is at 20'and this doesn't leave the ball joint much room in droop. So straightened out the arm. I was a bit concerned with the arms bending on the same plane once heated but they turned out perfectly
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Last edited by cboettch on April 29, 2012, 11:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: April 29, 2012, 10:42 am 
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Much happier with the steering now! Straightening the arms also allowed me to regain some of the ackerman that was lost when moving the tie rods to the top (in).
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Another area that needed fixin' was the front control arm brackets. I had used straight brackets initially as I had turned my LA and LB tubes in, but it was not enough and the tubes were running real close to the brackets (the uppers in particular). So ordered the 2 piece brackets from Jack. Much better!
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Also finished welding the rear control arms.
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Last edited by cboettch on April 29, 2012, 10:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: April 29, 2012, 11:54 am 
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Congratulations on the roller and I can see you look happy behind the wheel!
:cheers:

Maybe someone here would like to buy your reamer, when you can bear to part with it...

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PostPosted: April 29, 2012, 11:58 am 
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Yo Chris-
That's one cute l'il assistant you got there! I can see why it's tough to get away to the garage. Does she have an "Uncle Bubba"? If not, I'd like to apply for the position...

Oh, car looks good too... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JD Kemp

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PostPosted: May 2, 2012, 9:11 am 
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Thanks Guys!
Marcus- Yes, I am done with the reamer so have updated the "May I rent/borrow/buy your taper reamer?" post. If any one is need, and would like to help defer my cost.
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4141&p=140977#p140977

JD- Very Sweet. Ava is overjoyed to have an Uncle Bubba (who wouldn't be :D )

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