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PostPosted: November 19, 2007, 4:58 pm 
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In the picture above that shows the axle mount for your mumford link, are you planning to reinforce that mount. Its going to have a pretty good load on it. That is where Jeff Underwood's R1 broke if you didn't already know that.

Its a great looking build!

Rod

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PostPosted: November 19, 2007, 9:42 pm 
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Thanks Guys!!!

Blackbird wrote:
Nice build!
Seems like we're sharing some of the vision of the build 8) .

What is the CLR of the die you used to bend the roll cage tubing?
I thought I saw it somewhere but now I can't find it.
Any thoughts about how well / not so well it works for you?

TIA,

Moti


Moti it's a 5.5CLR, I'm using 1.5inch tubing by 0.95, the minimum CLR would have been 4.5, there's a die available, but it requires a minimum thickness of 0.95 and I wasn't confortable with that. For the weight class of these cars you could use 1.375 diameter tubing, but I'd rather go one size up.

The bending went well, nothing too fancy, I've mock up the cage.
Image
Image

Now I need to remove the H tubes, as well as both diagonals before welding the front hoop. If I were to start from scratch, I would first build the cage and then build the chassis around it. Mind you, I just got to take my time, do one side at a time and it's not a big deal. This weekend, I am working on the front suspension and removing the tubes. I'm not touching the A1-A2 tubes, I'm going to weld in a 1/8 steel plate of 20SQ inches and weld the Front Hoop tubes on it and build it from there. It will then be part of the chassis.

Locost 5.0 wrote:
In the picture above that shows the axle mount for your mumford link, are you planning to reinforce that mount. Its going to have a pretty good load on it. That is where Jeff Underwood's R1 broke if you didn't already know that.

Its a great looking build!

Rod


You're right about that Rod, I'm planning on reinforcing the mumford mounts with 3 triangles of 1/8 steel, plus also do as Jeff did for the diff bracket i.e. a ring welded in front to the bracket and diff housing, But before I want to sandblast the whole thing then do some proper welding and then had the reinforments, at this stage everything is only tack on.

Fred


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PostPosted: November 19, 2007, 10:19 pm 
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How did you put the flares on the holes on the front and rear panels? I really like how they turned out.

Rod

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqvYJlYc4GU
http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/beergodrod/
Now building a 1953 Chevy 1 ton panel with Frito Lay truck parts and a Cummins 4BTA
and a 1963 Nova SS


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PostPosted: November 19, 2007, 10:54 pm 
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Locost 5.0 wrote:
How did you put the flares on the holes on the front and rear panels? I really like how they turned out.

Rod


So do I Rod, So do I. :thmbsup:

Seriously I wanted some flared pannels on the car I just think they're cool and look good on a Se7en, althought it's a race car I need it to look good in my eyes.

You need a flaring die. Here a little step by step I wrote for the Terapin Forum.

First: You drill the holes with a holesaw. Once your holes are done, you need to clean them up with a files.
Image

Here are the flaring dies that I am going to use.
Image

Image

You insert the male part of the die in the hole, the small lip is the exact size of your hole, it will rest in it.
Image

On the other side of the sheetmetal, you then screw the female part of the die
Image

You tighten everything together, once there's no more resitance the hole is formed
Image

You then unscrew the die to discover that your hole has been formed.
Image

You then start over and over again
Image

Until done
Image

Fred


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PostPosted: November 19, 2007, 10:58 pm 
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Jawfish wrote:
Moti it's a 5.5CLR, I'm using 1.5inch tubing by 0.95, the minimum CLR would have been 4.5, there's a die available, but it requires a minimum thickness of 0.95 and I wasn't confortable with that. For the weight class of these cars you could use 1.375 diameter tubing, but I'd rather go one size up.

Great minds think alike, that's the same die I ordered from JD2, for the same reasons too 8) .
If the car would be running only with other lightweight cars on track I'd be going with the minimum tubing required, but in reality, I know I'll be dicing it with cars that weigh 2-3 times as much, I'm going size up.

Jawfish wrote:
Now I need to remove the H tubes, as well as both diagonals before welding the front hoop. If I were to start from scratch, I would first build the cage and then build the chassis around it. Mind you, I just got to take my time, do one side at a time and it's not a big deal. This weekend, I am working on the front suspension and removing the tubes. I'm not touching the A1-A2 tubes, I'm going to weld in a 1/8 steel plate of 20SQ inches and weld the Front Hoop tubes on it and build it from there. It will then be part of the chassis.

Fred

Again, we share the same vision, only I wouldn't need to back track because I'm just getting the first batch of my tubing tomorrow.
I was planning on laying the frame of the floor and then to build a dummy cage from PVC pipes on top of it to see how it'll work best for me.
I'm planning on making the front and rear hoops full and tie between them with the braces.

I have a feeling that my front hoop will sit a bit further forward from where you (and Mark Rivera) put the front legs of the cage, closer to where the windshield would normally be sitting.
I think it will provide some better side protection for the legs that way.
I'm also going with two side braces as per section 15.6.12 of NASA's rulebook -
http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/ccr.pdf

One thing that I have to ask you about is the reason you're thinking about mounting plate sized at 20 SQ-IN, unless I'm not reading the section regarding mounting plates correctly -

NASA's rulebook wrote:
15.6.14 Mounting Plates
Each mounting plate shall be no greater than one hundred (100) square inches and no
greater than twelve (12) inches or less than two (2) inches on a side. Welded mounting
plates shall be at least 0.080-inch thick. Plates may extend onto vertical sections of the
structure. Any mounting plate may be multi-angled, but shall not exceed one hundred
(100) square inches total including vertical sections. Each mounting plate should have
an area of not less than nine (9) square inches.


What's the word on that?

PS, I was loooking at the same thing that Rod mentioned, the dimples in the lightening holes... were they done with a dimple die?

Moti

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PostPosted: November 20, 2007, 12:11 am 
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Could a man turn up a set of those dies in a lathe or are they cheap enough to just buy? That really looks good and I'll bet the corrugation it adds makes it stronger.

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PostPosted: November 20, 2007, 12:33 am 
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Hi Moti,

Here a pic fron a build on the Ozzie clubbie forum
Image

I think the best would be to replace the front H and Q tubes with a bulkhead of the same material of the rollcage. This bulkhead would then be in front of your feet. You could then have the front hoop about where mine will be. Tie them both with a diagonal brace. You would keep all the span at a reasonable lenght. This would be a tank of a cage, but as you say when your sharing the track with a car of 2 or 3 time your weight, I'd rather not take a chance.

The 20sq inch thing if from the CASC-OR GCR (Ontario). Since I'll be doing some events with these guys I'll do it their way. I actually read several GCR and took the more strigent of them.

I used Flare dies, they're only good up to 16 gauges, but you don't need a press to form the flare.
i got them from http://www.trick-tools.com
Heres the flare dies
http://vansantent.com/sheet_metal_machines/flare_tools.htm
They also have dimple dies
http://vansantent.com/sheet_metal_machines/dimple_dies.htm
It's a bad site to visit... I keep sending them my money :lol:
Fred


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PostPosted: November 20, 2007, 12:37 am 
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chetcpo wrote:
Could a man turn up a set of those dies in a lathe or are they cheap enough to just buy? That really looks good and I'll bet the corrugation it adds makes it stronger.


At 35-40$ a pop I don't find them expensive enought to turn them... I've got more interesting projects on the lathe :lol:

The dimple dies are more expensive 100+$

It's often a question of priorities.

Fred


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PostPosted: February 7, 2008, 12:05 am 
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Hi Guys haven't posted in a while on the log, but thngs are comming along.

I've been mostly working on car #1, my buddy Marc's car. Our Goal is to get it finish and on the track late April. Will put it true a lot of local Solo 2 Events in Ottawa and Montreal, If things are good, will most likelly do the Peru and Milwaukee National Tours. We will be at the SCCA Solo 2 National Championships at Topeka in September in D-mod.

We tackled a few things fuel is almost finished.
Image

The steering rack is in.
Image

The acusump is being looked after
:wink:
Image

The Dash layout is taken care of, we haven't installed the DIGIDASH since the steering column wasn't taken care... it's one of this weekend project.
Image

On my car the cage has been tack up, I'm just missing the J tube on the passenger side
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I also cut the dash from the scuttle so that I could remove it and leave the gauges alone. On my car my fire extinguisher is underneat the scuttle. I wanted to have easy access. I'll post more pictures of the whole thing latter.
Image

Fred


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PostPosted: July 7, 2008, 12:22 pm 
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Well Topeka is not gonna happen this year, life got in the way...There's always next year...

Fabrication on Marc's car is done
Image

Of course he had to start the 3TC motor just to hear it before taking evrything apart :lol:

Guys I think this is the most gratifying part of the project yet... It has to be done to recharge the batteries in these long term projects...
Without muffler
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x95NIWo4h9A

With Muffler
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WY8ty_Dc2bI

The chassis has been sand blasted and painted...
I just love the green roll bar :twisted:
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

On my project I just receive my new 15 inch wheels, Since my car is not gonna do the parking lot events, and concentrate on Time Trials, and Hillclimb, I decided that an additional 1 inch of ground clearance would be good, also 13s just don't work with 10.250 inch disc brakes up front... The scrub radius is just too much insanne, will see how it`s gonna behave next month on Marc`s car, but for mine with higher speeds I went with the 15s... Their Rota`s RB 15*7 and 15*8, not bad price wise.. 540$ a set shipped... yup I just had to put them on to see :D

Image

Image

Now gotta tackled the shifter... Damn horizontal bar is in the way, not by much, still just a bit... Some quick welding and cutting gave me just the clearance I needed...
Image

Gonna set up the tube bender and bend a 1/2 moon out of 3/4 tube and weld it in instead of that hack-up job of a shifter I have right now...

Latter

Fred


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PostPosted: September 1, 2008, 8:50 am 
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Well six months late, but we put Marc's car on the ground yesterday...

Image
Image
Image
Image

Yup this thing is low... thank god it's only for the track :lol:

Few minor details left, then just need to finish the aluminium on the driver side and rear end, then will do a proper wheel aligmenent and do at least 1 Solo 2 envent at the end of the month... Paint will be done this winter...

Marc even had a go at pannel forming... not bad for first attempt considering he had no tools except form a ball hammer and a rag :wink:
Needed a little bit of clearance for the throtle cable...
Image

Here a couple of low quality video of the roll outs....
http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=-qNpWNWyLt0

http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=Cau3aEhLo9c

Now we get to concentrate on my car :D

Fred


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PostPosted: September 1, 2008, 3:55 pm 
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I wish there was sound on the last two vids, but the car looks great.
I like the frog bar too :lol:

Moti

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PostPosted: September 4, 2008, 12:00 pm 
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Thanks Moti...

Yhea I wanted to post with sounds but i only had my small picture camera... I'll post some vids with sound as soon as possible...

That muffler really cuts down the noise... Will be safe for Calebogie where they have some really strict sound restrictions...

Fred


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PostPosted: September 4, 2008, 7:50 pm 
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Will be safe for Calabogie where they have some really strict sound restrictions...

Strict yes but well worth it


Last edited by racerboy000 on September 5, 2008, 9:56 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 4, 2008, 9:18 pm 
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Yes definetly worth it, being just a few hours away it's safe to say that we will visit quite a few times a year. Plus Tremblant will eventually enforce their noise limits also... Let's face it noise is becoming an issue at several tracks nowdays...

Fred


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