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PostPosted: September 4, 2008, 9:36 pm 
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The track here in Waterford (Waterford Hills) not only has noise restrictions but restirctions on how many days a week they can have cars on the track. It's been there for like 50 years but all the suburbanites that moved out to the country complained enough to get it restricted.

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PostPosted: September 4, 2008, 10:15 pm 
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I hear you.... Same story about Tremblant...

Tremblant is only allowed 5 races a year... on any other day only 30 cars can run at a time between 9:00AM to 5:00PM from April 27th to October 15th. Even then, some residents took the track owner to court for the noise issue, but lost, now their taking the case to higher courts.

If street racing is so wrong ( and I agree) Why is it that we can't have a playground to enjoy our cars in a safe and controled environment... If the track was there before you moved in, there shouldn't be any reasons to bitch about it....

This summer we have a new track at the Mirabel Airport( ICAR) , but it's just not the same, too flat, no scenery, no omphhhhh...

Fred


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PostPosted: September 5, 2008, 12:09 am 
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I agree Fred. IMHO it's no different than buying a house by the airport and then trying to force the airport to move because of the noise. It defies logic.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2008, 1:15 am 
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Yep, the problem is that more people fly than race :? ...

Moti

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PostPosted: November 1, 2008, 10:31 am 
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Well I gonna finish this car this winter. Period.

No more works on others people car... Since I`ve started this project, I finish her twin sister, built an EP Solo 2 Civic, modified an 89 E30 with an E36 drivetrain for the track, Crewed on a E36 2.8L touring car. And help start a STS2 solo 2 CRX project... I have learned to say NO !!!! and I`ve said a couple of times this fall so far, just need to continue saying NO !!!

Ok

Has mentioned in the KYO blueprint tread, The 20V block is sligtly different than the 16V.

For comparisopn purposes, here is the Atlantic Dry Sump pan.
Image

Here is the 20V block
Image

You can clearly see here that 2 holes do not line up, all the others do.
Image

I have 2 options, either build a new pan, out of sheet metal, or drill an new hole and lean one not used. I`m leaning on building a new pan, I got this off Ebay, the pan is fine, but the oil scrapper is not and will require a complete rebuild.

For those of you interested here a link to a less expensive way of doing a Dry Sump system... Still not cheap...
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15804

I`ll later post some comparison pictures between the Pinto spinde and the Triumph spindle that I pick up.

Cheers,

Fred


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PostPosted: November 1, 2008, 12:54 pm 
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I`ll later post some comparison pictures between the Pinto spinde and the Triumph spindle that I pick up.


I am curious if your discussing a real Pinto spindle or the Wilwood "Mustang II" compatible. The Wilwood appears more minimal, but I don't think I've seen a posted weight for it.

I was planning on using Cortina uprights, they are quite light. My mechanic friend recommended against it though for a car that will get track use on slicks. He reminded me that he had had to weld some cracks on mine years ago. They are probably similar to the Triumph ones.

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PostPosted: November 1, 2008, 12:56 pm 
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Tremblant


I drove there once and enjoyed it so much. You do well there - and you feel like you know how to drive. A challenge and it's fun to reflect they ran some F1 races there years ago (I think)...

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Last edited by horizenjob on November 1, 2008, 7:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: November 1, 2008, 1:30 pm 
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They're real Pintos, not the Wilwood ones,

I think also that the Triumph one are the disposable kind i.e. that you raplace them on an interval. Longevity = Weight, the trick is to balance lightweight with your wallet :wink:
Caterham sells their unit for 124 £ so that`s more than 275$ per side...
Race Leda have a beautiful aluminium piece using the cortina Goemetry, but it`s not cheap either. In all honesty I think that for a race car I'd like something that I can get here. The Speedway Engineering aluminium hubs are nice and light. In the best of both worlds I would use a custom upright with a pinto pin, and keep my Speedway hubs. I could get better geometry to use the 13" slicks, but I would need to make at least 4. This way when it cracks I would just bolt the spare on it but this is much further down the road. I picked up the Triumph to study them and use them on a Street only Lotus 7 replica...

I feel very lucky to be in proximity to Tremblant and Caleboogie... Mosport is just a 6 hour drive also. Yes F1 ran there before going to Gille Villeneuve Circuit i.e. 1977, they use to alternate between Mosport and Tremblant. of course the Can-Am cars ran both track. Gotta go to the Vintage Festival at Tremblant next year :D

Cheers,

Fred


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PostPosted: November 1, 2008, 1:53 pm 
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......

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......


Last edited by KYO on March 21, 2011, 3:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: November 3, 2008, 12:36 pm 
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I finish the shifter last night.

Well engaging 1st now is not an issue. No interference with the roll cage.
Image

Image

I`ve also finish and welded, my extinguisher "shelve"

Image

Image

Now onto welding the rear suspension bracket and the sheetmetal for the rear corners.

Fred


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PostPosted: November 16, 2008, 6:30 pm 
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Some work as been done,

the rear sheetmetal is now welded.
Image

And the pedals are now in.
Image

Had a brain fart moment, drilled and installed the MC bottles, but fergot that the Steering column was gona go true bottle numebr 2... No big deal, I`ll just weld up the holes, grind them down, and drill new holes, no big deal, I love working with metal.
Image

Engine mounts are now painted, and reinstalled.
Image
Image
Image

I also put on the pair of Mikunnis I`ll be running nest summer, This is my mock up engine, I need to work on the throttle linkage and the 50AMP Alternator bracket... Yup that`s why it`s hanging down like that :lol:
Image

As promissed, here is the comparison between the triumph uprights and the Pinto. The triumph weight almost 2.5lbs less than the pinto.
Image
Image
As for the hubs disc combination, the aluminium Hub that I have for the Pinto weighs almost the same with a big 10.25 vented disc, vs the steel triumph with it`s small solid disc.
Image
Image

Cheers,

Fred


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PostPosted: November 16, 2008, 6:43 pm 
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Can I come help? I guess 'no' is the answer. :wink:

Looking good... can't wait to see more progress during the winter.

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PostPosted: November 16, 2008, 6:59 pm 
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Your always welcome to come by...

Yhea there shoud be a lot of progress on this one during the winter... Frame is schedule to be painted the week of March 9th, so all fabrication must be done by then. Then it will be final assembly, and testing...

Marc and I have been discussing about building our street versions, were actually planning to build a small batch of chassis. Question right now is if we build Locost Chassis or Lotus 7 chassis, I prefer the Seven, but we both have wide feet, and a bit heavy... We know we can fit the Se7en chassis, but I need to rework to foot box.

We have also discussed of building a full blown D-mod Se7en... The challenge is very tempting... It would be a 2 minute car, Driver only car i.e. set back engine to the max per rule, and offset engine. I have an engine in mind, but it`s needs further study. For the rest will see what we learn this summer from Marc`s car...

Fred


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PostPosted: November 16, 2008, 7:34 pm 
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Jawfish wrote:
Your always welcome to come by...

Yhea there shoud be a lot of progress on this one during the winter... Frame is schedule to be painted the week of March 9th, so all fabrication must be done by then. Then it will be final assembly, and testing...

Marc and I have been discussing about building our street versions, were actually planning to build a small batch of chassis. Question right now is if we build Locost Chassis or Lotus 7 chassis, I prefer the Seven, but we both have wide feet, and a bit heavy... We know we can fit the Se7en chassis, but I need to rework to foot box.

We have also discussed of building a full blown D-mod Se7en... The challenge is very tempting... It would be a 2 minute car, Driver only car i.e. set back engine to the max per rule, and offset engine. I have an engine in mind, but it`s needs further study. For the rest will see what we learn this summer from Marc`s car...

Fred

Looks like that setup won another Dmod national championship this year.

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PostPosted: November 16, 2008, 8:27 pm 
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Yhea Del`s car is built to take the advantage of the rules, and it was overweight by 300lbs !!!! The Lotus that finish 3rd also built that way.

I think this year in Lincoln, on the concrete the 300lbs might have to come off :shock:

You need to have room to play with the weight. So I think you need to build the car at least 100 lbs underweight if not more, then add the weight right at the point that you will get 50-50 weight distribution from left to right and 40-60 front to back...

Since you got a 180-220 lbs weight in the driver seat right besides the left rear wheel, putting the engine/tranny right were the passenger feet/legs are help you offset the drivers weight.

We think that the power levels will need to go up...A built K20 can produce more than 300HP :shock: That will require to have larger wheels at the back. For that reason the Lotus 7 chassis being 3 inch narrower is the perfect choice. Having the engine offset give you room for the driver feet, and to place things inside right in the middle. including the Radiator, plus other things...

It`s the engine that is going to be the fun part of the equation. It will require pure dedication and wouldn't be a locost in spirit.

Fred


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