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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 13, 2007, 1:24 pm 
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Location: Visalia, Ca
I WANT your lathe! :shock:

Rod

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PostPosted: May 25, 2007, 10:47 pm 
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I know what you mean Rod.... I've spent a few weekend getting my feet wet with some simple little projects, but now it's time to get back to my build....


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PostPosted: August 26, 2007, 11:37 pm 
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Hi Guys....

Wow last post was in May... How time flies... Some progress on the car...not as much as I wanted... Lots of head scratching... Fitment of brakes have been a serious issue with the 13 inch wheels... The 6 inch of backspacing required to bring the rear wheels inside to my goal is causing interference between The Wilwood Dynalite single calipers and the wheel... I have the solution, an aluminium hat with a custom 9.00 inch disc. It was my original idea, but I taught I might get away with off the self stuff.

I've put in the seats some 15 inch kirkey Pro Street Drag... Yup not much more space for anything larger in a "Book" frame.
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I've also been playing a lot with the mumford at the back. Everything is tack up, I just need to sand blast the whole thing and weld it up...
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I denitelly will need to reinforce the attachment of the links to the diff I can see all of thiss ripping off :lol:
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Of course I had to machine my bushing with my lathe... A man gotta play with his toys...
here a quick youtube of the link working.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIiEV0DILBw

I've also pick up a new Denso amp alternator... much smaller and lighter than the original 90amp.
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Hey every pounds counts ! :twisted: Once in a while I have to question what I've done and if it could have been made lighter...

On the chassis side I added a diagonal tube on top of the frame... It's below the scuttle.. If you have really long legs it might not be a good idea, but It's not my case and I should gain some stiffness. The mod is commun in the racing Locost in the UK...
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Front suspension is next... Should be fun...


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PostPosted: September 15, 2007, 9:53 pm 
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Hi Guys,

I've been working on the car on a regular basis, I started the roll cage... bent the main hoop, ran out of tubing, since I only ordered for a roll hoop, not a cage originally...no big deal... just gonna order some more next week.
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Since the car will see a lot of of Solo 1 action and most likelly some road racing action I got a Firecharger system... It's a foam based system, that you fill up yourself... very practical in case of accidental discharge ( Yhea everyone has an oups moment). I got the 4.6L liter system, since I wanted to offer the same protection for the passenger during shools, fun ride etc..etc... The 4.6L system is a little large... it created a few issues... the most logical place to put it was in the scuttle...
So I added a 3/4 inch tube, got a 22 gauge steel sheet... just need to cut the holes and swaged them, then weld the whole thing.
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I then reinforforces the front of the car, I added an additional "R" tube, I will not have any interference issues... just to be sure I just left it tacked
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I also added two small pieces of 22 gauge sheet to add some addtional stiffness.
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The idea is to make all openning the smallest possible.
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In the back I'm adding some stiffening for the mumford assembly...
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Just need to cut the holes, swaged them and then weld everything...


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PostPosted: September 16, 2007, 7:37 am 
looks good, but i'd put the halon bottle in the rear just behind the passenger, so its easily inspectable, and in reach by track officials.


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PostPosted: September 16, 2007, 5:11 pm 
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Yhea I wanted to do that , but the tank does not have enough clearance with my diff, since it's sits pretty high with the 3" ride height at the back...

It not much of a big deal, since I'm planning a seperate dash from the scuttle, hence making the removal of the scuttle a breeze...

The best place to mount it would have been in the passenger area, this would have helped keep the wight low... It's still would be possible with a 2.3L canister, but not with the 4.6 Liters...

This is the result at the back after a few hours.
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Fred


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PostPosted: November 1, 2007, 9:02 pm 
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Got our tubing last week, finish bending the roll hoop on my buddy's car.
here a few pics... will do mine next week.
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It's a Solo 2 Warrior but it's going to see some Solo 1 action so we added some side protection to the roll hoop.
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Here my buddy Marc trying everything for size at 6'2" and 245lbs it<s a tight fit in a book chassis but he fits right in...
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Now it's time to drop the 4AGE silvertop in my chassis and start building around it.
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I'M on vacation next week so I'm looking forward to acomplishing a lot more progress.

Fred


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PostPosted: November 8, 2007, 12:47 am 
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Good Day to all,

Did some work on my car. Drop the 20V over the weekend: No big issues, it's tight at the back but nothing to be worried about.
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I then installed the gaz tank at the back nothing fancy, but the tank had to be tilted to provide some safe clearance with the mumford. The tank is the 10 gallon from Jack at Kinetic's
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Here a few comparason shoots between the 10 gallons (white) tank and the 8 gallons tank from JAZ
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I then mounted the Civic rad I got off ebay. Nothing fency , just trid to keep it simple and convenient. It is a race car so thing must be easy to access and take off.
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Yes the rad is offset. Two reasons:
1 The output tube from the rad would be right in front of a tube if it was centered.
2 I have enough space to mount a small oil cooler on the side vertically if needed.
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I got my tubing for the rest of the roll cage last week. I started to bend the cage. I'm going to integrate it in the chassis. Yup it means almost cutting the chassis in half, should be fun. Seriously nothing major just need to take it easy one side at a time and just brace the frame before starting the cuts.
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Fred


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PostPosted: November 8, 2007, 11:14 am 
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Joined: August 14, 2006, 2:09 am
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Location: Sacramento, CA
What happened to the second R tube you added? Did it not allow the 20v to fit? If so, maybe you could try a "Y" shaped tube instead. Have a tube starting at S going perpendicular to Q. Have the tube stop about 6 inches away from Q, or however far away you need clearance, then put two small tubes into each corner of the engine bay, where both the H tubes meet up with Q on the left side, creating a "Y". This is actually a better setup than just the single tube, Torsional rigidity is slightly higher and it doesn't add too much more weight, roughly one pound more.


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PostPosted: November 8, 2007, 8:29 pm 
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Ohh it's going back in after minor surgery.

Its tight with one of the wtaer tubes from the head.
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It could stay there as is, but I'd rather notch it just so that I dont get mad when I want to take off the water hose and things are to tight.

p.s. yes I know the in and the out is wrong. the 20V waterflow is contrary to the norm...
Fred


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PostPosted: November 9, 2007, 12:37 am 
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Location: Sacramento, CA
If I nag you enough will you make it a Y brace instead? :) Or better yet, two Y's on either side of the engine bay.


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PostPosted: November 9, 2007, 3:37 am 
Don't want to be a thread hijacker, but can you give us a link to the supplier of your gas tank? It looks perfect for my build!


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PostPosted: November 9, 2007, 10:27 am 
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THAWA wrote:
If I nag you enough will you make it a Y brace instead? :) Or better yet, two Y's on either side of the engine bay.


Heu nope :lol: Actually on the other side the Dry Sump tank goes in the hole between the R tube and the firewall... So no Y there :wink: I agree a Y would be good, but a removable brace that bolts on top of the engine would be even better... hmmm gonna have to think about this.... The biggest issue of my car is my passenger seat :lol: Take it away and I would have braced the area, put in the dry sump tank, the fire extinguisher and fuel tank on that floor space...

The white tank is from Jack at Kinetics
http://www.kineticvehicles.com/tanks.html#10gal

Fred


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PostPosted: November 9, 2007, 5:58 pm 
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zetec7 wrote:
Don't want to be a thread hijacker, but can you give us a link to the supplier of your gas tank? It looks perfect for my build!


http://www.kineticvehicles.com/parts.html\
Al

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PostPosted: November 19, 2007, 12:41 pm 
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Joined: March 7, 2006, 6:15 pm
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Location: Northridge, CA
Nice build!
Seems like we're sharing some of the vision of the build 8) .

What is the CLR of the die you used to bend the roll cage tubing?
I thought I saw it somewhere but now I can't find it.
Any thoughts about how well / not so well it works for you?

TIA,

Moti

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