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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 12:01 am 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 8:45 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Brighton, Michigan
Hey Everyone,
I am a little behind on posting pictures of my build... ok so like a year behind. Anyway here are the highlights from the last 18 months!
The build was going to be a Miata based build, but at last count only the uprights, axles, brakes and differential have survived. It is also now a right hand drive build, and there are more changes to come...

I am more than happy to answer questions, so fire away!


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 2:36 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 9:10 pm
Posts: 2772
Location: Oregon, usually
That's going to be a lot of fun. Keep us informed. No more disappearing for six months, okay?

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Locost builder and adventurer, and owner/operator of http://www.kineticvehicles.com


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 1:15 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 8:45 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Brighton, Michigan
Haha thanks Jack
I'll do my best not to fall off the wagon again


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 10:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 11:56 am
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Location: Pemberton, BC
Nicely done, Swingtop.
What are you using for a rear end ratio? Will it be street use or track only?
Thanks,
Martin

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My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:52 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 8:45 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Brighton, Michigan
Hi Martin,
Currently the car has a 4.30 differential from the Miata donor I had bought. But after a little research I have found that will be way to deep. I am going to replace it with a Ford 8.8 IRS unit, 3.55 gears to start with most likely. But finding info on mating up to miata hubs or axles is like trying to find hen's teeth. So I have been holding off on purchasing anything.
I would love to find a source for a low ratio gear set for the 1.6 Miata diff, but that's even more rare.
The car will be primarily a track car, I may look into getting it on the road in the future but the goal for this season is to get it running well enough to do some autocrossing.
I have some plans for a turbo, maybe nitrous, maybe a lot of stuff :D


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 3:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 8:45 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Brighton, Michigan
I took the plunge last week and ordered an 8.8 ford differential, it came out of a 2002 mercury mountaineer. I was planning on broaching the miata hubs to fit the mountaineer axles but after some research I think it will be easier to turn down a mountaineer hub to fit the miata bearings, and then drill the mountaineer hubs for a 4x100 lug setup.

if anyone has any thoughts on a different route I am all ears


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 4:46 pm 
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You've already painted yourself into a corner or two. Considering where you are at, use 90s tbird hubs so the bolt holes won't overlap when you redrill.

Not sure why you think the axle info is rare as hen's teeth. I haven't seen where you've asked anybody here. Try searching for "broach".

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 8:45 pm
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Location: Brighton, Michigan
I guess that comment was out of date, I did a lot of research in the last week and did find a lot of information. As far as I have found on this forum Mark Williams is the company that people are using to broach hubs, the only other source I have found is Monster Miata.
Are there any other places that will do the broaching?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 7:27 pm 
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It depends on whether the company has the right broach for the job. I verified with Mark Williams that they had the right one by sending them the end of the axle. Companies that make axles typically have a few broaches, but broaches are very specific unlike tools for cutting splines in an axle.

Disregard about the tbird hubs as the holes still overlap.
However, a better option is to have axles made that accept the heavier duty protege cv, still fit the miata hub, and the ford tbird inner tulip in the length that you require. Moser is reasonable. You need to send them the tbird axle with the inner end marked and a miata axle with the out end marked, then just tell them how long. No spacer and no broaching.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6305&p=100352&hilit=protege#p100352

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 12:31 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 8:45 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Brighton, Michigan
Understood, I like the idea of making just the custom center shaft. Do you have any info on the internal spline profile for the protege CV? I have a friend that can cut the splines on the axle, just need dimensions on the tooth profile and diameters.
Also did you have the axles nitrided or heat treated after being customized?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 7:20 pm 
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To get the protege outer cv, it should come with a shaft to remove and measure. Aftermarket axle mfgs are not using oem profiles to save costs. However, considering how long rear cvs last, it isn't likely you will need to worry about replacing them ever.

I think it is a proprietary alloy used by Moser. The best axles have spring like qualities, such as 300m, but it isn't necessary. I did not specify any heat treat to the axle. The cv inner is extremely hard material. Unlike the germal type cvs where the axle slides in and out of the cv, these are locked to the cv inner and do not wear except for tolerance in the splines that can allow rocking but I've not had an issue.

If you cut a ford axle to machine to match the protege cv, be it aftermarket or used oem, be sure to machine all along the axle in a taper to avoid any section being more resistant to twisting than another. The axle should twist uniformly along it's length.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 1:18 am 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 8:45 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Brighton, Michigan
Hey guys, I have made some more progress although not as far as I would like. Anyway here are the pictures:

Got the new diff a while back, the search for an axle solution is still ongoing.
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Tried out my shrinker/stretcher on making a scuttle hoop with good results.
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A local contact of mine was nice enough to donate a Titan steering rack from a Dallara Indycar Chassis to my project. I re-purposed a set of 1.5" roll bar clamps, they weren't all that cheap but very nicely made and exactly what I needed to get the job done. The mounts will get a tube to tie both sides together. This setup will allow me to slide the rack forwards and backwards to adjust the amount of ackermann in the system. I am also planning on making some studs for the steering arms that will allow me to adjust out any bump steer, stay tuned for that.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2016 1:21 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, CA
That sliding rack setup is pretty slick.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2016 11:24 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 8:45 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Brighton, Michigan
Hey guys,
Back again with the latest, been too busy to get much done on the car lately but i did make a contraption to get the smoke out past the bumper. I will preface this post by saying the intention of this exhaust was NOT to showcase my fabrication skills, the intent was to use the scrap/spare parts I had on hand and get an exhaust on the car for cheap. All in this was $14. I am planning a turbocharger upgrade for next season so I didn't waste time or money on this NA exhaust.... enjoy!

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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2016 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 8:45 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Brighton, Michigan
Hey Guys,
Another quick update, progress is a bit slow these days but I still got a few things done. I have a scuttle frame ready to be wrapped in aluminum and got the fuel tank mounted.

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