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PostPosted: April 4, 2018, 10:17 am 
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Holy Cow, that's your "home" lathe? Nice!

The fenders and aluminum surround look really good. Whose fenders did you use? They look like fiberglass to my eyes.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: April 4, 2018, 10:44 am 
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Those aluminum trim pieces look great - nice idea! I wish I had a lathe. Jealous. :cheers:

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PostPosted: April 4, 2018, 1:49 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
Holy Cow, that's your "home" lathe? Nice!

The fenders and aluminum surround look really good. Whose fenders did you use? They look like fiberglass to my eyes.

Cheers,


RandyBMC wrote:
Those aluminum trim pieces look great - nice idea! I wish I had a lathe. Jealous. :cheers:


Thanks I kinda stumbled on the idea on accident. I tried making the the trim pieces out of aluminum sheet hammered around a wood form but that wasn't going well. So I was going to form the aluminum sheet over an aluminum frame but when I was done with the frame I realized there was no point in putting the sheet over it. To get the curve I just bent the angle around the same wood form and called it a day.

I bought the fenders brand new second hand from a gentleman in Toronto who said he go them from Jack at Kinetic but he didn't have photos. I thought they were going to be Jacks steam roller fenders but they were not so I am guessing that they are Curtis Unlimited. I am not sure about the history of fenders available from Kinetic. I have been meaning to ask Jack about them but I haven't yet.

It is a really nice lathe its an Emco Super 11 made in Austria in the 1980s. I bought it a couple of years ago and is defiantly a step up from my old atlas. It was expensive but I have made enough parts for myself, and for a side business fixing small letterpress printing presses and fixing presses for my wife's business that it has paid for itself over the last 3 years.


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PostPosted: April 11, 2018, 9:39 am 
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I didn’t get much done over the weekend but I did start to work on the exhaust. I am waiting for an exhaust head flange to come in the mail so I figured I would start working on the trasition between the exhaust ports and the header tubing. The Saturn LL0 engine has really wide ports so I made a quick tool out of some scrap heavy wall tubing. A hydraulic press would have quick work of this task but I don’t have one so I made due with a 2lb hammer.


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PostPosted: May 7, 2018, 9:37 pm 
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Made some progress over the weekend. I was able to make a mount for the engine computer next to the fuse box and I started working on radiator lines. I was trying to find an affordable source of stainless tubing and elbows 1-1/4" in diameter. I ended up getting a long bathroom grab rail that only cost me $17 dollars and it has enough straight section plus the two elbows to make all my coolant hard lines. I started on the top section by cutting the grab rail to length leaving one elbow and then I silver brazed on a stainless mount to bolt the tube to the cylinder head in about the midway point.


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PostPosted: July 2, 2018, 8:57 am 
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Finally had some time to get back to work on the locost this Saturday. I tried my hand at making a 4-1 merge collector and I think it turned out ok for the first try. I also made mounts for the exhaust hangers so the rear half is hangining by the mounts. Up next is to pipe from the cylinder head to the collector and trim the tail pipe.


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PostPosted: July 2, 2018, 5:34 pm 
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Unless you are going to use a slip fit between the primaries and collector, I think you have painted yourself into a corner.
You could remove one of the collector tubes, weld in three tubes fully, then place the fourth back in after final welding the assembled pipe, then finally welding it at each end (collector and head flange). Nice fab though!

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
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360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: July 2, 2018, 8:54 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Unless you are going to use a slip fit between the primaries and collector, I think you have painted yourself into a corner.
You could remove one of the collector tubes, weld in three tubes fully, then place the fourth back in after final welding the assembled pipe, then finally welding it at each end (collector and head flange). Nice fab though!


Thanks for the compliment. You are correct I am going to have a slip fit for the collector. I don't have a good way to expand the tubes myself so I bought tailpipe extensions that already one end expanded. I was going to use those but they wouldn't fit in my bender with the already expanded end. So I am going to put the expanded end opposite the collector. It is backwards from what i see in most cases, but it is the way that Caterham do it for some reason so it must work. I will probably end up trimming the tubes on the collector quite a bit shorter but I left them long until I am sure


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PostPosted: July 3, 2018, 8:01 am 
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Lee
I used tailpipe extensions that have one end expanded on my header. I attached them with just a single stand off tab on each tube and a 1/4 bolt holding them together. I used high temp RTV around the ID of the slip fit, to prevent any exhaust leaks. No leaks and it easy to dis-assemble. DaveW


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PostPosted: July 3, 2018, 5:55 pm 
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You might also cut off a section of primary three inches long (x4), make a length wise cut with a band saw or friction cutter, squeeze it in a vice to bring the edges back together, tack it, make it round again and check the fit into the collector before final welding the cut. Slip it into the collector and build your primaries out to it, then dress the welds down to be pretty. So many ways to accomplish the same thing. :cheers:

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: July 5, 2018, 8:11 am 
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davew wrote:
I used high temp RTV around the ID of the slip fit, to prevent any exhaust leaks. No leaks and it easy to dis-assemble. DaveW

I was wondering if people used a sealant on this joint or if they just didn’t worry about a minor leak that could occur.


Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
So many ways to accomplish the same thing. :cheers:

You hit the nail on the head. That’s the fun of building these cars.

I managed to get some time out in the shed yesterday and started to work on making the primaries. I have the easy bits tacked up for all 4 and have one completely tacked up. The first one went easy but I’m sure squeezing the other three in now will be the challenge. Once they are all tacked together I plan on breaking the tacks at the head so I call pull them apart and weld everything. Then I can make the final welds at the head were I have space to weld them all around.


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PostPosted: July 10, 2018, 8:22 am 
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I managed to cut and fit the other three primaries over the weekend. I took them apart and made about 3 welds before I ran out of gas. Looks like welding them will have to wait until Saturday when I can get my cylinder refilled. No problem as there is still lots to do. I started messing around with the willwood remote master cylinder reservoirs. I am not to impressed with the ones I have. The caps don’t screw on right and are poorly molded. What is everyone else using? I did some quick searching and didn’t see many affordable alternatives. I might just make my own.


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PostPosted: July 11, 2018, 11:14 am 
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I have the Wilwood kits, Lee, which give you both an attached and remote reservoir option. I had planned to use the remotes, but after reading a thread here on how poorly they performed, I just made room for the directly attached ones.

There is a fix for the remotes. You'll have to do a search as I don't have a link to the thread to share with you.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: July 11, 2018, 2:08 pm 
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Dude, really nice work!

I'm using OBP units which are pretty affordable. I think Pegasus or Summit sells them. Here's a photo of them:

Attachment:
IMG_2350.JPG


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PostPosted: July 12, 2018, 12:07 pm 
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RandyBMC wrote:
Dude, really nice work!

I'm using OBP units which are pretty affordable. I think Pegasus or Summit sells them. Here's a photo of them


Thanks for the compliment. I did see those on the Pegasus website and I think they will be my next choice if making my own doesn't work out. They seem to be the best choice for plastic ones.

Lonnie-S wrote:
I have the Wilwood kits, Lee, which give you both an attached and remote reservoir option. I had planned to use the remotes, but after reading a thread here on how poorly they performed, I just made room for the directly attached ones.

There is a fix for the remotes. You'll have to do a search as I don't have a link to the thread to share with you.

Cheers,


I did a bunch of searching and I did figure out how to make them seal by carefully lubricating the o-ring with a small amount or brake safe silicone grease. Making sure that the o rings don't twist when assembling the base and reservoir, and finally making a ring of 0.050" thick aluminum to go between the plastic and the hose clamp to evenly distribute the clamp loads. I have had them filled for about a week now without any leaks. The only thing is that the reservoirs them selves are molded really poorly and the cap wont even stay on two of the four that I have.

So I have decided to try my hand at making my own reservoir. It will be a single reservoir that is divided to separate the front and rear brakes. I dug through my drops and found a section of 2"x4" aluminum box tube that I am going to weld a divider in the middle of along with caps on the ends. I took another scrap piece of aluminum bar and machined a weld bung for the Wilwood cap that will be welded on the top of the reservoir to finish it off.


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