LocostUSA.com

I thought I would try and be better at updating this build log. I recently finished going through the rear brakes. New shoes wheel cylinders and a nice set of aluminum drums that are available again for anyone using a GM 7.5/7.625 rear end. I also finished up the parking brake lever and cable and those are working now also. A couple of weeks back I picked up a set of fenders from a fellow member that he get from jack but I believe they are Curtis unlimited fenders.

Ooooooh, shiny stuff, Lee. Me like.

Those nice rear drums really do fit well with a Locost, don't they. All your metal on the seatback looks good too. Kepp the updates coming.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Got a good source?

Tim

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

Cardone started making reproductions of the original GM aluminum drums again. Part Number 2c-18000. You should be able to get them from any auto parts store that carries Cardone. RockAuto has them for $95 a drum, expensive but they do save quite a bit on weight, and I didn't want to switch to rear disks.

https://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=2C-18000&make=Chevrolet%20Trucks&model=S10%20Pickup&year=1988&info=Rear+Left%3a%3a%3aw%2f+2+3%2f4%22+Hub+Hole+Diameter+and+w%2f9+1%2f2%22+Rear+Brakes%3a%3a%3a

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/cardone+select,2C18000,drum,1744

Finished all of the brake lines this weekend. I used copper nickel brake lines and JIC fittings as they are the same dimensionally as AN fitting but significantly cheaper. I just need to mount the remote reservoirs and then I can bleed the brakes. Fuel lines are up next and I am going to plumb them in the oem style nylon lines and quick connects so I don't need to mess around with tons of adapters, and can use inexpensive factory fuel filters, stock fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator, etc.

Looks good. That photo of the front makes your brake calipers look huge. I hope they don't "throw you over the handle bars" when you apply them.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Hopefully it will stop that well. Those ore the factory Fiero calipers which are a pretty nice single piston aluminum caliper, but I was a little disappointed by the lack options when it came to brake pad choices though.

I need to do a lot of zip tie trimming but the feed and return fuel lines are all routed along with the fuel filter.

Hi Lee,

It's looking very nice.

What kind of (black) lines are those going to the tank? Did you make them yourself, or have them made up? I've not seen hoses like that before. Since you have a return line, I assume your EFI is high pressure. The one on my Mustang donor operated at 45 PSI, nominal. Do you know what yours operates at?

What the blue anodized fitting for? I'm going to guess at some kind of connection for a breather/vent since you have a supply line already.

Is the yellow connector for your fuel pump or the fuel gauge sender? Didi you get the tank and fittings from a single vendor, or put the components together yourself?

Sorry for the thousand questions, but these are things I'll need to do in the near future, so I keep my eye out for good solutions.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Glad to answer any questions. The fuel lines are OEM style nylon lines that are pretty common now and I think they are rated at 200psi but im not 100% sure. The lines are the same type of lines lines that Saturn used originally and operates at is 36 PSI at idle and 48psi engine off. The lines I used are Dorman but there are a few other companies making them, or you can pull them from a lot of cars at the junkyard if you are feeling ambitious. I assembled the lines myself using a K tool international KTI-75300 tool that pushes the barbed fittings on and does not use clamps. SUR&R makes barbed fittings that slide on and are secured with a clamp that crimps on eliminating the need for a special assembly tool. Allot of shops have the tools to do it and your local auto parts store might have the tool you could borrow or take the lines to them to have the fittings installed. I went this way instead of the typical hard lines because it allowed me to use the OEM fuel filter and fuel rails without having to mess around with a bunch of adapters to convert from the quick connects to hard lines. In areas where abrasion could be a concern I and put regular rubber fuel over the nylon line in those areas which is also what the oems do.

The blue AN fitting in the tank I got from JAZ came with it and will be plumbed in as a vent.

The yellow connector came from racetronix and is a metripac connector for the fuel pump power wires and the sending unit. You can buy it prewired from them or save a couple bucks and buy the components separately and put it together yourself but you need a metripac crimp tool. If you are using it on a plastic tank the material is to thick to secure it. It was designed to go through a metal plate. I just made a metal plate that seals to the tank and allows the connector to attach properly. Inside the tank is the oem fuel sender unit and then the power wires and fuel lines run out through there bulkhead fittings.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=BCWS-001

Hope that answered your questions. Let me know if you have any more.

Thanks very much, Lee, the answers were a help. I like the idea of those nylon lines. I wish I'd know about them sooner. I have hard lines for the engine compartment and trans tunnel, but could switch to something easier for the "over the live axle to the tank" part where there will be some tricky bends involved.

I go back an forth between making a tank (mine would have to be steel) and buying a nice one like you did. When I see a nice setup like yours, I think "buy."

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Yea I went with a plastic tank for ease of fabrication but it does limit you to the size and shape of the available tanks out there. and makes it hard to maximize space on these small cars. It also makes baffles inside the tank a lot harder but not impossible. I just went with the factory sending unit that has a reservoir that holds the returned fuel until there is a lack of fuel on the pickup and a valve shuts and allows fuel to be drawn from the reservoir around the pump. I am hoping this will be enough to prevent starvation in turns.

Thought I would post an update. I finished the rear panel it took two tries but the second time it turned out pretty good. I also have wheels and tires now so I can work on mounting the fenders. Ordered a 3/4 die for my bender and it’s it the mail. So as soon as it showes up I can make the fender stays. I’m pretty excited for that. With the wheels and tires its a roller now with a little wiring it could move under its own power which gives me some more motivation to keep going.

Yay! It really makes a difference when you get the wheels on.

Have you done the wiring yet?

Those turns in the rear body panel look really good. Lee. They look crisp & tight. Congrats.

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886