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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 14, 2018, 7:25 am 
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I checked my res and it seals well to the cap but the top of the res has to be smooth. The cap vent doesn't actually seal, just a little labyrinth passage to the hole in the center. I prefer the larger res and not fill it completely. Nice machined piece though.

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PostPosted: July 14, 2018, 8:10 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I checked my res and it seals well to the cap but the top of the res has to be smooth. The cap vent doesn't actually seal, just a little labyrinth passage to the hole in the center. I prefer the larger res and not fill it completely. Nice machined piece though.


Yes you are correct, I originally tried to go the easy route and just buying a generic weld bung and cap bit couldn't find a vented one. Thats why I ended up using the Wilwood cap The cap is from a master cylinder it is vented and it has a rollover valve to prevent leaking if i ever end up the wrong way up. Fingers crossed that never happens. The reservoir will be 5in long 2in wide and 4 in tall with a divider slightly offset for more volume for the front brakes. it should have the same volume as the Wilwood reservoirs when filled 2/3 to the top.


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PostPosted: July 14, 2018, 11:05 am 
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I was wondering how you were going to weld the internal separator. I see what you did there. Very clever. :cheers:

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PostPosted: July 19, 2018, 9:05 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
I was wondering how you were going to weld the internal separator. I see what you did there. Very clever. :cheers:

It is clever and I would love to take credit but I had seen it done that way a couple of times on cars at the Watkins Glenn vintage Grand Prix.

I finshed welding up the reservoir and have the exhaust manifold almost done I just need to weld the O2 sensor bung in and weld the v band flange and collector on.


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PostPosted: July 19, 2018, 4:24 pm 
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Beautiful header!

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PostPosted: July 20, 2018, 7:00 am 
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Both pieces are very nice work. No wonder they call you "Welder Lee"... You're obviously good at it!
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: July 24, 2018, 5:38 pm 
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WelderLee wrote:
rx7locost wrote:
I was wondering how you were going to weld the internal separator. I see what you did there. Very clever. :cheers:

It is clever and I would love to take credit but I had seen it done that way a couple of times on cars at the Watkins Glenn vintage Grand Prix.

I finshed welding up the reservoir and have the exhaust manifold almost done I just need to weld the O2 sensor bung in and weld the v band flange and collector on.



What type of material you used for your exhaust?
Mild Steel?
Why not stainless?
Or is it stainless and doesn´t show well on the pictures?
And last, if mild steel what are you planning to use for finish?
Thanks.
--


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PostPosted: July 25, 2018, 8:05 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Beautiful header!

GonzoRacer wrote:
Both pieces are very nice work. No wonder they call you "Welder Lee"... You're obviously good at it!
:cheers:
JDK


Thanks for the compliments. I was really happy with how it turned out. I was ok with how the welds came out considering I'm a desk Jockey now. I used to weld almost every day, but not so much anymore.

ChanoquinII wrote:
What type of material you used for your exhaust?
Mild Steel?
Why not stainless?
Or is it stainless and doesn´t show well on the pictures?
And last, if mild steel what are you planning to use for finish?
Thanks.
--


The header is mild steel 16 gauge thick, and the rest of the exhaust is stainless steel. I used mild steel for two reasons but they are both related to cost. I am on a tight budget, and when I bought the mandrel bends I paid around $36 for all the bends and I still have a few left over. In stainless the same bends would have cost me $250. The second reason was that I have never made a header before and I didn't want to risk wasting expensive bends on rookie mistakes. I will probably just end up painting it with header paint and doing exhaust wrap, or I might have it ceramic coated if i can find someone local who does it. For how little these cars will actually be driven and never in the winter, it will be many years before the header rusts out on me. Maybe someday I will remake it in Stainless Steel but for now that extra money is better spend on the rest of the parts I need to finish the car.


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PostPosted: August 13, 2018, 9:18 pm 
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Nothing super exciting to look at but I started the wiring this weekend. I have all the wires ran to where they belong and wrapped in woven split loom. I have one tail light completely wired now I just need to cut the rest of the wires to length and add the correct weather pack connectors, and/or appropriate terminals/ground wires.


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PostPosted: August 29, 2018, 8:11 am 
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I am pretty excited that all of the wiring is done minus gauges as I still need to order them. I finished up the wiring for the chassis and all of the lights fuel pump ect. work. I also cleaned up the engine harness and that is done. The coolant piping is also ready to go, I silver brazed rings made from SS weld wire to hold the hoses on. All need to do is get an oil pressure gauge and fill the coolant system and I will be ready to try and start it for the first time since the rebuild.


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PostPosted: August 29, 2018, 10:47 am 
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I don't blame you for being excited. Video(s) on startup if you can.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 30, 2018, 7:26 am 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
I don't blame you for being excited. Video(s) on startup if you can.
Yeah, what he said! I'm kinda excited and I'm just watching... Good luck!
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: August 30, 2018, 12:22 pm 
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Thanks for watching and being excited for me too. As long as everything goes to plan and I get time this long weekend I’m hoping to have a video to post next week.


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PostPosted: September 4, 2018, 8:14 pm 
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Not the first start but the first successful one. Got it started on Labor Day with a few hiccups. First was a high idle because I forgot to replace the intake manifold gasket. Second was a fuel pump that would not stay running due to a bad crank position sensor that was good enough for the ignition module to make spark but not for the computer to keep the pump running. The third was a lack of backup light switch in the transmission that leaked about a quart of brand new transmission fluid onto the floor. Fourth were some miscellaneous minor coolant and oil leaks. All easily fixed except the valve cover which is leaking so I will have to clean that all up and reseal it. Also has an exhaust leak as the manifold is not tight I need to take it off still to paint it. I fixed everything but the valve cover and now it seems to be running ok ish. It is a little hard starting and is running a little ritch, I think the Injectors need to be cleaned as they have been sitting around for 7 years and were of unknown condition to start with. I will start there and see what happens. But all in all mostly a success.


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PostPosted: September 4, 2018, 10:51 pm 
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Congrats! You'll have those small issues sorted out soon, I'm sure. We'll be looking for an on-the-road video sometime in the near future, Lee.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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