LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently March 28, 2024, 4:00 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 506 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ... 34  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: December 20, 2011, 12:37 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
Posts: 1994
Location: Novato, CA
signbandit55 wrote:
One problem you'll have with the lower a-arm from the B is that you may not get enough track width if you go with a wider rear axle.

I unfortunately found this out after I'd already built my front A-arms. Minimum track for a book Locost with really skinny tires is around 51", which is about 2" more than an MGB. In back you can use spacers or a different axle. In front you need longer A-arms.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 21, 2011, 3:08 am 
Offline

Joined: October 8, 2008, 12:22 pm
Posts: 199
Location: Austin Texas
A few months back I looked for the original wheel size for a Series 1 Lotus 7... 15" is what I found on several sites.

Dean


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 21, 2011, 8:28 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 13, 2011, 5:19 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Stratham NH
DeanD3W wrote:
A few months back I looked for the original wheel size for a Series 1 Lotus 7... 15" is what I found on several sites.

Dean



Thanks!

_________________
1998 E 300 Turbodiesel
2006 Jetta diesel
1995 C3500 purple diesel bucket truck w/yellow & silver flames


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 21, 2011, 1:43 pm 
Offline

Joined: December 29, 2007, 10:41 pm
Posts: 1004
Location: Vancouver, BC
On the wire wheel thing, the stock size for the S1 7 was indeed 15" x 4", and were 48 spoke. I would highly reccommend going to 60 spoke (which i used on my car). For the hubs, you might look at getting TR3/4/5/6 wire wheel hubs as they are a bolt-on hub and share the same bolt pitch circle as the MGB. The downside is that the TR hubs use 7/16" mounting studs, where as the B has 1/2". You can replace the B studs with 7/16 from the TR's or you could opend the holes up on the hubs. The problem with opening the holes up is finding suitable nuts. The TR nuts are chamfered both sides, the one side is chamfered to clear the hub of the wheel, the other to help center the adapter.

As for the Spit/GT6 bolt on hubs, they are shorter than the standard wire wheel hub and use a special wheel that only fits the Spit/GT6 hub. So, in my mind useless unless you want custom wheels or stay with a 13" wheel.

One more thing, if you think the wire wheel B axle is narrow, try fitting a Spridget axle into a car, now that is narrow. But with the hub adapters on it, it does clear the 39" wide chassis of the Seven (and Eleven).


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 21, 2011, 8:08 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 13, 2011, 5:19 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Stratham NH
The problem with opening the holes up is finding suitable nuts. The TR nuts are chamfered both sides, the one side is chamfered to clear the hub of the wheel, the other to help center the adapter.


Looks like I have some nut chamfering to do on my lathe. I already have the B WWs sandblasted and coated with self etching primer. I also have to use half-inch wheel spacers as the hub adaptors don's fit over the metal surrounding the axle nut.

Ah well.

_________________
1998 E 300 Turbodiesel
2006 Jetta diesel
1995 C3500 purple diesel bucket truck w/yellow & silver flames


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 21, 2011, 11:00 pm 
Offline
Toyotaphobe
User avatar

Joined: April 5, 2008, 2:25 am
Posts: 4829
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
signbandit55 wrote:
Looks like I have some nut chamfering to do


Doesn't that hurt?

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 22, 2011, 12:00 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 13, 2011, 5:19 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Stratham NH
carguy123 wrote:
signbandit55 wrote:
Looks like I have some nut chamfering to do


Doesn't that hurt?


You have to pick the right tools and go slow. It helps to have a couple of glasses of wine first.

_________________
1998 E 300 Turbodiesel
2006 Jetta diesel
1995 C3500 purple diesel bucket truck w/yellow & silver flames


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 23, 2011, 9:57 am 
Offline
We are Slotus!
User avatar

Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
Posts: 7651
Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
signbandit55 wrote:
carguy123 wrote:
Doesn't that hurt?

You have to pick the right tools and go slow. It helps to have a couple of glasses of wine first.


You musst have zee correckt tools und ze correckt la-bore-a-tory assistant, yah, Herr Doktor?
Attachment:
young-frankenstein.jpg


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 23, 2011, 2:26 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: March 19, 2011, 10:22 am
Posts: 2386
Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
carguy123 wrote:
signbandit55 wrote:
Looks like I have some nut chamfering to do


Doesn't that hurt?



I think today all the cool guys call that "man scaping", good thing I'm old school and understand what you mean by chamfering your nuts. Did I say that right?

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 23, 2011, 2:48 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 13, 2011, 5:19 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Stratham NH
Did some more frame assembly last night and started welding up a few of the joints to keep things rigid and stop stuff from bending. So far the frame is totally straight and true. I think it's because I'm clamping it to a steel welding table that has a MDF top that is bolted every 6 inches to the top.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
1998 E 300 Turbodiesel
2006 Jetta diesel
1995 C3500 purple diesel bucket truck w/yellow & silver flames


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 23, 2011, 8:50 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 13, 2011, 5:19 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Stratham NH
Here;s my solution for eliminating the lower trunion and upper bushing for the MGB front kingpins. Nothing is set in stone yet. The heim joints at top are threaded into a jig. The big old bolts will have the heads turned thinner by quite a bit. There are grade 8 captive washers behind the castellated nuts keep the suspension in place if the spherical part of the heim joint falis. I had a very old Beattie Formula Ford that had this washer set up. Thankfully a heim joint never failed so I can only hope it works.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
1998 E 300 Turbodiesel
2006 Jetta diesel
1995 C3500 purple diesel bucket truck w/yellow & silver flames


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 24, 2011, 12:11 pm 
Offline
We are Slotus!
User avatar

Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
Posts: 7651
Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Yo, JD-
Clever design. I think if you're using two heims on top and bottom (one on either side of bushing/trunnion) that it should be plenty strong enough for a lightweight car like a 7.

:cheers:
JD

{I think I should be JD1 and you JD2. Just sayin...}

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 24, 2011, 9:42 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 13, 2011, 5:19 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Stratham NH
GonzoRacer wrote:
Yo, JD-
Clever design. I think if you're using two heims on top and bottom (one on either side of bushing/trunnion) that it should be plenty strong enough for a lightweight car like a 7.

:cheers:
JD

{I think I should be JD1 and you JD2. Just sayin...}
causin


I can be JDD, since that's my intitals. On the Heims, What I have yet to determine is that if I make the A-arms on top so the front and back tubes aren't welded to each other, will the spherical ends of the rods (at all four rod ends) allow the upright to rotate (causing positive and negative caster and maybe a little camber movement as well. I have a very scientific way of figuring this out. I will fab up the a arm tubes on top so they aren't welded to each other, bolt the thing together and see if it moves. If it does, I'm welding another tube to join the front and rear tubes to each other (near the upright). Heavy 5/8 x 1'2 inch heims are overkill, but who cares about unsprung weight when you're running 165 SR14 tires on wire wheels?

Happy Holidays!

JDD

_________________
1998 E 300 Turbodiesel
2006 Jetta diesel
1995 C3500 purple diesel bucket truck w/yellow & silver flames


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 25, 2011, 8:55 am 
Offline
We are Slotus!
User avatar

Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
Posts: 7651
Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Yo JDD-
I had a similar "thing" on the rear control arms in my build. I went with bushings on the outside ends, because I was concerned with rotation of the arms. These were the rear CAs, and more of an H than an A shape. I think if the two outer are close together and you have a cross brace it will help, but I'd be concerned about unwanted rotation, just like you said.

I performed the same experiment, built an LCA and then swung on it. With stiff poly bushings, rotation was negligible. I'd be interested to know your results with heims, especially since I shied away from using them!

Merry Christmas to you and yours-
JDK

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 25, 2011, 7:12 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
Posts: 1994
Location: Novato, CA
I didn't want heim joints either so I went with rod eyes. More surface area and still adjustable for camber. My A-arms are two piece, with a bolt-together cross tube, similar to the shock arms on a stock M.G. We'll have to see if it works.

Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 506 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ... 34  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 57 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
POWERED_BY