LocostUSA.com

Speaking of which, what's the "Law" for $$$/HP in that case. I've got 3.8 liters and would be happy to get 300 HP without spending twice the amount on the engine that I spent on the remainder of the car. I'm not sure that can be done without turbocharging, though. I'd love to be proven wrong.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I have a 100hp Suzuki Swift GTi motor and 5spd tranny sitting in the garage for the last 4 years waiting for the old xflow to die but the xflow keeps on ticking. One of these days!!!!!!!!!!! Russ

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You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.

Swift GTI is a great engine. 100hp was conservative. A friends dynoed 93 or 94 stock at the wheels That's more like 110 crank. Really light and durable.

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Volvo 240/P1800 Based Locost
2004 Aprilia Mille Factory
1988 Volvo 240 5 Speed ( For Sale)
2002 Toyota Tacoma
1999 BMW M3

Light is an understatement. The Samurai tranny I will use you can carry around like a loaf or bread. I bet the Suzuki motor and tranny combined weigh less than my Ford tranny alone!!!!

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You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.

Thanks for letting me stop by and chat for a while, Nick! It was interesting to see how some of the MG stuff works in person--I haven't really studied up on that breed much. I'm still impressed with your wooden test frame you made...and the "welds" on it.

As mentioned, here's the places I got my shocks and springs from:
http://autofabcart.net/

And the wheels:
http://www.racinglab.com/

Thanks, Matt. Good meeting you, and I appreciate the links. Good luck with your build, I'm following along.

Well this only took way too long. Determined to use as many pieces from the M.G. donor as possible, I crammed the original pedal box and steering column into the same space on the engine bay shelf by building a ridiculously complex assembly of boxes, brackets, and sheet metal that all bolts together in under four hours.



I built a seperate gas pedal box and used that as part of the support for the brake and clutch pedal box. I could've welded everything together, but then the steering wheel would've been trapped, so the only thing welded in place is the mount for the steering column. The good news is, the steering wheel is just about exactly centered and the pedals mostly all move back and forth without hitting anything.







I assembled everything for these photographs, then took it all apart again so the pieces can all be stored in a corner of the garage until the day comes that I need to steer the car.

Well done nice job

Kiwi Dave

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I USE TO HAVE AN OPEN MIND ..BUT MY BRAINS KEPT FALLING OUT

That all looks very nice.


Thanks for all the nice pictures, it's helpful.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Ditto. Will you be adding a thin gauge sheet box over the whole thing and the column end to stop airflow into the footwell?

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

The stock pedal box cover fits over the pedal box, along with a felt gasket for sealing. The steering mount box will be welded to the firewall so that end will be sealed. The only thing I still need to do is fashion some kind of cover for the steering column. I'm hoping I can do something with aluminum sheet.

very tidy,

good to use as much of the donor as possible, do you have a choice of holes to allow for pedal box adjustment?

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this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.

Other than the holes in the donor pedal box being slotted, there's no adjustment. Like everything else you do for the first time, I'd make a bunch of changes if I ever did this again, starting with moving the P tube an inch or so aft. That would widen the engine bay shelf, lower the steering column, improve access to the mounts, and allow for pedal adjustments. Right now space is at such a premium that every component is just about where it has to be. The pedals have just enough range of movement, the steering is centered, and I'll be able to close the hood. It's not optimal, but it'll work.

beautifuly done! How's the pedal height? I kept my pedals right on the deck because I felt the pedals were too high when I had the MGB box raised up. I like the way you did the steering column. I notice that your MGB steering wheel has the same rusty patina as mine!

JDD

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1998 E 300 Turbodiesel
2006 Jetta diesel
1995 C3500 purple diesel bucket truck w/yellow & silver flames

Hi JD. I measured the height of the pedal box in the MGB at 15", and the locost shelf was only 13", so I added an inch and a half, which also lets me fit the steering column underneath. I've sat in the car with the pedals installed and they seem fine to me, but I have really big feet.

That steering wheel has to go, unless I can figure out a way to get my knees to bend backwards. Something in the 12-13" range would work, I think.