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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 21, 2013, 4:10 am 
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RTz wrote:
Or red Loctite in studs, and then use the prevailing torque nuts?


The local ace - my temple of bolts failed me hard when it came to studs today.

They did recommend what was called 'metric safety washers' - it looks like a grated belleville. I gave it a shot and got everything setup and torqued properly (in place of my normal 'tighten it until it's right' method for driveshaft bolts in other cars) I'm hopeful it'll work - otherwise I'll buy some studs online and use those.

reassembly continues. oil pan went back on the motor and the motor & trans went back together and into the car last night. I wasn't able to get any improvement out of my oil pan height. I"m going to run it as is and buy some ebay dry sump parts in prep of when I finally bottom my oil pan.

Coated headers also went back on
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I worked a bit of grinding into the rod end misalignment bushings I bought as they didn't work with the narrow spherical joints. After I sized them appropriately I increased the misalignment angle from the original ~8' to about 20'. More than enough to prevent any joint bottoming in my suspension travel range

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I started reassembly of my front suspension
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I'm still waiting on parts for my upper arm misalignment and camber adjustment as well as steel tubing for the new length of my pushrods. However all of the fitment has worked out and I've got a lot more suspension travel then I need - a big improvement from before. I should be able to more than bottom the body without running out of suspension movement.

I went a bit overboard on my brake caliper - I ran a bolt in with teflon tape in and then cut it off. I started with a few spots just to make sure the bolt didn't back out and ended up welding all the way around the perimeter.

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in continuing with reducing my rear dynamic toe condition in the rear I'm using my new favorite tubing - .625 .083 wall - just a pinch under 1/2" inside. I drilled the tubing out to 31/64 and then used a newly ebay purchased undersized chucking reamer to push the tube out to .498 for a very nice fit with my AN bolt. I then held it into the upright with permatex sleeve glue.

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PostPosted: February 21, 2013, 2:52 pm 
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I've had good luck with Nord Lock locking washers on industrial equipment that is subject to vibration and heavy torque.

They also work well as header lock washers.

http://www.nord-lock.com/products/wedge ... roduction/

Greg


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PostPosted: February 22, 2013, 9:21 am 
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a few more weight saving ideas...

#1. Miral Li battery use two 255CCA in series...I talked to these guys at a Motorcycle show for my AC Cobra weight reduction program. 562 567 3030 phone no. Not sure what battery you got now...but these can save some weight.

#2. small 60 amp Denso alternator... http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/r ... ators.html
ditto with this vs the stock one pictured!

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PostPosted: February 22, 2013, 5:26 pm 
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DonChez wrote:
a few more weight saving ideas...

#1. Miral Li battery use two 255CCA in series...I talked to these guys at a Motorcycle show for my AC Cobra weight reduction program. 562 567 3030 phone no. Not sure what battery you got now...but these can save some weight.

#2. small 60 amp Denso alternator... http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/r ... ators.html
ditto with this vs the stock one pictured!


I'm considering going to a lithium battery - I'm runnin an 11lb braille unit now and it's a whole lot better than most similar offerings. I've got the weight as low as I can get it so it certainl isn't too impactful.

My roomie got a lithium unit for his motorcycle and it weighs nothing. for the same price as I paid for my braille I can get a 12 cell lithium that should run the car just fine - a savings of about 8lbs. I suspect I could recoup some from my battery as well.

I've been looking for a decent alternator alternative. I just don't need the 120+ amp stock unit but at the same time I'd like to maintain my very functional automatic tensioner and stock mounting point. I've been unable to find anyone with f20c motors going to a smaller alternator. for autox I could conceivably go alternator less but I don't see the reliability/overall losses being worthwhile for a relatively small weight and engine power draw reduction.

thanks for the links to the alt guys, I'll look around for options that will work for me!

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PostPosted: February 26, 2013, 3:32 am 
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The car continues to go back together. I've been cleaning up and sorting out lots of little things that I put off the first time.

Mr RTz came over on Saturday and helped reassemble the rear suspension. his fab skills are breathtaking

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look at those one off aluminum spacers instead of my ugly washers

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I buttoned up my wiring finally, all covered in grommets and soldered connections. It still needs a bit more work but the scuttle has WAY less wiring in it now

all the extra wires in the harness have been removed and the extra wires for the safety switch are now run through the harness as well

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lots of last little parts coming in this week but I do believe the car should be ready Friday for the weekend of autox.

Now if only I could sort out if it's going to rain or not so I could get the right tires mounted.

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PostPosted: February 26, 2013, 10:07 am 
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Tongboy wrote:
Now if only I could sort out if it's going to rain or not so I could get the right tires mounted.


Though choice, an extra un-used set of wheels might make the decision easier...


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PostPosted: February 26, 2013, 2:03 pm 
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Mhm wrote:
Tongboy wrote:
Now if only I could sort out if it's going to rain or not so I could get the right tires mounted.


Though choice, an extra un-used set of wheels might make the decision easier...


Yeah, I'm intending on ordering a set of aluminum wheels for my dry runs and using my steels for rain rubber as once the season gets going the rains might only be used 3-4 events out of the year where as the dries will be used the other 20 or so (that and the price difference between ~75/wheel & ~250/wheel) However I haven't gotten around to ordering the other wheels yet and was holding off until all my suspension was redone.

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PostPosted: February 26, 2013, 2:33 pm 
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Do you have actual wet race tires or are you using street tires as your "wets"?

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PostPosted: February 26, 2013, 2:54 pm 
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a.moore wrote:
Do you have actual wet race tires or are you using street tires as your "wets"?


I have some race rains. After my last event last year that I ran on slicks in the rain. Really for no reason other than to see what I needed to sort out so I could run in the rain (drain holes!) I really don't want to run on slicks in the rain again. I had a fantastic time though. puttering around a slow sweeper slower than I ever imagined going and the car STILL rotated on me. Going through the finish lights looks like crashing down into splash mountain.

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PostPosted: March 13, 2013, 2:04 am 
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So I got the car back together and it ran pretty well for the first weekend.

I took it off the build table at about 8pm the night before practice... suffice to say I didn't give it a very thorough alignment or do much more than a bolt check all the way around the car before it was driven onto the trailer.

On the plus side - aside from a fiddly start signal plug that I easily fixed it didn't give me any troubles all weekend and ran well.

the downside - the 7" dries I had mounted up front (it actually didn't rain enough all weekend!) left the car under-steering HARD all weekend. My lack of alignment didn't help the situation. I improved the situation throughout the weekend but I was pretty far off pace. The fastest car was the VERY quick D-prepared car that was ~4-5 seconds faster than me on the ~45 second course. From 3-4 FTDs at the end of last season to 5 seconds off pace... it's like starting over again.

Further good - the rear suspension changes worked VERY well. absolutely zero dynamic toe and the adjustable toe is amazingly easy to adjust. The reduction in rotational mass was very obvious. the car accelerates instantly.

The not so good. My front suspension was rushed - with critical parts getting in the day before it's supposed to go on the road left me playing catch up a bit.

With the very low front suspension I'm worried about my oil pan... I've picked up some dry sump parts off ebay to start prepping for switching over from the wet sump.
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after the weekend I started prepping the car - I need to get the car d-mod legit - which means tire covers. I started with the rear and incorporated the rear spoiler. I think it came out pretty well, especially considering I only had about a night and a half into it.
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I still need to finish up some mounting and tie points to the roll rage. the whole spoiler is hinged so that I can fold it down while it's on the trailer.

after the rear I started on the front. I've begrudgingly decided to do a front single piece out of carbon. Which of course means I need a buck. I started on the car and then reproduced parts of the front to continue off the car
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I also picked up a carbon fiber ITB intake cover that I couldn't pass up. At some point I'll have to actually pick up & fit the ITBs
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it's amazing how light the piece is. combined with ITBs it should be some nice weight loss on the car and a power pickup.

I've also got my new avon tires & wheels ordered, all should be here before the next event towards the end of april. Hopefully by that event I'll have the car more stabilized so I can get back to small improvements instead of reinventing the car every time it goes out...

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PostPosted: March 13, 2013, 7:55 am 
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Great progress. I like the spoiler, how are you going to secure it in place for racing if it is hinged?

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PostPosted: March 13, 2013, 8:26 am 
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Yo, Tong-
Looking good, Bro! I've just lived thru a similar "first outing" where the alignment and handling was just awful and I got thoroughly trounced by the Minehart's V8 Stalker. But, like you said, a proper alignment and some tweaks here and there and perhaps it'll be much better next time. It's that "reinventing" stage that drains so much energy out of you, don't ya think?

So, did you have a pink snowstorm in your shop? I've lived through several of those, doing fiberglass bodywork. I've also had to dust off every single damned piece of equipment in the shop afterwards. Bummer... Keep us posted on the carbon fiber forming part of your build, I'm interested in that stuff. Never done it, want to know more... Please share!

I like the curving ally fenders, they look sleek. Gonna put a "cone catcher" in front, like some folks do?

Great looking build! Keep the pictures coming!
:cheers:
JD Kemp

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PostPosted: March 13, 2013, 9:13 am 
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Looking good! I like how you used the existing rivets to attach the spoiler with piano hinge - very clean.

I'm not sure how much this matters for the club you run with but I don't think having a gurney flap at the top of the spoiler is legal. I asked about this before and was pointed to 18.F.1.

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PostPosted: March 13, 2013, 10:00 pm 
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The latest SCCA Solo rule book link also includes this years Fastrack additions in the appropriate places in red. I'm afraid Andrew's correct on the spoiler flap. FWIW, I used to have similar rear fenders and made them look more stock like last year to make sure I wouldn't run afoul of 18.1.F.2. Check out 18.1.C.3 too.

Jeff Christianson has a full width rear fender/spoiler combo but note that most 7's are already rear aero biased so I'm not sure it's needed.
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PostPosted: March 14, 2013, 3:34 am 
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wrightcomputing wrote:
Great progress. I like the spoiler, how are you going to secure it in place for racing if it is hinged?


I'm planning on running some small steel wires about the size of bike brake cables out to the edges and a few to the center with clips off of the roll bar rear stays.

GonzoRacer wrote:
Yo, Tong-
Looking good, Bro! I've just lived thru a similar "first outing" where the alignment and handling was just awful and I got thoroughly trounced by the Minehart's V8 Stalker. But, like you said, a proper alignment and some tweaks here and there and perhaps it'll be much better next time. It's that "reinventing" stage that drains so much energy out of you, don't ya think?

So, did you have a pink snowstorm in your shop? I've lived through several of those, doing fiberglass bodywork. I've also had to dust off every single damned piece of equipment in the shop afterwards. Bummer... Keep us posted on the carbon fiber forming part of your build, I'm interested in that stuff. Never done it, want to know more... Please share!

I like the curving ally fenders, they look sleek. Gonna put a "cone catcher" in front, like some folks do?

Great looking build! Keep the pictures coming!
:cheers:
JD Kemp

Thank you! The snowstorm grows daily... it's amazing how far it spreads... This is my first experience, I've been reading non stop on it and taking advice from my friend who did a bunch of composite work in college.

I'm planning on running a morgan plus 8 body style so the body panels that go back to the rear will be held up likely with some steel rather than just cone catchers.

a.moore wrote:
Looking good! I like how you used the existing rivets to attach the spoiler with piano hinge - very clean.

I'm not sure how much this matters for the club you run with but I don't think having a gurney flap at the top of the spoiler is legal. I asked about this before and was pointed to 18.F.1.


Thank you!

cashmo wrote:
The latest SCCA Solo rule book link also includes this years Fastrack additions in the appropriate places in red. I'm afraid Andrew's correct on the spoiler flap. FWIW, I used to have similar rear fenders and made them look more stock like last year to make sure I wouldn't run afoul of 18.1.F.2. Check out 18.1.C.3 too.

Jeff Christianson has a full width rear fender/spoiler combo but note that most 7's are already rear aero biased so I'm not sure it's needed.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8309/7959396604_7bf30d440f_c.jpg

Jeff


Here I haven't finished the rivets and both of you are telling me I need to drill them out, oh goody! at least they aren't all installed yet. And here i just liked mounting the plate that way for running the front stays and less so as a gurney flap.

So I can't find anything that explicitly says no shape (bend/angle in my case) can be applied to the top of the rear spoiler. There is actually a place in the street touring rules that clarify endplates as something that shovels/traps the air. I can believe that 'other' aero as called out in 18.F.1 clarifies it but no where in the rules do they call out an exact definition of a spoiler either... To me a non clarified definition is a great place for a letter of clarification or a protest. Am I right? Not that I think there is any competitive advantage in a gurney flap on a rear spoiler. I've also never dealt with that in racing so I've only read the process and never participated in it.

Jeff - I'm hoping to balance the rear aero with a full width front splitter & spoiler. Leaving the rear spoiler hinged also gives me some range to try and balance the front & rear.

I spent more time working on my buck tonight, so much pink fuzz

I gave the lotus nose a lot of consideration but I just don't like the look in comparison to the morgan nose
Image

Image
progressing along the front rough shape. first 4 pieces of 2" foam have to be straight up. After that the shape will hopefully look something like below
Image
it's even almost hte right color

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