LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently Fri Oct 31, 2014 12:51 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 221 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 ... 15  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 4:11 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2006 1:06 pm
Posts: 742
Location: Vista (north of San Diego CA)
It would be great if you could post a couple of pictures of the weighing in the Engines and Drivetrains forum in the sticky "Summary of engine Weights".


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 9:20 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:08 pm
Posts: 241
Location: Portland, OR
Been gathering parts while the chassis is getting welded

I plugged the heater hoses on the engine with some NPT plugs
Image
Image

I also made a clutch remote bleeder so I could easily bleed the clutch while its in the car without any odd work to get to the slave cylinder - I had one of these with my t56 and LOVED it. I don't know why more cars don't employ these

the AN4 input to the 10mm banjo bolt & the bleeder hole tapped for the 1/8NPT remote 90
Image

back installed on the tranny
Image

Image
you can see the line snake up along the trans and engine

AN6 and banjo with a fuel pressure gauge on it on the intake of the fuel rail
Image

amazon sent me the wrong FPR so that isn't in the picture... I was intending to use the stock one but there wasn't an easy way to convert the stock return to an AN line - the FPR has an AN outlet on it... it's just another 120 bucks... The later s2ks (ap2) switched to a returnless style manifold - for NA power it would be easier than the return system.

today I started chassis painting the finished parts of the chassis and test fit the laser cut floor.
Image
it fit PERFECTLY. i'm so glad I did it that way then trying to deal with cutting that big of a piece of 16gauge AL.

I'll still have a number of access holes i'll need to drill out as well as the surround of the sump but I wont have to trim the edges!

This week is the week I took off work so we'll see how much progress I can make on it in a week, a number of big items aren't supposed to be done/here until towards the end of the week but there is a bajillion things to do anyways.

_________________
My Build thread: F20C powered Autox & track toy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 12:52 am 
Online
The voice of reason
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 4:47 pm
Posts: 5801
Location: Massachusetts
I like your floor. This car won't drip oil, at least for a long time!

Are you going to put holes for the sump etc. in it?

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 6:42 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2008 6:29 am
Posts: 3406
horizenjob wrote:
I like your floor.

Are you going to put holes for the sump etc. in it?


Ground effects Baby!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 3:21 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:08 pm
Posts: 241
Location: Portland, OR
horizenjob wrote:
I like your floor. This car won't drip oil, at least for a long time!

Are you going to put holes for the sump etc. in it?


there will be a few access holes to get to some bolts and what not as well as an opening for the part of the engine sump that protrudes below but it will all be kept to a minimum to maximize the benefits (and rule limits) of the flat bottom.

finished welding all the little bits on the chassis and put it on the hoist to weigh it
Image

it weighed in between 166 & 168
Image

starting to get chassis paint
Image

another shot of it changing colors
Image

the frame spent most of its day on its side while I cried in agony over drilling SO many holes for the floor rivets. then it finally got flipped over to apply the sealant and rivet the floor on
Image

after ~600 rivets or so
Image

and back to the same place it started the day at
Image

_________________
My Build thread: F20C powered Autox & track toy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 5:41 am 
Offline
Toyotaphobe
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 05, 2008 2:25 am
Posts: 3304
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Now how much does it weigh?

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 1:21 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:08 pm
Posts: 241
Location: Portland, OR
carguy123 wrote:
Now how much does it weigh?


good question. I'm going to put it back on the scale today and find out.

I expect with the ~23 sq of aluminum at .717 lb/sq, the rivets and the glue maybe an extra ~20lbs?

_________________
My Build thread: F20C powered Autox & track toy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 9:00 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:08 pm
Posts: 241
Location: Portland, OR
spent the day working on some sheet metal, lots of initial test fitting from my patterns and trimming, still tons of edge cleanup and final fitment. most of this stuff of course wont go on permanently until later along in the build but I wanted the trans tunnel side pieces in place in case I need to run any grommets or similar for wiring/fluids.

Image
Image
Image

the only non-standard thing I think i'm doing in this area is that i'm using a single side piece for both sides from just rear of the front uprights all the way around the curve in the rear. I'm intending on cutting as little as is needed out in the rear wheel area. I'm doing this in the hope of some structural benefit, semi-monocoque of sorts. really all it probably means is that I have too many damn rivet holes left to drill.

Image

_________________
My Build thread: F20C powered Autox & track toy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 12:00 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:08 pm
Posts: 241
Location: Portland, OR
worked mostly on the fluid system the last few days

front radiator upper mount, you can also see some front brake lines
Image

all the brake & fuel lines still need to be adel'ed to the frame but i'm trying to save that for the end so I can properly mount things together

fuel and hydraulic systems
Image

up close of the fuel rail with the pressure gauge and the FPR. i need to rotate the head of the fpr for better hood clearance on that vacuum line...
Image

fuel pump & filter at behind the fuel cell
Image

got my rollbar assembly from rollcage components, parts look beautiful. I'm going to fit them up later tonight

edit:
with the help of my lady friend I confirmed that the main hoop of the rollbar is right where I wanted it - ~2.5" above my head with my helmet on - a bit of safety margin over the SCCA requirements.

Image

_________________
My Build thread: F20C powered Autox & track toy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:21 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:08 pm
Posts: 241
Location: Portland, OR
work continues.

i've been busy plumbing and forgetting to take pictures...

I recieved the wrong racepak dash a few days ago... that sucked

I picked up three of my shocks today, my shock guy had 5 spring perches in his inventory list but could only put his hands on 3 so i'll get the other one later in the week.

it's pretty cool to see the suspension come together with everything for real finally with the AN hardware and the shocks

Image

Image

the shock dyno shows a nice linear rate with good similarity between the front/rear pairs - my shock guy is confident the fronts will wear to be very similar after a bit of use.
Image

the lady friend found she enjoys riveting so I didn't dare waste her wanting to do some riveting...
Image

_________________
My Build thread: F20C powered Autox & track toy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:41 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:41 am
Posts: 174
Location: Fresno, California
[quote="Tongboy"]work continues.

i've been busy plumbing and forgetting to take pictures...

I recieved the wrong racepak dash a few days ago... that sucked

I picked up three of my shocks today, my shock guy had 5 spring perches in his inventory list but could only put his hands on 3 so i'll get the other one later in the week.

it's pretty cool to see the suspension come together with everything for real finally with the AN hardware and the shocks

?///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Where did you come up with the front shock rocker design? They look very interesting? Any pics available of the rocker by itself?
Good looking project. You are definitely on roll!

_________________
McSorely 442 / SBF - track day, autocross, street licensed toy. Build in process.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:29 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:08 pm
Posts: 241
Location: Portland, OR
monte montemagni wrote:
Where did you come up with the front shock rocker design? They look very interesting? Any pics available of the rocker by itself?
Good looking project. You are definitely on roll!


Thank you! nothing too special about them, I sort of fell into them after fiddling with the suspension math and general packaging and then I had them laser cut. I actually need to slightly update the pattern to better clear the shock (surprisingly the shocks are bigger than my temp tubes...

I'll see if I can dig up a pic of the rocker itself...

_________________
My Build thread: F20C powered Autox & track toy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:16 pm 
Online
The voice of reason
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 4:47 pm
Posts: 5801
Location: Massachusetts
It's pretty rare to see a rod end used at the bottom of the front upright. It looks like you went for a large one, so that's a help but it's hard to tell how well it will take bending across it's threads over time. That bottom joint carries the weight of the car and shock loads on bumps etc. You can put a spherical bearing in a cup there if you don't want to change to a ball joint.

Even if you don't do that right away, you should keep that high on your list. Nice job otherwise.

Is your rack wide enough? Maybe you'll have to mount that tie rod under the steering arm.

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 10:03 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:08 pm
Posts: 241
Location: Portland, OR
horizenjob wrote:
It's pretty rare to see a rod end used at the bottom of the front upright. It looks like you went for a large one, so that's a help but it's hard to tell how well it will take bending across it's threads over time. That bottom joint carries the weight of the car and shock loads on bumps etc. You can put a spherical bearing in a cup there if you don't want to change to a ball joint.

Even if you don't do that right away, you should keep that high on your list. Nice job otherwise.

Is your rack wide enough? Maybe you'll have to mount that tie rod under the steering arm.


thank you!

I know its not ideal, I sized up two sizes to a 3/4 stud balljoint to try and help keep it attached. I'm planning on watching it and addressing it if it needs it. I like the range of motion a ball joint gets me and don't like that there aren't a lot of good spherical bearing offerings in the larger sizes that have cups premade and making spherical bearing cups aren't something that i'm looking forward to...

as discussed before the rack is short - it's a few inches narrower than ideal. I wanted a rack that offered ratio adjustment over the ideal length rack. I'll see how the bump steer is after getting it adjusted horizontally before i go to make/buy a perfect width rack.

My goal now is very much to get it running and driving so I can sort the issues out as individual projects as I find that is a lot easier than entire car projects.

_________________
My Build thread: F20C powered Autox & track toy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 10:20 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2011 12:17 am
Posts: 115
Location: Sandy, OR
Tong, if the jam nut loosens up, that's an indication that the rod end is bending.

_________________
Regards, Ron


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 221 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 ... 15  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY