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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 12:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 12:26 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Euless, TX
Long time observer, first time poster. Jack at Kinetic recommended I start a blog to share what I've done.

I started building a Vodou chassis, but was missing some dimensions. I turned to the Haynes book and Saturn for some help. Ended up with a Saturn diff cage. Suspension is a mashup of all three.
My buddy Justin is building one at the same time. We started in early August, and have been making some quick progress. This weekend, my frame moved from the table to the floor. wow, was that an awesome moment.
I'll get some pics up as quick as I can.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:08 pm 
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Location: Euless, TX
Pics


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File comment: This was my first night. I already had a flat table from my composites past, so I just through a sheet of MDF on top
beginning.JPG
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File comment: This is my donor - I actually got it in a 2 for one deal, and sold the other car - so it's free
donor.JPG
donor.JPG [ 561.41 KiB | Viewed 1890 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:16 pm 
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Location: Euless, TX
More pics


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File comment: We all have to do this, right?
test fit.JPG
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File comment: 3D!
3d_frame.JPG
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File comment: Saturn-style rear section with minor mods
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File comment: First Wheel/Tire!
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File comment: back end set up to fit RCI 15 gallon fuel tank. May shorten it from 30 to 24 inches.
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File comment: Driver side suspension done
driver_side_done.JPG
driver_side_done.JPG [ 396.14 KiB | Viewed 1890 times ]
front_suspension.JPG
front_suspension.JPG [ 467.55 KiB | Viewed 1890 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:17 pm 
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Location: Euless, TX
These pics take us up-to-date


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File comment: All done with the table.
frame_ready_for_ground4.JPG
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ground_1.JPG
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File comment: Happy guy!
ground3.JPG
ground3.JPG [ 453.02 KiB | Viewed 1884 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:16 pm 
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Location: Alberta
rocktman wrote:
Image


Not saying it won't work, but that shock angle looks pretty extreme. Is it greater than 45?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:34 pm 
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Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
Why build one, when you can build two for twice the price? Apparently I need to spend more time over on the UK board though, as I was able to find no dolls with pins in them or plastic body panels. That sure is a classy stand for your bench grinder!
:cheers:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 12:59 am 
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Location: Euless, TX
Re: shock angle. In that pic, the shock is hanging by a zip tie. Depending on the tool I use to measure the angle, I'm either 40 or 43* from Vertical. Steep, but I'm not the only one near 45*.

Looks like the Vodou site is down now. http://www.vodouautokits.co.uk/
Lots of companies are talking about introducing MX-5 kits soon, they were one of the only I found that actually gave out plans. I never found a single car that was actually built from their plans.

I'm looking at shortening my steering rack now, but I can't seem to figure out how short to make it. Perhaps I should ask what the reason is for shortening it. Is the goal to move the boots inside of the body paneling? I'm pretty sure I can mount to the factory mounts as is.
I took the rack apart, and it looks pretty easy to re-thread the end. It's not near as hard as I would expect. I have the factory manual rack, so no power lines to clean up.

Jim


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front-spring3.JPG
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front-spring2 2.JPG
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front-spring.JPG
front-spring.JPG [ 435.05 KiB | Viewed 1816 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 2:08 am 
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rocktman wrote:
Perhaps I should ask what the reason is for shortening it.
To minimize bump steer in the suspension geometry.

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Also follow my build on blogspot, tumblr, or instagram and twitter (GarageOdyssey)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 9:58 pm 
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Driven5 wrote:
rocktman wrote:
Perhaps I should ask what the reason is for shortening it.
To minimize bump steer in the suspension geometry.


Oh I love a simple and easy answer!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 10:32 pm 
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Location: Euless, TX
Well, here's what ~300 Japanese ponies crammed in 1.6L of iron, crammed inside of an American built British Sports car looks like.
Fitment is weird. It's really tight in some spots and gobs of room in others. Turbo clears, but will likely have to come up with different exhaust outlet. Depending on steering shaft location, I might keep it as is, and loop under the steering column.

One pic shows my hand where comfortable shifter location should be. Transmission is about 5" too forward. Might have to do a remote shifter.

I might need to move the bar by the clutch fork, unless anyone knows of a hydraulic throwout bearing for a Miata, like GM uses. I installed one in my Mustang, and it made header fitment so much easier. Or, I might need to move it all forward an inch (but this makes the turbo touch the upper rail).


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engine_temp.JPG
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engine2.JPG
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shifter.JPG
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turbo_tight.JPG
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tranny.JPG
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tranny2.JPG
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clutch fork.JPG
clutch fork.JPG [ 432.51 KiB | Viewed 1752 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:25 pm 
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
It's a shame you can't move the engine back those 5". Not only would that give you more room for the engine, but it'd also give you less complexity since you wouldn't have to build a remote shifter.

Now if you notch that top bar . . . .

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:34 pm 
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Location: Colorado
You could just extend the shift lever up next to the steering wheel for a much more race-inspired feel. Just a thought; shifters don't need to be down at your thigh.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:37 pm 
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Location: Euless, TX
esp42089 wrote:
You could just extend the shift lever up next to the steering wheel for a much more race-inspired feel. Just a thought; shifters don't need to be down at your thigh.


True, but I'm not a fan of the long throw on a long shifter arm.
Jim


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 12:36 am 
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It ain't Locost at $250.00 but. ..

http://miataroadster.com/miataroadster/miataroadster_short_shifter_kits/mrssk5t/i-412194.aspx

Quote:
Product Description

As used in all of MiataRoadster’s sponsored race cars, our shifter is a true short shifter, with the fulcrum point relocated for better leverage and quicker shifts.

No more missed shifts, grinding gears, not being able to “find” the desired gear. With our shifter installed, any Miata transmission will be transformed. You’ll fall in love all over again!

Our exclusive tall/angled style puts the knob closer to the steering wheel so your right hand can stay on the wheel more of the time during aggressive driving. The same shaft can be used for either LHD or RHD orientation.

We also offer a stock height shaft that appears completely stock from above the boot, yet offers the advantages above (except for locating the shift knob higher and closer to the steering wheel).

Or you can have it both ways with the freedom to set any angle relative to the steering wheel: along with one of our stock height shifters, get one of our shifter extensions as shown in the second pic. The regular price for the extension is $35, but it's only $25 when ordered at the same time as a short shifter kit. Before ordering, please CONTACT US to arrange the package deal price.

Check our selection of shift knobs to go with your new shifter. Be careful to select one with M10 × 1.25 threads.

KIT INCLUDES:

• 304 stainless steel shifter shaft with two slots in the fulcrum ball
• aluminum offset collar with two steel dowel pins
• our proprietary “top hat” shaped Delrin tip bushing and fulcrum bushing
• genuine Mazda upper dust boot and lower dust boot, paper gasket, top and side bushings, and wave washers
• (3) Grade 10.9 bolts
• a tube of medium strength “blue” anaerobic thread lock

DISCOUNTS FOR OMITTING PARTS OF THE KIT:

So we can stand behind the performance of our shifter kit, the only part that we are willing to omit from the kit is the upper dust boot, which doesn’t effect the function of the shifter. If you have recently replaced your upper dust boot and want to save $20, before ordering, CONTACT US to arrange a discount.

INSTALLATION MANUAL:

Download the illustrated installation manual which shows the process for an NB. Installation on NA is essentially the same, except because the NA turret has its own oil supply, you have the option of syphoning out the old oil and replacing it with fresh oil.

We recommend ordering two quarts of Red Line MT-90 75W90 GL-4 or similar manual transmission gear oil.

UPDATES TO INSTALLATION MANUAL:

• after the prototypes shown in the installation manual, our shafts are now made of stainless steel and are no longer painted black
• after the prototypes shown in the installation manual, our tall/angled shafts are bent from the base of the neck, not mid-way up
• before shipping, we pre-install onto the shaft the lower dust boot, upper wave washer, upper bushing, and side bushings
• before shipping, we adhere the paper gasket to the underside of the aluminum offset ring

2001 6-SPEED OWNERS PLEASE NOTE:
We’ve determined that Mazda changed the design of the 6-speed transmission in the middle, not from the start of the 2001 model year. This means that early 2001 Miatas have the same 6-speed as 1999-2000 models. So if you have a 2001 6-speed, please check your VIN before ordering our shifter kit because the contents vary. If the last six digits of your VIN are below 220739, order the kit for 1999-2001. If the last six digits of your VIN are above 220738, order the kit for 2001-2005.

HISTORY OF MIATA SHIFTERS:

For NB2 6-speeds, Mazda enlarged the OD of the tip of the shaft (from 15mm to 17mm) and the ID of the hole in the turret (from 19mm to 21mm) vs. all NA/NB 5-speeds and NB1 6-speeds which share the smaller dimensions.

To complicate matters, all NB1/NB2 6-speed shafts have the same shorter distance between the axes of the fulcrum balls and tip balls vs. all NA/NB 5-speeds.

To economize on manufacturing our kits, MiataRoadster uses the same 15mm size tip on all shafts and uses proprietary thicker-walled bushings for NB2 6-speeds.

If you’re swapping a tranny, the VIN riveted onto the side of its case will confirm its source.

To the best of my knowledge, the breaking point between the NB1 and NB2 6-speeds is the VIN ending in -220738. This should apply worldwide.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 12:26 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Euless, TX
carguy123 wrote:
It's a shame you can't move the engine back those 5". Not only would that give you more room for the engine, but it'd also give you less complexity since you wouldn't have to build a remote shifter.
Now if you notch that top bar . . . .


More difficult than this. The transmission is as wide as the space I've left for it. If it came back further, it'd stick out into the passenger area.

The remote shifter isn't a big deal. I saw one on a mustang that'd be pretty easy to duplicate. As I recall, it went something like this drawing. I think he'll be at the racetrack this weekend, and I'll try to get some pics. I'm supposed to race this weekend too, but I can't seem to leave this project alone long enough to fix my other car.
Also, I don't have a seat mounted (or even a seat that fits), so I'm not exactly sure where I'll end up. A thickly padded seat would move me up a couple inches. A thin Ultra-shield is what I have planned so far.


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shifter_relocator.png
shifter_relocator.png [ 13.28 KiB | Viewed 1690 times ]
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