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PostPosted: September 12, 2013, 8:04 am 
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Joined: February 6, 2012, 1:30 pm
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Location: Southern NH
Finished up the tranny tunnel triangulation last night. Looks like I'm finally at the stage where I need to just man up and start on this suspension. Will be nice to get this thing rolling!

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

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PostPosted: September 15, 2013, 9:51 am 
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Joined: February 6, 2012, 1:30 pm
Posts: 200
Location: Southern NH
Hey guys! Finally starting the suspension! Located one of the rear wheels yesterday. A little worried about wheel/tire to frame clearance though. I built the +442 as most of you know, so I lost 2" of clearance immediately. I'm using all the miata gear, and was hoping to not have to buy extended axles. After putting everything where it should probably go, I have exactly 1" of clearance top to bottom, with the cv shaft basically 'stock' length, and the wheel at nearly 0 camber. Is 1" going to be enough to not hit anything on full bump or droop? I'm not sure, but I know the wheels essentially travels in an arc, but how much from max to max are we -really- talking here? I'll be using the GAZ coilovers that most of you use, not sure on rates just yet, but figure typical locost, whatever that is.

I have the opportunity to trade some miata parts for some 1/4" wheel spacers (for the miata). That would make it 1.25" clearance.. is this better/worth it? I feel like I'd probably have to get extended studs as well. I'm not sure what would be a better option, if I need to do anything at all... if using spacers at the wheels is best, or if fabricating some spacers at the differential, and moving the whole of the suspension outboard (or just extending it further). Any thoughts/ideas?

I'm hoping that 1" is/should be enough, and if it just HAPPENS to not be enough, then use the wheel spacers, rather than designing them into it from the start. I just can't actually fabricate any arms until I know what option is the best. I -know- that getting longer shafts would be the -best- option, but my wallet just doesn't agree at all. I mean, I can get 50mm (almost 2"!!) wheels spacers with included lugs for about $120 total. Otherwise we're talking anywhere between 60-100 depending on width. And again, I can get 1/4" spacers right now for free (trade).

This is all with the LCA being level with the ground, and the UCA angled slightly downward (some 10 degrees, I guess). Quickly measuring, it looks about 7" of ride height (I was hoping for more like 4-5"), but that can be slightly adjusted, or.. well.. lived with.

I'm also about to rewire my garage (again), to add more outlets/lights, as well as bring in a dedicated circuit for my welder. Getting really frustrated tripping the breaker multiple times during a project. Ain't nobody got time fo dat!!

In other news, I can't wait to get these wheels refinished!!! Gonna look siiiiick. In the end, the car will be black, hoping to do a bronze center, and polished lip (3.25"!). Have some custom axle nut caps made up with either a BA7 logo on them, or the standard '7' logo. Should look good!

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PostPosted: September 15, 2013, 1:31 pm 
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1" is not too little in the end. However, that all depends upon your setup and control arm design. How much camber gain you have designed in and setting some amount of static negative camber may eat up your clearance. Don't forget that skinning the car and mounting the fenders (lip thickness and bolt heads/washers) will eat up some of that space too.

Before you start cutting steel, mount your brake caliper and brake cables and recheck you design. Don't ask me why..... :roll:

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PostPosted: September 16, 2013, 7:28 am 
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Location: Southern NH
rx7locost wrote:
1" is not too little in the end. However, that all depends upon your setup and control arm design. How much camber gain you have designed in and setting some amount of static negative camber may eat up your clearance. Don't forget that skinning the car and mounting the fenders (lip thickness and bolt heads/washers) will eat up some of that space too.

Before you start cutting steel, mount your brake caliper and brake cables and recheck you design. Don't ask me why..... :roll:


Okay, so 1" -should- be enough, I guess I'll just design it that way and use spacers if necessary to bump the wheels out. Found a place where I can get 3/16, 1, 1.5, or 2" spacers for not a -ton- of money. I'll see if I can get another 1/4" out of the CV shafts without it getting crazy. Figure even at 1/8" skin and 1/8" fender thickness, 1/4" bolt head... that's 1/2" of clearance left over. Obviously, that's not all the way around, or exactly where the wheel will be hitting.

I'll have to check out the brake calipers and all that.. I hadn't thought of it too much. The way the wheel sits, I have a feeling that the caliper will be entirely inside the wheel, so probably won't be a problem.

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PostPosted: September 26, 2013, 3:57 pm 
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Joined: February 6, 2012, 1:30 pm
Posts: 200
Location: Southern NH
Quick update... haven't been working on the 7 too much, but have ordered my DOM from Cohen Steel @

$3.35/ft for 1" OD, .083" wall. Picked up 2 lengths of it, as I believe I need about 24' with room to screw up... the lengths come in random 18'-24', so to be sure you get 24', you have to order 2. SO -- I will probably have some left over if anyone needs some at a discounted rate. I'll let you all know when i'm finished with it. -- So, it should come in anywhere from 36' ($120.60), to 48' ($160.80). Pretty excited!! Now I gotta make/find a fixture to allow me to make a crap load of fishmouth holes.

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PostPosted: October 4, 2013, 10:40 am 
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Joined: February 6, 2012, 1:30 pm
Posts: 200
Location: Southern NH
Drool.

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Picking up a tubing notcher over lunch at Harbor Freight (I know... i know.). For 38$ after discount, who cares if I have to modify it/deal with its shortcomings... it'll be better than using a grinder and file for hours and hours to make all these notches.

So, this thing will -finally- be rolling soon! Then steering and brakes, and I'm gonna roll down my driveway a few times. Hahahaha.

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PostPosted: October 4, 2013, 12:03 pm 
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Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
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Location: Novato, CA
Keep that attitude, Brad! Not much left to do. Trust me, it'll serve you well.


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PostPosted: October 24, 2013, 7:30 am 
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Joined: February 6, 2012, 1:30 pm
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Location: Southern NH
Well, It's been a little while, I've been on/off with the build, as usual. Picked up the tubing notcher from HF - as everyone always says about it, it's flawed. The clamp isn't centered on the saw, so you need to add washers, or a plate to make it work. I added washers for a quick easy fix, and need to add another set, as it's still JUST off. Oh well, for 35$ what do you want! Another caveat of the notcher is the clamp itself. Because it's basically just a big U, rather than a solid block, the tube needs to be at least as long as the clamp itself, plus however long to get it proper for the saw. This isn't a huge problem if you have a 10k sq ft shop you're working in, and can have the full length of DOM tube hanging off the end of this turd, but alas. I've got a tiny one car garage, so I need to cut the tubes, then notch, then cut. So, I'm getting a bit of waste from just needing the tube long enough to be able to be held by the clamp itself. I may fabricate an entirely new clamping system for this notcher. -- Either that, or make the tube a little extra long, notch both sides, and then cut in half - 2 tubes at once. I'll figure it out.

Anyway, the other night I made the outer section of the rear upper control arm. The 'inner' section is really just 2 tubes so its pretty easy, and now I just need to notch two more tubes to connect everything together. And probably a cross tube just to add some more rigidity. Then onto the lower rear control arm. Decided I was going to make one side at a time, that way if the design doesn't work, I haven't wasted a ton of material and time. So, tonight I should finish up one of the upper control arms, and part of the lower (if not the whole lower).

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Here, you can see the U shape of the clamp I was talking about. If this was a solid block w/ V notch, and a wider clamping section, then wouldn't need such a long piece of tubing.

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PostPosted: October 24, 2013, 9:20 pm 
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Joined: September 26, 2009, 8:25 pm
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Location: Park Hills, KY
Would putting a hole saw bit in a drill press work any better?


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PostPosted: October 25, 2013, 8:27 am 
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Location: Southern NH
krepus wrote:
Would putting a hole saw bit in a drill press work any better?


Essentially exactly the same thing. Without a block clamp, it'll be impossible to get anything but a straight 90 degree notch from a drill press. This notcher is made for a drill press or hand drill... I just don't own a drill press, so I clamped it in a vise instead of to a press table. I actually did get it lined up 99.5% perfect. My only issue now is the clamping fixture being 'void' in the middle, so the piece still needs to be incredibly long, especially for an angled notch. That, and It will only notch to about 60 degrees, and already I'm having problems with needing a steeper angle.

Latest notch w/ properly aligned clamp.. you couldn't wish for better:

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PostPosted: October 26, 2013, 9:26 pm 
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krepus wrote:
Would putting a hole saw bit in a drill press work any better?


Check out my log. I did my entire cage on the drill press. The key to doing non-90 degree cuts is to have a drill press where the table can be angled and use an angle finder to correctly set everything.

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PostPosted: October 26, 2013, 10:35 pm 
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Location: Park Hills, KY
Sweet... another tool on the Christmas list...!


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PostPosted: March 7, 2014, 9:00 am 
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Joined: February 6, 2012, 1:30 pm
Posts: 200
Location: Southern NH
Hey guys.. holy late update. - Things have been crazy, most of all - I've moved. In other words, the build was put on a temporary hold while everything was all packed up nice and tight, and moved over to the new house. We are finally in and -mostly- unpacked and settled. Unfortunately, the new house only has a 100A electrical service, and is damn near maxed to capacity. I'm in the process of getting the service upgraded to 200A, and installing a new larger panel to accommodate all of my large tools (compressor, welder, bandsaw, beltsander, etc.). I also need to build a shed to house my lawn mower, snowblower, extra truck tires, engine lift, and all the yard tools which are currently occupying the space I need to build!

I stored the Locost over at my brother in laws during the move, which was a job in and of itself. Lucky for me, it fit perfectly nice in the bed of my truck. The tricky part was getting it loaded and unloaded (x2), with the engine, transmission, and differential still mounted. Holy heavy. But - it's now safe and sound in my new 2 car garage and waiting for the eventual (I hope!!) warm up around here so I can get to work!

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PostPosted: March 7, 2014, 10:12 pm 
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We are Slotus!
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Hey Brad!
Good to hear from you, I had kinda wondered if you gave it up. Glad you didn't. That moving thing do tend to disrupt one's build. When I moved, all I had was a bunch of tubing and one upper control arm, wasn't too tough... Yours was much more complicated. (and heavier!)

Keep after it, and keep us posted!
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: March 10, 2014, 7:55 am 
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Location: Southern NH
Thanks JD! -- Yea, the road I moved to is windy, long, hilly... oh man, driving it in my WRX is exhilarating.. I can't WAIT to finish this thing to really rip! Once I get all this extra crap moved out of my garage, the electrical upgraded.. I gotta start back up on the suspension. Still nervous, but just gotta get to and hope for the best. Haha! I wish I could have someone who's done it, come for a day and just bang it out with me and be done with it, and move on to less... scary... things, like the electrical!

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

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