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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 16, 2012, 6:42 pm 
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I'll repeat the advice I gave earlier: invest in a disc sander. Never never never work on the side of the grinder wheel. They tend to come apart after that kind of abuse!

The diagonal pieces are not on the plans. They are some of the trickiest to measure, and a few have two different compound miters. My approach was to sand a length of filler rod to fit the longest length. Measure angles with a miter guage or protracter, then transfer to the table and miter fence. Sand one end. Cut oversize per filler rod template. Reset table and fence. Sand to fit. If you procede longest first, you get to reuse some of your mistakes.

Plans call for round diagnals. I have no idea how you would keep track of the angles on round stock. I used leftover 3/4 square, welded them flush on the outer side to help support the tinwork.

Lenny


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PostPosted: February 16, 2012, 7:06 pm 
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mcteardrops wrote:
Plans call for round diagonals. I have no idea how you would keep track of the angles on round stock.


drop the round tube on your bench, put a piece of something flat (thinner than the tube diameter) on the bench next to it and bump them up together.
Use the flat piece as a tool rest to draw a line with your sharpie down the length of the tube.
This line becomes your zero point reference, it doesn't have to mark the "middle" since there really isn't one until after you start cutting.
You can then measure everything from the line in degrees or you can guesstimate with a ruler.

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PostPosted: February 16, 2012, 7:12 pm 
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most round tube has a welding seam which is straight down the middle of the tube

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PostPosted: February 17, 2012, 9:04 am 
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I didn't get to work on the car at all last night, but I did get to draw the angles on a scrap piece just to see it come together. It's worth noting that the last two angles are opposite of the first two. Therefore, you'll be adjusting your angle square/protractor 4 separate times. Just thought I'd mention it... most everyone would figure it out when there was no way the last 2 lines would intersect, but hey. Here's hoping that tonight I can get this thing 3D, front assembly done and tacked to the frame, and at least the H tubes mounted to the frame.

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: February 19, 2012, 8:40 am 
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Alright, well got to work on the car a little bit last night.. finished up the front assembly, and got the H tubes cut. Need to even the H's up a little bit, but they are ready to be tacked on. I need to sand down my top tacks and flip the lower frame, tack the bottom, and sand it up flat again still.

Quick question... I know someone said they only final weld some seams if they are going to be covered up by other member (makes sense). Are you counting seams that intersect 3 ways? Such as "Section A" for the H tubes on page.. 16 of the book frame plans, and page 15 of the +442E plans? The H tube intersects with A1, B2, and D1. So there will be a couple 'overlapping' weld seams. Should I final weld the main seams (A1//D1 ; A1//B2), grind them down flat, and then tack H to them? That way I know I have good penetration on all seams, rather than knowing I'm getting a good one on H//B2, but not sure about A1//B2 because i'd only be able to see just the corner of it? If I don't get an answer by the time I get out there (IF I get out there today), I'll just final weld the overlapped seams, and do it the way I think it should be done. The bottom of the frame will be tacked, so the final weld shouldn't distort. Also, I need more 6" C-Clamps. 2 does not cut it.

I've got a donor in the works.. a 95 Miata M-Edition w/ torsen LSD, etc. Front end crashed, cracked radiator, otherwise fine. He seems pretty interested in my project, so I hope that will sort of push him to sell it for a good price, haha. I have no idea what a crashed M Edition is worth... so I'll have to do some more research. I'm also now considering going V8 on this thing. I'm not sure what dropping a solid rear axle into this thing entails, I've read it's 'easier' than doing IRS, but I've never in my life owned anything with a solid rear axle, so I'm not incredibly knowledgeable in the area. I'm a big fan of cars being super nimble, so not sure having a solid rear will be all that great (or the weight of a V8). I've also never owned a V8.. or driven one, aside from a 7.3L Turbo Diesel (I know?), so I expect a ton of torque, but not incredible acceleration. I don't know, I need to research research research! I'm not looking to go 140mph, but I would like a fun nimble mountain road ripper that handles like it's on rails. I live in NH, with one of the best driving roads in the country (Kancamagus Highway), I want to enjoy it.

Anyway... It's 3D!!

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PostPosted: February 19, 2012, 1:50 pm 
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BrokeAssSeven wrote:
Quick question... I know someone said they only final weld some seams if they are going to be covered up by other member (makes sense). Are you counting seams that intersect 3 ways? Such as "Section A" for the H tubes on page..


I don't have the tubes memorized but generally if you can't get to that seam later then yes. If you can get to it later then wait. From what you described there probably will be a covered seam.

I try to avoid grinding welds at almost any cost. Typically I'll use the bench grinder to notch the tube to fit the weld instead.

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PostPosted: February 20, 2012, 12:27 pm 
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I've got the vertical H tubes, rear bulkhead, and passenger compartment side vertical mounts tacked in. I need to cut and tack in the side K1 and K2 tubes for the bulkhead. Then just the upper frame tubes, and the main frame will be completed. I'm thinking I might final weld the main frame before building the rear diff/fuel tank location. That way I can be sure it's nice and straight and flat. If anyone can tell me why this might be a bad idea, please speak up.. otherwise, I see no downside really.

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: February 22, 2012, 6:53 pm 
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Finished up the rear bulkhead and cockpit sides last night. Hit the dentist this afternoon, have a major major headache right now so gonna hold off on finishing up the upper rails until tomorrow night. Getting real real close to picking up a 95 Miata M Edition w/ Torsen LSD. Hope it comes through!

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: February 23, 2012, 7:01 pm 
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It's probably a little late now (wow, you've made lots of progress in just a short time!), but vis-a-vis the .023" welding wire issue, just thought I'd let you know that I use .023 wire exclusively in my welder. My buddy's welder uses .030", and he has trouble working on thinner metals (granted, his is a larger, 220V Miller). When he has something more "delicate" that needs welding, we use my welder with the thinner wire.

That having been said, I've successfully welded 1/4" plate in a single pass, and up to 1/2" in multiple passes, with full penetration, so you won't be much limited with the thinner wire. On heavier steel, I just go slower, and make lots of little joined-together "e"s as I go (deep penetration results!). Ends up looking like TIG welds.

Of course, the heaviest steel I have in my entire build is 1/4" plate (rear roll bar support plates). I suspect that anything heavier might be kind of...heavy...in a Locost :roll:

On thin metal (even down to 22 gauge, if I'm REALLY careful), I can make welds without burn-through. I doubt I could do that with .030 wire.

I'm not a professional welder, of course (amateur, with 30 years experience, though!), so your results may vary...

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PostPosted: February 24, 2012, 4:25 pm 
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zetec, very good information. It's not too late, I've only tacked with the .030 so far. Maybe I'll go out and pick up a spool of the .023 and see whats up with it. Seems a lot of people on here use it, so it can't be that bad!

ANYWAY, HUGE UPDATE.

Picked up a donor. Besides the obvious issues, the car is in pretty good shape. It’s a 1995 Mazda Miata M-Edition. 5 speed, with the 1.8 engine, and torsen limited slip differential. It’s got upgraded interior bits, as well as an upgraded roof and leather seats which I’ll be trying to use in the Seven. Since it’s pre-1996, it’s OBD-I, so I shouldn’t have to worry about emissions too much, and will be easier to mod later on without check engine lights going crazy on me. As far as Miata donors go, this would be THE most ideal one to pick up. Apparently, the head is interchangeable with one from a 99 miata, which is designed for better breathing, so instant power increases. I plan on turboing this motor at some point as well.. and thankfully, since I built the bigger engine bay’d frame, I have plenty of room to do so. Will be going into the BrokeAssSeven stock to begin with.. want to be able to troubleshoot easily and get it running and driving perfectly before I go and screw with it too much.

Anyway, the car was in a front end collision with a tree. The front bumper was demolished, and pushed into the radiator which was then bent and cracked. The motor runs great, and the the car drives fine. The hood is destroyed, and the headlights are a little wonky, but I haven’t had time to really go over the car in detail to see what exactly is or isn’t broken. After I take inventory, then it’s time to start disassembly. It’ll be a tedious process, labelling every single connector/wire as to where it goes, millions of pictures taken, most likely tons of rusty bolts that will break in inconvenient places. Should be a fun time to do in the driveway in New Hampshire in the middle of the winter.

I’ll be finishing the main frame of the BrokeAssSeven before really diving into the Miata though, I want to get this thing really looking like automotive-ish. -- Anyway, Picture time!

Image

If anyone has any idea what brand these wheels are, please let me know. For now, I plan on using them... polishing the lip and painting the center bronze/gold.
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Let me know what you guys think!

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: February 24, 2012, 5:00 pm 
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GOOD SCORE!!! That'll make a perfect donor. As you say, the '99 head fits, and it does increase power. By the looks of things, when you part it out, you'll probably make enough on the leftover parts to pay for the donor... = free donor parts!

The Torsen LSD is a good score, too. You gonna have fun, you bet!

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PostPosted: February 24, 2012, 5:47 pm 
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On the Locouki scale of grading how close tree/pole crashes get to the center of the car I can give you a 8.75 out of 10 (10 being dead center) on the bumper and a what appears to be a 9.7 on the hood! The best I've ever seen was a perfect 10 on the front of the car (the Olds Rocket hood ornament was aimed straight down the center of the impression of the tree) and a 9.8 where the power pole fell on the ROOF mit spitzensparken!

Otherwise it looks like you've got a very good donor there. Unique wheels with two different lug patterns.
Getting it to drive a little before stripping it sounds like a very good plan.

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PostPosted: February 24, 2012, 6:39 pm 
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Excellent. Just excellent. All those great Locost parts in one convenient package. Miatas can take a pretty good whack without a lot of damage to the moving parts. Our local Miata group has several examples of cars that were smashed, rolled, and otherwise seriously crunched that are now back on the road.


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PostPosted: February 24, 2012, 7:22 pm 
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I have a '00 Miata that I use as a daily driver, and I LOVE that car. What it's running gear would be like, in a car that weighs half as much, well.... :D :D :D :D :D :D

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PostPosted: February 24, 2012, 7:58 pm 
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Thanks guys! I've never actually driven a Miata, so I have no idea what I'm getting myself into (as far as fun.. a..tude.. yea, funatude). The radiator is cracked, and doesn't hold coolant.. so I won't be driving this car before it's transplanted into the seven. (Not gonna fix the front end, register the car, and source a radiator for a couple days of fun... just not worth it.) I do love the notchiness of the shiftgate! One of these days I'll drive someones miata to get a feel for what I'll be experiencing (only slower!).

But yea, I'm hoping to sell off enough parts to at least half the cost of the donor. If I can pull off making the full 750 back, then whoa! Good on me! With that cash, and whatever I get for my SVX (oyy), I should be able to pick up most of the misc. pieces I need to finish this car, or at least get it damn close. I haven't sourced the body panels for this thing yet so I have no idea what kind of prices I'm looking at, but I'll get there. I have a feeling the fuel tank will possibly be the most expensive thing on this car, right next to the coilovers (which I also need to figure out where to buy!). I'm thinking buying a fuel tank rather than trying to design and build one would be a much better and safer option.

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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