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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 4:42 pm 
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Your supply is more than enough :shock:
Increasing the line pressure doesn't really lower your CFM, that's limited by the flow rate capability of the regulator and line sizing.
Upper limit CFM capability of particular compressor head is a function of sizing.
I've noticed a rather large variance in flow rates between regulators that were supposedly "the same" numbers with different manufacturors.
You'll notice a similiar change by going up or down one hose size.
As I remember it and someone please correct me if I'm wrong (SOMEONE here must know if this is correct) the flow rate of compressed gases thru an orifice is basically limited to subsonic speeds (on equipment found in most catalogues that is :mrgreen: )
so;
Larger hole = a larger volume flow in a given length of time since flow rate is limited.
As a side note, I performed an oil change on a FedEx compressor using high quality synthetic and noticed it ran faster and quieter afterwards. I bet it drew less power too.......

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 4:53 pm 
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Since impacts only need the pressure in bursts a low CFM compressor is fine, it will just run frequently. The regulator itself always gave me problems. I T'd a line off before the reg on every compressor I've had for everything except spray guns. I had a stock craftsman reg (20 gallon direct-drive) drop from 90psi to 20 as soon as the trigger was pulled with my 1/2" impact. Tank pressure was 120. 20 wasn't enough to break loose hand torqued lug nuts. After the T mod I was breaking 1/2" bolts with ease.

At work we have no regulators, shop air is at 140psi. I have yet to see a tool failure, other than sheared anvils.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:43 pm 
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Location: meadview arizona
as far as the rats nest wiring, lay it out on the floor and as it has specific plugs on the ends, you can plug the components in and arange them where you need them in your particular chassis configuration,

if the lines won't reach to where you need them, just extend that line, do not use crimp connectors if you can solder the joint with a heat shrink sleeve over the joint, crimps are not reliable.

if they are too long, double them up in the harness,

some, you won't need at all.

be careful of shortening certain wires as this changes resistance and can be critical with things like altenators.

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drag racers lament

oh to go down to the strip again where the blacktop meets the sky
all i ask is a small block and some fuel to make her fly
with slicks a smokin pushrods pokin next round i'll get a bye

she's up on song the shift was strong in the finals to boot
it's back to the pits and take it to bits and don't forget the shute
the final round was good and sound so come on give me the loot


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 5:01 pm 
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Location: Southern NH
john hennessy wrote:
as far as the rats nest wiring, lay it out on the floor and as it has specific plugs on the ends, you can plug the components in and arange them where you need them in your particular chassis configuration,

if the lines won't reach to where you need them, just extend that line, do not use crimp connectors if you can solder the joint with a heat shrink sleeve over the joint, crimps are not reliable.

if they are too long, double them up in the harness,

some, you won't need at all.

be careful of shortening certain wires as this changes resistance and can be critical with things like altenators.


I'd never crimp anything that was even slightly exposed to the elements. Since I'll have the entire harness out of the car, any and all joints will be soldered/heatshrunk. I know the dangers :) I personally hate crimp connectors... but when you're under a dash sometimes you don't have a choice. Luckily, that won't be the case here.

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:49 am 
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Always Moore!
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What tool are you using for crimping?

I use this crimper and these splices (18-20 gauge, 14-16 gauge, 10-12 gauge). I've had great luck with them - so far none have failed on several projects.

As much as I hate to admit this the crimper has also done a nice job on the super cheap insulated butt splices you get at the parts store. They're still crap but at least they won't come apart.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:47 am 
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Location: Southern NH
a.moore wrote:
What tool are you using for crimping?

I use this crimper and these splices (18-20 gauge, 14-16 gauge, 10-12 gauge). I've had great luck with them - so far none have failed on several projects.

As much as I hate to admit this the crimper has also done a nice job on the super cheap insulated butt splices you get at the parts store. They're still crap but at least they won't come apart.


I wasn't attacking anyone who does use crimp connectors.. just saying I personally would not, if given the option of being able to solder. Those shrink crimps look nice.. and are $$. I have a couple very nice crimpers, I just prefer soldering if I can. I've got a nice butane powered bluepoint soldering iron... one of the best purchases I've ever made. If I were using a plug in iron.. I'd probably have different views on using crimps HAHA!

As far as what tool I use to crimp.. I use both cheaters and ratchet style w/exchangeable jaws.

Ratchet (not these exact ones): http://tinyurl.com/8xzcjyo
Cheaters (again, not these exact ones): http://tinyurl.com/7v95k37

Oh, and as far as soldering iron: http://tinyurl.com/7gmbac4

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 6:35 pm 
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Weather proof crimp aka aircraft crimp aka marine crimp
Image

After crimping heat to shrink, and it is filled with glue for a perfect seal. The only way to repair wires approved by most OEMs, even for airbag wiring.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:58 pm 
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Always Moore!
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
BrokeAssSeven wrote:

I wasn't attacking anyone who does use crimp connectors.. just saying I personally would not, if given the option of being able to solder. Those shrink crimps look nice.. and are $$. I have a couple very nice crimpers, I just prefer soldering if I can. I've got a nice butane powered bluepoint soldering iron... one of the best purchases I've ever made. If I were using a plug in iron.. I'd probably have different views on using crimps HAHA!


Oh didn't take it as an attack. Sorry if I came off that way. I think you're one of the first people I've ran into that dislikes crimp connectors and actually has a decent crimper. I've heard a ton of people bad mouth them and they're using pliers, cheap stamped "crimpers", etc and can't figure out why splices pull out.

If you have the patience to solder the harness more power to you. I swear I'd go crazy after about 3 wires. For some reason I had no trouble soldering the MS board but I'm terrible at soldering wires. I figure ~$0.60 per splice is worth not having to solder. If I were better I'd probably feel more inclined to solder.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 9:12 pm 
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Location: Raleigh-Durham NC
Of course, gotta have clean wires, proper solder, etc. The object is to heat the wires then melt the solder into them w/ the heat of the wires, not the iron/gun. However, using a drop of hot liquid solder as a way to initially facilitate heat transfer into those wires is sometimes needed to get the wires hot enough in any sort of timely fashion.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:36 pm
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Location: meadview arizona
i used to crimp everything automotive, when i went to work at libramotive i was told that crimping was forbiden and all joints must be soldered now go and do it again with solder this time or i'll cut the wires and you will have to do it again.

it's like screw heads, there are a lot of screw heads on a morgan but the slot in the heads all have to be in line.

i thought this was nonsense but as the years have gone bye i will use crimps on other people's stuff but not on my stuff.

oh and the screw head thing, if you ever come to my shop, look at the wall outlets, the screw slots are all facing the same way, horizontal.

do i have a problem, am i obsesive compulsive,? when i eat my food, i eat all the vegitables first then the potatoes then the meat.

_________________
drag racers lament

oh to go down to the strip again where the blacktop meets the sky
all i ask is a small block and some fuel to make her fly
with slicks a smokin pushrods pokin next round i'll get a bye

she's up on song the shift was strong in the finals to boot
it's back to the pits and take it to bits and don't forget the shute
the final round was good and sound so come on give me the loot


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:30 pm
Posts: 175
Location: Southern NH
john hennessy wrote:
i used to crimp everything automotive, when i went to work at libramotive i was told that crimping was forbiden and all joints must be soldered now go and do it again with solder this time or i'll cut the wires and you will have to do it again.

it's like screw heads, there are a lot of screw heads on a morgan but the slot in the heads all have to be in line.

i thought this was nonsense but as the years have gone bye i will use crimps on other people's stuff but not on my stuff.

oh and the screw head thing, if you ever come to my shop, look at the wall outlets, the screw slots are all facing the same way, horizontal.

do i have a problem, am i obsesive compulsive,? when i eat my food, i eat all the vegitables first then the potatoes then the meat.


Hahah, yea you might be just a littttttle bit OCD, no big deal. If you come to my shop (read: single car garage), look around, and you'll just see a huge massive mess that's driving me NUTS.

So, I haven't stopped working on the project.. just real busy stripping the miata still... only get an hour or so a day to do it, so it's taking a bit of time. I'm down to pretty much nothing besides the motor sitting on the mounts. I'll be cleaning out my storage area tonight to make room for it... then off with the shell, and back to the actual fabrication! Probably another good week out, but hey. I've got someone offering me about 200 for the fuel tank and pump, so I'll probably just end up selling it rather than using it. After getting a good look at the shape of the tank, it's not going to work the way I thought it would. It's backwards from what I had pictured... so the low point of the tank would be over the differential.. and if it's not going to work out the way I thought.. I'm not gonna make it work by extending the whole frame... I'd rather just put the 200 towards a properly fitting safe tank, and a pump that will be turbo capable down the road. If I'm going to do it, I'm going to do it right. The extra fabrication and headaches aren't worth it to me to 'try something new' at this point. Maybe next time, but for this one... gonna go the 'easy' route.

I've got the entire rear subframe off the Miata but am having a bitch of a time getting the PPF off the differential. I've gotten one bolt out (the like.. foot long ones), but the other was giving me tons of trouble.. not moving a budge with the impact at all. Got out my 2' breaker and did just that.. broke it. So, now I've got a loose PPF, that will not come off the diff. Awesome. So that's what I was up to last night... trying to get it off... but still no dice. Not sure what I'm gonna do honestly. It's in a horrible spot that you really can't get to at all.. so we'll see. Bleh.

But right now, my build table has my frame, and nearly every single interior miata part on it. After I clean the storage area, gonna put up some ghetto shelving to house all these damn parts.. because I can't build anything with it all cluttered like this... and the wife is getting a tad upset with the amount of miata that's leaking into the basement haha. Whoops? She'll live.

So that's my update for now... don't want people thinking I've given up!

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-Brad
Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:45 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:30 pm
Posts: 175
Location: Southern NH
Well, finally back in action! Spent a few hours cleaning up, and yesterday got back to fabrication. Finished up the front bracing as per the plans, and started (and nearly finished), the rear end assembly. Just need to build the upper tube and associated bracing, and it'll be done (save for the differential cube). Almost ready to start final welding! -- I do need to put some cross bracing / triangulation on the main frame, so I need to take a look at other build logs to see how others were doing it, but I don't see it being incredibly difficult. Worst part will be figuring out the compound angles without anything to go by. -- I will say this... reading the plans now, I can do compounds no problem! So much easier once you finally 'see the light' and understand what the hell is up with it haha. I'll be purchasing a large stand up belt/disk sander combo unit, so that should make the triangulation fitting much much quicker and easier. As you'll see in the pictures, I didn't go with the round tubing at the back. I don't have the tooling, or the patience to cut a million relief cuts and weld it back together to form a radius. Considering it's not structural, and is only there to help round off the aluminum body panels, I see no detrimental effects of doing it the way I'm doing it. The upper bar will be 3/4" square w/ 45 degree angles in lieu of the 3" radius and 3/4" round stock. My steel yard didn't carry the correct round.. only .83(?) schedule 40 round... I bought it, but meh. I'll use it for something else, or sell it. Like everyone's saying, these care are our own, I don't have to follow the plans to the last millimeter for it to work out just as well as someone elses. If anyone can give me a good reason to use round w/ radii over doing it the way I am/will be, please let me know. -- Bigger update at www.brokeassseven.com, but wanted to let you guys know what was up!

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Oh, and for good measure, and a laugh or two... the most sketchy thing I've ever ever ever done. The guy told me flatbed, then landscape trailer, and showed up with a 6' utility trailer. He also told me he'd have 4 guys to help move it... he was including me, his 80 year old father (who was wicked cool.. mechanic for a lotus europa scca race team in the 70s), and his 7 year old son. Seriously, I can't make this stuff up. Thank god 2 of my friends showed up to check out the Seven... otherwise we'd have been screwed!

Image

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-Brad
Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:09 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Quote:
The guy told me flatbed, then landscape trailer, and showed up with a 6' utility trailer. He also told me he'd have 4 guys to help move it... he was including me, his 80 year old father {SNIP}, and his 7 year old son. Seriously, I can't make this stuff up.


Yo, Brad-
Sounds like a "Team Slotus Moment" to me! Welcome to the club...
Good to hear from ya, frame is looking better and better!
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:41 am 
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Location: Southern NH
As far as frame strengthening goes.... how important are tubes Z and R? They are the cross bracing in the engine compartment, and the differential area. It seems to me that they would just get in the way. Not sure why they are only on one side of each area? Should they not be on both sides, if at all?

Went out and bought a stand up belt/disk sander today.. setting it up tonight.. should REALLY REALLY help with all these compound angled cuts/fitment coming up with triangulation and what not. I'll also be able to cut a little bit bigger and get better exact fitment. I've been pretty damn close with everything so far, and the frame is nearly perfectly square, but this will just make it that much better.

I don't remember asking... but is it cool to final weld the frame at the point where the plans end and the 'custom' stuff begins? ie. the tranny tunnel/diff housing/etc? I would be doing the front triangulation prior to final welding. Or should I really wait?

Oh, and for good measure:
Image
Image

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-Brad
Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 10:16 pm 
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Looks good, Brad. I think the longer you wait to fully weld, the less likely the frame is to move around. Patience is a good thing at this point. It increases your odds of ending up with a straight frame.

The belt sander is excellent. Almost a required tool IMO.

If you're going with IRS, ditch the Z brace. It's only needed to reinforce the Panhard rod pickup on a solid axle. The R-brace is a good idea and would be better if it were on both sides of the engine bay, but a brace on the nearside tends to get in the way of things. You could make a removable one.


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