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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 4:04 pm 
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mcteardrops wrote:
I hate to see this misquoted:
"Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe."

It's "Measure with a yardstick, mark with chalk, cut with a torch, and tune with an axe." Guy I knew racing sprint cars had this lettered on his car, complete with pictographs, after Penske ran him off for doing exactly that!

Not to be confrontational but out of curiosity, I did a google search on "mark with a crayon, cut with an axe.". After looking at 12 pages of search results that had that portion of the phrase in the result they ALL returned "Measure with a micrometer, mark with a crayon, cut with an axe."

So it appears that the quote is of the common usage of the phrase (i.e. not a misquote).

[snip]

I put my motor in before ever seeing a locost in person. Wasn't included in the plans. So I put the motor/bellhousing joint on the firewall, just like Detroit! That's how I came to have the only mid-engined front-motored 7 I've seen.
Obviously you haven't seen a BEC up close. :)

The front of my engine is 13" behind the center line of the front wheels. The front of the engine is located to the rear of the radius of the front tires. The center line of the bearing in the U-joint at the output of the engine is about 1/2" to the rear of the lower part of the firewall. That part of the firewall is located vertically at tube C on the bottom and Q on top.

I'm just teasing you so don't get upset. :cheers:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 4:22 pm 
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+1 on a mockup. I'm 6'0" and 230 llbs and I fit a book frame pretty easily in my 16" Ultrashield Spec Miata seat. But it's all pretty subjective. Some people like more room, I like cars that fit like a glove.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 4:41 pm 
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nick47 wrote:
+1 on a mockup. I'm 6'0" and 230 llbs and I fit a book frame pretty easily in my 16" Ultrashield Spec Miata seat. But it's all pretty subjective. Some people like more room, I like cars that fit like a glove.


If you fit into a book frame with no issues, then I should be good to go. 10-15lbs lighter, same height. I'm very much on the 'fit-like-a-glove' train. I had 4 pt harnesses in my turbo MR2 that i'd crank as tight as i could possibly get, side bolsters as far out as i could, lumber as far back as i could. horrible for posture, but jesus christ i couldn't move a millimeter. It was the best feeling ever.

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 7:01 pm 
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i know a lady in las vegas who wouldn't charge you much to strap you in like that!

on a more serious note, my first locost i built many years ago was like that because the ford escort tranny has the shifter mounted on the top of the case so i set the engine back enough to be able to reach it, i also made the pedal box adjustable because Calvin Lee had really big feet.

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drag racers lament

oh to go down to the strip again where the blacktop meets the sky
all i ask is a small block and some fuel to make her fly
with slicks a smokin pushrods pokin next round i'll get a bye

she's up on song the shift was strong in the finals to boot
it's back to the pits and take it to bits and don't forget the shute
the final round was good and sound so come on give me the loot


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:00 am 
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Location: Southern NH
john hennessy wrote:
i know a lady in las vegas who wouldn't charge you much to strap you in like that!

on a more serious note, my first locost i built many years ago was like that because the ford escort tranny has the shifter mounted on the top of the case so i set the engine back enough to be able to reach it, i also made the pedal box adjustable because Calvin Lee had really big feet.


Haha! Yea, I need to take a look at some more build logs to see where exactly this pedal box is located.

Also, I'm having trouble posting to this thread... I keep getting a weird unknown 404 error and 'no permission to post to blah blah'.. but it's not a forum error, its a server error.

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:01 am 
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"Forbidden

You don't have permission to access /forums/posting.php on this server.

Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request."

For whatever reason, it's only when i'm trying ot post THIS particular message... even copying it out, and copying it back in... in fact.. i had it on THIS reply, and it wouldn't work... but now I bet it's going to.

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:09 am 
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This reply was for a long time ago.. server errors were preventing it being posted.. It's also truncated, because it just WILL NOT post... there is nothing special about it.. no special words, characters, anything.

---

1.) Definitely going to pick up some wood and mock up a book frame and +442 cockpit. Why are there no plans for a +642E which would combine the best of all worlds.. bigger cockpit AND bigger engine compartment?

2.) Measured my civic for my driving position... 40" from front of seat back to pedals, 44" from back of seat to pedals. Stock seat is 20.5" wide, and I fit perfectly fine.

3.) Sat on my build table, I fit fine between the centerline and inside of the outermost frame member. I know the tunnel will affect this, but maybe I'm not as fat as once imagined.

4.) Horizon.. I'll be looking more into the AWD to RWD conversion. I know there is a way... lots of people have done it using the subaru 5 speed transmissions whether they want to be 'cool' with a RWD subaru (they are dumb), or using it for specific racing purposes (drifting, say).

5.) I will not be tracking this car. It MIGHT see an autocross once or twice, but other than that, it'll be used for street cruising and just having a fun quick toy.

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:26 pm 
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Just hit up Home Depot and picked up 2 4x8 sheets of 7/16 OSB, and 10 1x3x8 peices of well.. strapping. Couldn't find any 1x1 stock that wasn't finished and ridiculously expensive. So, these are actually .75x2.75x8, but I'll make it work.

Did a preliminary measure on the EG33 SVX Engine... it's in the car right now, so these aren't accurate, but closeish. The front of the engine is about 32" from furthest point to furthest point.. the back of the engine / valve cover to valve cover is about 27.5", and the whole engine + accessories, back to the bellhousing is about 29". I haven't checked the plans for the +442 or +442E yet for engine compartment dimensions.. but measuring quickly on the drawn out book frame.. the back of the engine will fit within the frame easily, but the front will stick out significantly.

On top of everything else, I need to be aware of how close the rear of the front wheel will come to the frame / engine when in full lock. The last thing I need is to turn to full lock and be ripping out the plug wires and polishing the valve cover with the inside of my tire.

Thinking far ahead is a burden and a blessing... on one hand, it'll save me headaches.. on the other, its making this process take forever. That's okay, i'm probably way way wayyy better off.

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:57 pm 
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I'm pretty sure that slapping some stuff together with scrap wood or "strapping" etc. is quicker then doing it on a computer. It will also pay off big time in the long run. Especially with an unusual motor etc. Sorry about the RWD mistake, maybe my recollection is faulty - but I thought there were issues.

I would second some one else's suggestion. Save the motor for another project, it would make a great midi. You can get perfectly good Duratec, Zetec etc. for $500 or less and plenty of others if you like.

Good luck either way though. :cheers:

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:34 pm 
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No reason to be sorry... I'd rather someone say something they may or may not have heard before than not say anything at all.

I will definitely be taking a look through your sketchup models.. I've never used sketchup before (well, ok, when it first came out i messed around with building blocks and stuff haha), but aside from that, nothing. I've been using AutoCAD for the past some 12 years, 10 professionally. Trying to get into solidworks, but its a slow process... none of my personal computers can handle it, so that leaves my work computer... which is always tied up for work! Some day... -- Oh well, yea, messing with the wood with at least let me see if I'll somewhat fit into each of the frames, so that's good. I hope I fit into the book frame... it's all drawn out and ready to go. Though.. I'm not that great at woodworking, so we'll see how it actually turns out.

Yea.. I mean, I'm not dead set on using the EG33. It's just a thought to keep this as locost as possible, since I already own it.. and the car itself is a junkbox. Was hoping to at least keep part of it going. My original original plan was to build a middy with the EG33, converted tranny to FWD and build a sort of Superlite Coupe - ala: http://superlitecars.com/wp-content/upl ... 00x225.jpg ... but figured without any instruction, that building a locost 7 as my first home built car made WAYYY more sense. I've just got a lot going on in my head right now.. and with wanting to expedite this process (i wanna drive this thing!), it makes it even more difficult.. because I know I can't rush the process.

Anyway.. since I'm in a sort of.. holding pattern right now, last night I decided to practice welding as it's been a while. I used the new bandsaw to cut off a couple 4" lengths of the 3/4x3/4 steel stock (which worked AMAZING by the way... no sparks, no noise (well noise, but very quiet for what it was), cut straight, very happy. I picked up another blade from home depot @ 24tpi .. I don't know what the stock HF blade comes with, but I didn't want to be left in a lurch when this one breaks. It's some "american _____" brand.. I need to look for whatever brand everyone here suggests and order a couple. --- For that matter, does anyone know what speed I should have this thing on to cut 16g square stock? I have 3 options.. 80fpm, 120fpm, and 200fpm. I was using 120 last night, seemed to work well, took a little bit of time, but wasn't sure on what I was 'supposed' to be using.

So the welding went pretty well. I was used to getting the wire stuck to the work peice, cutting it off, starting over... but not this time. Went perfect, tacked, then fully welded. I then ground it all off flat just to make sure it penetrated well and wasn't just on the surface. I think I saw one small area that could have used another going-over. Overall, pretty happy with how the first weld in a LONG time went. Brings the confidence level up for building my own frame! I might slow the wire speed a little bit so there isn't as much build up on the top.. but going to continue practicing to get the absolute perfect settings for when I go ahead and start welding the actual frame. I don't want to be 'practicing' on a real work piece! Onto the pictures! If you see something weird/wrong, let me know. Remember this was just practice, and 'getting used to it' again. I am in no way a professional welder, so please, any input is good!

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Also, updated the website. I hope people are still checking it out! More info/pics there always.

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 5:43 pm 
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I'm no professional welder, but that looks like it needs more heat. Remember, turning down the wire speed decreases the heat, I'd turn it up (probably the power too) and weld faster.

Looking forward to the EG33, I've always thought they were neat motors.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 5:58 pm 
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Hm, didn't think of that. I've got a weldmark hobart 120v mig welder... setting 35 speed / 3 (of 4) heat. I'll try a little faster, a little slower tonight and see what results I get. Gonna bring home my 'welders handbook' tonight and read a little bit.

Yea, still undecided on the EG33... It's a cool motor for sure, but it's rather huge wide-wise for this frame. At least the book frame. All i know is that it gets the 3500lb SVX out of its own way, and quick! Might have a hard time keeping the brokeassseven's rear tires planted!

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 6:08 pm 
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Now break the weld or cut right through the weld and see how it looks.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 12:03 pm 
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Does anyone know about how wide at the outer edges the transmission tunnel on a standard miata build is on tube "C"? I'm currently building the compartment out of wood.. and would like to see how much room there is in the foot wells. Or at least as accurately as I can. But since the plans don't help with the tranny tunnel at all, I need all your help!

I have the tranny tunnel at about 6" wide, running down the middle of the car (I got this from the typical 17" seat width on a book frame). The mock up is coming together pretty well.. I just need the frontal area of the tranny tunnel dimensions. I know the angled pieces come from the widest points on "C" back to "B2" and then go straight back (where I've got it at 6" wide). Hopefully someone can get this answered in the next couple hours!!

I'm looking to finish these cockpit mockups this weekend, as I'm taking next wednesday off of work to really crank on the real frame, so I'm hoping to have which frame decided by then!

Also, does anyone know where I can pick up all these books people are reading about the replica 7s? I think I searched for colin chapmans book but it was ridiculously expensive, only available used and most likely destroyed.

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Build Log: http://www.BrokeAssSeven.com -- http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13293

This build is already locosting a fortune...


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 6:02 pm 
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BrokeAssSeven wrote:
.... Also, does anyone know where I can pick up all these books people are reading about the replica 7s? I think I searched for colin chapmans book but it was ridiculously expensive, only available used and most likely destroyed.
I have a book ("Lotus Seven" Restoration-Preparation-Maintance, by Tony Weale, ISBN 1-85532-153-X) that is very good and gives lots of detail about the original Lotus 7s up until 1985. Unfortunately it is now out of print. :cry:

But if you see one for sale on the web at a reasonable price I would highly recommend getting it. There's nothing like going to the original source for background info. I just looked on Amazon and the price was definitely NOT reasonable at $261 ! Although a new copy of Ron Champion's 1st book was even more outrageous at $437 !!

Through the years I've had very good luck with the descriptions given on Amazon.

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http://dmr-architect.com/~locouki/


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