LocostUSA.com

I guess it’s high time I start a build thread and introduce myself. I’ve been spying on you guys for a few years now, broadening my appreciation for the 7 and enjoying all of your creativity. I come from a mostly Datsun background. Started wrenching on early Z cars in 1988, and dabbled in a couple of 510’s as well. A couple of years ago I began constructing a Locost frame for a BMW S52 drivetrain. Got about ¾ of it tacked together… and then sold it to another member here. I went dormant while he completed the car. After which, he offered me the ‘keys’ and I met up with him at a Packwood autocross event. I’ve been autocrossing on and off for roughly 20 years, driving nearly every type of vehicle I could get my hands on. In short, the Sevenesque car was flat out the most capable and entertaining autocrosser I have ever driven. This rekindled the fire and got me building another frame, albeit less ‘pure’ than many other 7’s, but I’m convinced I won’t be able to cease smiling once it’s complete… and that’s the goal.

Frame size is a 442E narrowed 2” from tip to tail.

I’ll let pictures fill in some of the blanks…





















Button clutch shaved over 38lbs off a stock clutch/flywheel and allowed me to move the motor rearward and downward 2” with no other change to the frame. It means I’ll have to get creative with the oil pan, but the reward will offset the effort - or so I read somewhere…

is that a noose in the background?



beautiful work as always, very much looking forward to watching this progress

nice build! good looking cuts/fits.

tube size and wall thickness?

rear axle is????

like the clutch/PP/fly wheel...that should rev quick!

Great work on the frame and packaging. It looks well thought out.

LOL, I believe it is... a reminder to keep me on my side of the shop...

What are you using to make your cuts?

Packwood autox?...Does that add another Washingtonian to the list?

That's a very nice looking start to your frame...Although it's a shame about the Tilton* reverse starter kit you got stuck with.










*Coming from somebody with an obvious Quarter Master bias.

Less messy than a bullet. Yes BRAAP, that’s ‘aimed’ at you


I rough cut the length and angle with a sawzall, then put it in a vertical mill w/angle base vice and machine it to finish size, then debur with a file.



Certainly more tedious than some other methods, but the precision is high. Both frames were 3D modeled and every tube is cut based on the model, not the physical car. Both frames have been dimensionally consistent with the model - enough so that I would not hesitate to laser cut a frame once the design has been finalized.


Northern Oregon. Sandy to be exact. Guess I need to update my profile.


Well, we can’t all be perfect Honestly, this will be my first go with a button clutch/rear mount starter, so I’m destined to get an education.


The primary tubes are all 1”x1”x16ga. or 1” Rnd x 16ga.
Trans tunnel is ½”x1”x16ga.
Tube B2 is 2”x1”x16ga.


What’s pictured is a Datsun R200. However, since those pictures were taken I have lopped off everything behind the rear bulkhead and set a C4 Corvette rear suspension (Dana 44/ 3.07 gears) up on the table. I didn’t want to post any pictures until I get some of the frame built for it.

That little 5.5" setup should definitely be lively. I'm sure you'll be fine, although you're right that it maybe a bit of a surprise initially. Just remember to slip the tires rather than the clutch. I take it this is going to be a dedicated and trailered autox toy?

I like where this is going. Would you mind posting more details about the clutch, flywheel, and bell housing? I'm in the middle of a trans swap an I am looking for the same parts for a LS2/Muncie combo.

Thanks
Ken

Very nice build, I like some of your departures from the book chassis. Keep up the good work.

The car is intended to be used as much on the street as the track. I deliberated quite a lot over the clutch, knowing that they’re not terribly street friendly. The combination of moving 1/3 of the entire weight of the car significantly rearward & downward, and reducing the rotating mass by nearly 40 lbs, convinced me that the dividends outweighed the inconvenience, or so I hope. With the car being so light and the motor so oversize, I’m banking on it being not quite as rude as installing one on a typical production car.


Thank you. The changes made sense to me at the time. Hopefully I’ll still feel that way once it’s completed.


The part number is 52-33130. That includes everything you see in the above picture. About the only thing missing from the kit is a pilot bearing. It’s a triple disc 5.5” clutch and bellhousing built for an LS motor and a ‘traditional’ American transmission, with a 26-spline input shaft.

Ron,

Great looking build, especially the LS motor part I'll be following your install and especially the streeetability of the button clutch. For oil pan options check this thread http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-h ... -pans.html
IIRC, the shallowist pans are the Corvette wet-sump and dry-sump pans. I think both have the same depth, 5" below the bottom of the block. The bottom of the bellhousing runs lower but may be trimable with the button clutch/flyweel set-up.

If you are still looking for a C4 IRS, I have a very nice, complete C4 Dana 36 3.07 unit I'm selling. Lighter than the Dana 44 and plenty strong for a light-weight car, even with the big motor.

What header is shown in the pic? It looks like a nice fit in your chassis. I will be looking for something similar.

I drive I-84 up the Gorge when the river gets warmer and the wind blows. I'd love to stop by and see your build.

Ummmmm, Ron... Stop following me around man. You might know me better as Drax240z

Oh no... I didn't know Paul was coming over here too... this should be interesting.