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I finally got some time in the garage this weekend. I made a bunch of progress but also ran into some trouble.

After some grinding, welding and shim making, the differential is finally installed.







I bailed on the MNR pedal box. For one, I didn't like the build quality. Second, MNR's plan for the kit is to use the Miata's brake master and brake proportioning valve. The problem with that is the Seven is rear heavy and will need different proportioning than the Miata. Finally, the clutch master cylinder they included has a fitting at a goofy angle that would interfere with the brake master. All of that added up to me sourcing my own pedal stuff. I turned to Wilwood and got some nice aluminum bottom mount pedals and master cylinders.

Brake pedal installed


Dual brake masters installed


I was able to run the fuel lines and rear brake line through the tunnel


Running the fuel lines past the transmission mount is tricky. They have to go from side-by-side to over-under in order to provide enough clearance.


I guess most people rivet the p-clips. I'm terrified of the day I'll have to pull the lines and drilling out a ton of rivets is a nightmare. So I went with these self-tapping sheet metal screws. They worked great.

I ran into some trouble installing the a-arms. The short of it is the bushing tubes aren't co-axial. So I can get one bolt through the frame clevis and the bushing, but the other one is a no go. I can drill out the holes in the clevises (clevi? what's the plural of clevis?) but I worry that while that will allow me to get the bolts through, the a-arms will bind as they attempt to rotate.

Which leads me to another question. If I tighten the bolts down the clevises will pinch the sleeves that run through the bushings. This means the sleeve won't rotate, and the bushings will have to rotate around the sleeve. I think this is the design intent. But if they aren't co-axial, I'll get binding for sure.

Suggestions? I'm pretty sure the clevises on the frame are at least co-axial.

Example 1, far shot


Example 1, left bushing. Not completely flat, but pretty close. The bushing itself is keeping the ruler from following the metal.


Example 1, right busing. You can see what I mean pretty clearly.


Example 2, These are at least parallel, but the axes are off by about 3/16".

Yo, Jake-
Could you do a little bending on those bushing tubes, make 'em line up? Perhaps somewhere with a press could help out??? I wouldn't advise heating them, might make things brittle after cooling. I'm not sure bending them is the best way to go, just tossin' out an idea.

Maybe if we wait a few minutes one of the smart kids will answer...


JDK

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

I definitely don't qualify as a smart kid. Still waiting on one of those to comment.

But I'd be doing my best to make my problem more of MNR's problem.

Contact them and see what they say about A-arms that don't work / look the way they're supposed to. Raise a little stink if you need to.

After all, you sent them a nice stack-o-money for some nice parts, not crappy parts!

JustDreamin'

I agree with JustDreamin, you should expect better parts than that. However it's not the end of the world. I've done more than a few suspensions where the bushing tubes didn't quite line up.

One of the bushing tubes will line up better than the other, i.e. a long rod through the "good" tube will come closer to the hole in the other tube, even if it won't go through. Install the "bad" tube first, then use the leverage of the A-arm to line up the good tube. This isn't ideal, there'll be some preload in the bushing, but the bolts will still be lined up and the arms will move up and down through the proper axis.

But see if you can get some better parts first. In any event I wouldn't drill anything out or heat anything up.

Definately bring this to MNR's attention, send them these pics and descriptors. I'm sure they will want to resolve this problem especially when you mention to them this is posted on "THE" one and only builders website for all to see and judge.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

I contacted MNR about it. They were as surprised as I was. They use a jig to manufacture the arms so it's strange that mine would come out poorly. Paul (also on the forum here) said his went together relatively easily except for chasing out some of the powder coat on the frame's clevises. MNR is curious what has gone wrong with mine and is paying to have them shipped back to the UK so they can figure it out, rework them, and / or make new ones.

I tried the fronts too and only 1 of those 4 fit.

Anyway, it's not holding me up yet. There is a TON to do before I really need control arms. I ordered a bunch of fuel fittings and lines to connect the tank, filters, pump and engine. That's the next thing on the list. Then I'll probably get the clutch master and lines sorted. Then . . . then . . . then . . .

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

I've been working on things here and there and making OK progress. I spend a lot of time planning and figuring things out. The first stage of assembling something always seems to be trying it, finding that it doesn't work or that I'm missing something, figuring out how to make it work or what I need to order, order it, then wait for it to arrive, and finally finish the item. So I have a lot of things mocked-up and partially finished. But few things actually done.

I got the front brake T mounted and the front side pipes shortened. I tilted the front T so the side pipes can be routed one over and the other under the bolts for the coil-overs.


Got the front rockers installed. They pivot on needle bearings, and there are thrust bearings in there too which is a nice touch. I applied some grease before bolting to the frame. I ran into trouble getting the push-rods into the rockers though. The bushings MNR supplied to pick up the spherical bearing were too long. As you can see below, I got one installed. But there is no way the other is getting in there.


Luckily, I have a crappy lathe in my basement and I was able to take off material to get everything to fit.




It took longer than I was hoping, but the rockers are on!

The fuel tank is going on smoothly. Got the straps bent and the holes for the fuel level sender drilled.


The fuel level sender was one of those things I spent some time figuring out. The one included in the kit goes from 262ohm empty to 19ohm full. The ZX12 level sender, and I'm using the ZX12 instrument panel, goes from 124ohm empty to 9ohm full. If I don't do anything and just hook it up, the bike's fuel level gauge will read empty when the tank is only half empty - and then I won't really know when the tank is actually empty. So I'll need some kind of resistor network to get the kit sender closer to zx12 sender. I played with the values for a minute, but simply a 220ohm resistor in parallel with the sender will yield 120ohm empty and 17.5ohm full. That's about dead on what the bike is expecting for empty but it's a little shy of full. That's ok, I don't need to know the tank is full, I need to know when it's getting empty.

I started into the steering system. I got the rack mounted without too much trouble. I had to widen a slot in the frame, but not a big deal. It looks really nice in there. I started modding the steering column too. The front supports have to be cut off and a tube welded on.



Yeah, I'm not a great welder. Hence buying the kit! I got some decent penetration at points, so I'm ok with using it. MNRs idea for the other mounting point is much the same. But my rack already had these ears on it. So I can bolt the rod-ends right to it with simply some spacers in between.



I grabbed a seat and threw it in the car. I'm trying to get an idea of where all the user controls end up. The pedals more or less drive the sitting position. That sets the seat and that sets the steering wheel. So I was anxious to try everything. I think it's turning out well.

With the pedals, seat and steering wheel positions set, I threw in the transmission to see where I wanted to put the shifter.



I wanted the shifter just a little further back, maybe 3/4". But I realized my first interference. The clutch throw-out arm will contact the firewall if I put the transmission where I really want it.





So the trans ends up where it ends up. The shifter position isn't bad - it just could be a little better. But now that the transmission is in, I can finally put the engine in and make sure it doesn't have any interferences . . .

Let's get chained up.





Ready for lift off. I know! The C-clamp is sketchy. But this is no iron block 454.


We're airborne.


Open wide!

This was a near "Oh Sh*t!" moment. When I was noticing the throw-out arm contacting the firewall, I realized the slave cylinder extends toward the engine . . . and I already had to trim the tabs off of the timing chain cover . . . which is right near the slave cylinder . . . so it was going to be close.



I put slots in the transmission adapter plate so I could "clock" the engine. With it clocked all the way CCW (you can actually see the slots with the bolts all the way to one side in the images of the engine going in), there is about 1/4" of clearance to the bleeder screw.

A few other minor things, but overall, the engine will fit. Phew!

The oil filter is going to stick through the bodywork. Not a big deal. This is just aft of the front right suspension. There will already be a bunch of holes there and it will be mostly hidden by the front wheel.


The exhaust ports are pointed just under the frame rail. I'll still need to be a little tricky with the exhaust. But it should work ok.


The ZX12 has a deep portion in the sump where the oil pickup is. It sticks far below the frame rail. I learned of this little hang-up a little while ago when I first test-fit the transmission. I took some rough measurements and it was clear that the sump was going to hang below the frame. I ended up getting a swinging pickup sump for it. Cheaper than dry-sump, and it should be plenty reliable.