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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 21, 2012, 7:54 am 
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We are Slotus!
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SkinnyG - I'll be in Kelowna next weekend. Would love to be able to show my GF that these cars do actually exist on the road. Would you care to show off your creation?


Careful, Dude... She may decide to go home with the guy that has a finished car.... :shock:

:rofl:

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PostPosted: May 21, 2012, 11:28 am 
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Posthumane wrote:
SkinnyG - I'll be in Kelowna next weekend. Would love to be able to show my GF that these cars do actually exist on the road. Would you care to show off your creation?


You bet. I love showing it off. I sent you a PM with my phone number.

The GF ain't going home with the guy that has a finished car. She gets a kick in the bum bum if she's that shallow. My wife was super supportive through the whole build, and every time I drive it I am reminded why I am so thankful to have her as my wife. :D

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PostPosted: May 21, 2012, 12:07 pm 
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Location: Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada
Pics as promised. Here is the rear section, more or less complete. For the lower curved pieces where the bodywork attaches, I just used a strip of 1" wide sheet (about 18 or 20ga, I'm not sure) as it was easier to bend in a 2" radius than a round tube. It's not very stiff, so I will probably have to add a small gusset to support it.
Image

We added the front suspension support tubes and the S/T diagonals, as well as the O1 and O2 diagonals in the rear. I decided to keep the rear bulkhead diagonals symmetrical as they are close enough to the offset transmission tunnel uprights that bending won't be too much of an issue, and I have the option to move the side of the tunnel back to a normal position if I decide to switch axles.
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Here's my friend and his driver test fitting the frame:
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Thanks for looking and providing support, everyone. SkinnyG, I'll give you a shout when I'm in town!


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PostPosted: May 21, 2012, 9:25 pm 
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I want to see how you attach those wheel pants that are hanging on the wall to the front suspension!

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PostPosted: May 21, 2012, 9:27 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
I want to see how you attach those wheel pants that are hanging on the wall to the front suspension!


Well, those might be a bit difficult. They are designed to go around 6x6.00 tires, which wouldn't be the best thing for handling.


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PostPosted: May 22, 2012, 2:17 pm 
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Posthumane: Could you post an accurate measurement of the offset of the center line of the Ranger pinion please.

The rough measurement I took off of a neighbors 1986 truck is 1.875" which seems a little high to me.
TNX

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PostPosted: May 22, 2012, 5:46 pm 
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Sure, I can try to get one tonight. Your figure does sound about right though, I ended up offsetting my tunnel 2" on the passenger side.


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PostPosted: June 3, 2012, 8:52 pm 
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Feels like I haven't made much progress over the last couple of weeks, although I've been trying to work at it when I can. Most of the time has been taken up actually welding all the tubes I have tacked in to get the basic frame more or less done. I left out the tubes in the engine compartment for the time being, as those are probably going to go in later on so I can link them to the front suspension tubes and engine mounts properly. I still haven't figured out how to weld the acute angle joints very well yet. It seems like I can't get enough heat in there and end up making a mess. Still more learning to do, I guess.
Image

I also stripped the rear axle, and drew up a template for the mounting tabs to put on it. The ones I drew are a little different than the book ones - they are tabs that weld to the top and bottom of the axle, each about 1/4 circumference around the axle, instead of going around the back side of the axle like the book. I'm hoping this way I can avoid adding toe out to the rear axle which I'd then have to re-warp out.
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I'll throw in a pic of the rear axle measurements. The axle is 51" from one brake backing plate to the other, so the centre is at 25.5". The pics show the offset of the pinion.
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PostPosted: June 4, 2012, 9:31 pm 
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Thought I should also mention in here, a special thanks to SkinnyG! I was in his neck of the woods a couple weekends ago, and got my first ride in a real Locost. Now I'm really hooked! I actually had never seen a lotus 7 style car in person before that, so I'm glad that it turned out to be just as great a car as I had expected.

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Hope you don't mind me posting a picture of you SkinnyG.


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PostPosted: June 4, 2012, 9:59 pm 
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Posthumane wrote:
Sure, I can try to get one tonight. Your figure does sound about right though, I ended up offsetting my tunnel 2" on the passenger side.
By putting a right angle plastic drafting tool on the bottom of the monitor centered on the pinion it looks like the pinion is offset ~1.8125".

Shucks that's even more than I measured which was too much for my present tunnel. I'd have to weld in a piece of square tube to the right of the offending tunnel tube and then cut that tube away near the pinion flange.

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PostPosted: June 4, 2012, 11:47 pm 
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Posthumane wrote:
Hope you don't mind me posting a picture of you SkinnyG.


I'm obscured enough it's fine. And you can even see chassis #2 in the background....

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PostPosted: June 5, 2012, 12:32 am 
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From memory the Ford 8.8 has a 1.75" offset and the 7.5 has a .75" offset. I think older Rangers has the smaller axle, but don't know the track dimensions...

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PostPosted: June 5, 2012, 10:36 am 
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horizenjob wrote:
From memory the Ford 8.8 has a 1.75" offset and the 7.5 has a .75" offset. I think older Rangers has the smaller axle, but don't know the track dimensions...
The 8.8 is just too much axle & weight for me. The Mustang rear end would probably be OK for a +4 width chassis but way to wide for a book chassis.

I've got some of the common 7" & 7.5" rear end dimensions (Ranger, Mustang, Volvo etc) on my website but it's not always easy to figure out the offset when crawling under a car in a muddy junk yard. :ack:

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PostPosted: June 15, 2012, 11:22 am 
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How does the offset work, and why would you want to offset it?

Does the motor and DS have to be offset also so the tranny and driveshaft line up straight to the diff?


Bob


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PostPosted: June 15, 2012, 2:35 pm 
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bevins wrote:
How does the offset work, and why would you want to offset it?

Generally the manufacturer of the rear end builds the offset in as part of the design. For our cars it would be ideal to not have any/much offset so the seats could be the same width.
but
Depending upon how thick the crown gear is and how it's mounted to the spider cage would be some of the reasons the pinion ends up offset. In an effort to have the axles the same length (which would help reduce torque steer etc) the internal parts in the housing get moved around in the design. This generally results in pinion offset.


Does the motor and DS have to be offset also so the tranny and driveshaft line up straight to the diff?
Bob
Common hearsay says yes but as long as the flanges on the transmission and rear axle are parallel and not offset more than some amount of degrees depending upon the maximum speed the drive shaft is going to rotate you should be OK. As long as the flanges are parallel the offset can be vertical AND horizontal if necessary.

You also should have a small amount of offset so the bearings in the joints can exercise slightly to keep them lubricated, 3° or so is OK. We had a big discussion about offset on the forum a month or so ago.

I found a lot of info on the web by going to a few of the universal joint manufacturers websites. That's where you will find the max. offset the flanges can be depending upon the U joint design etc.

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