LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently September 24, 2018, 6:22 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 67 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: October 3, 2012, 10:10 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 8, 2012, 2:34 am
Posts: 285
Location: Niagara on the Lake Ontario Canada
...one of the other build logs has great photos of a remote shifter....(sorry...not sure which).... am sure someone will post a link.....

_________________
gblawson (Gordon)
......................................................
http://gblandco.com/gb/cent/cent.html


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: October 10, 2012, 11:45 am 
Offline

Joined: October 1, 2012, 12:26 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Euless, TX
Well, the guy didn't show up, but I remembered the brand name of the shifter. It would be easy to copy.
http://www.mustangsplus.com/catalog/drivetrain_09.pdf


Attachments:
image.jpg
image.jpg [ 139.37 KiB | Viewed 2197 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: October 10, 2012, 12:44 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:10 pm
Posts: 2916
Location: Oregon, usually
Man, I sure wonder how the designer determined that a bolt in single shear was the optimal single plane pivot (he said, dropping terms vaguely remembered from Aircraft Structures 101). Looks okay for a drag car, or anything else that going to be shifted less than 500 times in its working life.

_________________
Locost builder and adventurer, and owner/operator of http://www.kineticvehicles.com


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: October 10, 2012, 1:37 pm 
Offline
Automotive Encyclopedia
User avatar

Joined: December 22, 2006, 2:05 pm
Posts: 5696
Gblawson wrote:
...one of the other build logs has great photos of a remote shifter....(sorry...not sure which).... am sure someone will post a link.....


It's nearly 5 years old now, but I've drawn a couple more since then:

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=3638&hilit=remote&start=15

As for Jack's concern, The shifter bolt may be shouldered for a positive stop.

_________________
MV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: October 15, 2012, 6:07 am 
Offline

Joined: March 18, 2010, 5:20 am
Posts: 86
Location: New Zealand
JackMcCornack wrote:
Man, I sure wonder how the designer determined that a bolt in single shear was the optimal single plane pivot .

I have to agree, a clevis arrangement at either end would both look better and work better as you want as little play as you can get at those points.
Bruce


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: October 15, 2012, 10:12 am 
Offline

Joined: October 1, 2012, 12:26 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Euless, TX
Definitely, a Clevis would be better. I've made one bending moment design faux pas in my career...from now on, double shear all the way.
I'm thinking of using some circle-track turnbuckles for the horizontal piece. Then, put a series of holes in the secondary shifter handle. This would allow me to adjust the shifter ratio until I find something I like. The extra holes would look like lightning holes, and be racey.

I've just returned from overseas business, and I'm eager to get back into the garage.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 3, 2012, 5:42 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 1, 2012, 12:26 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Euless, TX
It's been a while since I've posted any progress pics. Still don't have any (garage is too dang messy). Got a lot of stuff in flux, though.
Mounted 1 seat. Steering rack shaft is on it's way from my machinist. Intercooler is at my aluminum welder, having tabs added (can't believe it had no mounting tabs at all). Brakes are 70% plumbed. Pedals and radiator are installed. 4-point seat harnesses are 50% installed. Roll bar 50% complete.
I've received my fenders and nose. Still waiting on my scuttle that was ordered a LOOONG time ago.
This week, I'm supposed to receive my other seat, driveshaft, intercooler piping, intercooler, scuttle, wheels/tires, and modified fuel tank.

I realized that there isn't room for the e-brake cables as I've built it. I'm going to have to swap driver & passenger hubs, and run the cables out the back. This will require that I relocate the upper arm mounts, and the shocks. An unfortunate pain in the butt that I should've caught earlier.

I'm hoping to have it driving down my block by year's end.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 12:25 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
Posts: 1484
Location: Louisville KY
Okay, my liberal arts engineering degree ("Use of Brass Shields to Set Fire to Ships in the Harbor 101", along with "Feminist Critique of Medieval Plumbing 104b" plus an internship in "That Looks About Right Engineering") has left me wondering how that Restomod shifter works.

The fore and aft (uh, towards the dash and towards the butt) axis is simple enough. However, unless you've gone to a sequential shifter, there is an rotational side to side, left-to-right thing going as you move from gate to gate. And quite frankly, I don't see that working.

But it shur is purty....

I'd think that you'd want to take that round shift rod that runs inside of the T5, extend it beyond the back of the case somehow, and connect that to the new shift stick?

_________________
***************
Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 12:49 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: April 12, 2010, 5:40 pm
Posts: 2081
Location: san francisco bay area
geek49203 wrote:
"Feminist Critique of Medieval Plumbing 104b"
:rofl: I get it!! Ooooh that may not be so good. ..

geek49203 wrote:
However, unless you've gone to a sequential shifter, there is an rotational side to side, left-to-right thing going as you move from gate to gate. And quite frankly, I don't see that working.

An other point in which a clevis pin would be a better choice. The shoulders of the individual components are expected to handle the (lateral) command point movement, not such a positive action in single shear but definitely repeatable in double shear. It will still rely on the shoulders of the forward link acting against the shoulder of the shifter arms (being the actual point of force application) but two reference points are better than one for control mechanisms.

_________________
"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 12:49 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 1, 2012, 12:26 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Euless, TX
I agree that it doesn't seem like the restomod shifter should work, but I've used it, and it does.
I'll definitely use a clevis on each end, as has been suggested.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 1:29 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
Posts: 1484
Location: Louisville KY
The Camaro T5 has the shifter at the end of the trans, some 10" back of the S10 position (and well behind the Mustang location too).

Granted, the bell on that Camaro unit is tilted, and hence the rear mount on that Camaro t5 is also tilted, but it might negate the need for an extension?

_________________
***************
Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 3:05 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 1, 2012, 12:26 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Euless, TX
I'm not sure how we got off-tangent on the T5. I'm using a Miata 6 speed.
Maybe it was the restomod picture that threw people off.

I will have to cut the round shifter from the miata to create flats for the clevis.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 3:28 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 1, 2012, 12:26 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Euless, TX
A couple pics.
I took the front thermostat cover and moved it to the back. Had the boss for the rear sensor relocated to this housing, and changed the angle to clear the rear-most bar in the engine bay.

I bought this RCI fuel tank for just over a $100. It's shortened to 20", and had a sump added.

I'd like to run an internal fuel pump, but I'm not sure how to bring out the wires (safely).


Attachments:
tank_sump.JPG
tank_sump.JPG [ 124.98 KiB | Viewed 1784 times ]
tank_tray.JPG
tank_tray.JPG [ 136.74 KiB | Viewed 1784 times ]
tank_installed.JPG
tank_installed.JPG [ 130.03 KiB | Viewed 1784 times ]
thermostat_installed.JPG
thermostat_installed.JPG [ 123.08 KiB | Viewed 1784 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 6:12 pm 
Offline
Mid-Engined Maniac

Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
Posts: 5901
Location: SoCal
This isn't pointed at you in particular, but your situation reminds me of something seen destressingly often:
1. A builder puts together a frame.
2. Buys the engine they want to use.
3. Installs it.
4. Complains that it doesn't fit well.

Sigh... of course it won't. It puzzles me to no end how the above is a surprise. Unless the chassis plans were created with the same engine you're planning to use, this will be the result. To me, the obvious way seems to be to:
1. Buy the engine you want to use.
2. Sit it on the table in the proper location.
3. Build the chassis around it.

Hey, it fits perfect!

---

Regarding the coolant housing, always make sure to leak-test them. A perfectly-appearing weld can leak real well, ask me how I know...

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://www.midlana.com/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains, http://www.kimini.com/book_info/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 7:02 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
Posts: 1484
Location: Louisville KY
KB58 wrote:
Hey, it fits perfect!


Speaking for myself only -- I think it helped me when I gave up the idea of technical purity, or of having the ultimate build, or even avoiding embarrassment when others look under the hood.

I mean, have you seen how silly my motor mounts look?

- G'03

_________________
***************
Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 67 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY