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Nice old school build. My rear trailing links were rod ends until I found it really doesn't work and will bind. Changed one bushing to rubber for some compliance. If your measurements and brackets were PERFECT rod ends would work in theory.
I tried to get a Pinto donor but it didn't work out. One guy wouldn't sell me a rusted out one because he wanted it restored.?? Lost bids on the other two. Gave up and used a Volvo 240 that was cheap and local.
Like the real book build.

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Volvo 240/P1800 Based Locost
2004 Aprilia Mille Factory
1988 Volvo 240 5 Speed ( For Sale)
2002 Toyota Tacoma
1999 BMW M3

Thanks for the comments. I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out the design for the trailing arms. I finally gave up when I realized it was easier to pick out a bushing I want to use, and build them around that. They are fairly close to the book however my 5/8" bolts are neither "low cost" or small. At least I won't have to worry about the rear end coming loose.

I've been spending a lot of time lately working the CJ-5, so my seven hasn't been getting as much attention as it should be. I did manage to finish making the suspension brackets and mocked up a lower arm. Currently cutting tubes to finish the tunnel.



I'm still trying to decide on shocks and picking out gears. I'm leaning towards 3.42 at the moment, just need to pull the trigger.

Bridge that gap with your lower coilover/refer plate. Less stress on the tubes.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Yes there is a LOT of force at that point. Box the top, an a little on the bottom maybe.

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Volvo 240/P1800 Based Locost
2004 Aprilia Mille Factory
1988 Volvo 240 5 Speed ( For Sale)
2002 Toyota Tacoma
1999 BMW M3

Does 1/8" wall DOM and 1/8" plate make any difference? I figured that would be sufficient enough, I was copying the book except my plate is shaped slightly different.

Transmission tunnel almost complete, hoping to finish the frame up over the next few days. I also need to make the passenger side suspension brackets and motors mounts. I removed the rear tunnel tubes and replaced them with 3/4" to gain some more clearance for the axle yoke.

I finished constructing one upper arm today. Used 3/4" DOM and 1 1/4" DOM. It was built to "book" dimensions / specs except for the threaded steel bung and ES150R tie rod end. Frame end mounts accept Energy Suspension bushings 9.9107 with 1/2" bolts. I ran out of 2" square tubing so I can't make any more suspension brackets at the moment.

I finished the upper arms tonight after much frustration. I couldn't find my narrow nozzle, bunch of splatter and wire feed issues. Straightened out now but not as clean as I would have liked.

Tore most of the motor down today to reveal more crusty smelly oily nastiness. Crank looks pretty good but I don't like the looks of the rods, they are rather nasty looking. Cylinder head looks okay, I've seen worse. This of course doesn't mean anything until I get these parts to the machine shop. Pistons are stuck pretty good, I have them soaking at the moment. Camshaft is frozen as well, mostly due to the fact the distributor gear / shaft is stuck in the block and rusted to the cam gear.

Some more work on the frame today. The plan is to bend some steel strip and attach over the transmission tunnel. I built the tunnel a bit shorter than the book to allow for this. Aluminum will then be riveted over the strip, forming a nice curved transmission tunnel.

Trailing arms version 2.0. The previous trailing arms consisted of straight tubes with bushings on either end per "the book". I didn't like how they turned out and figured adjustable arms would be a better choice to deal with any alignment issues. 1.25 DOM with 3/4 tube inserts and rod ends from Speedway. I wanted to put rod ends on both sides, however the axle brackets are already welded to the tube. I didn't want to cut off the brackets and start from scratch so I re-used the poly bushings.

I'm back at it after a long break. I spent most of my time fixing up my 1979 CJ-5 which is now back on the road after 3 years. I ended up replacing the twisted frame, new suspension, new brakes, new lines, new everything, etc.. I rebuilt the transmission, transfer case, and had a local shop rebuild the drive shafts. Engine rebuilt .030 over with a Comp cam and Weber 38, stock ignition, emissions and exhaust. It runs like a champ, so fun to drive with the top off.



Finished welding up the lower wishbones tonight and spent some time putting together a shopping list. I'd like to turn this into a roller by mid-summer, time will tell.

Welcome back! Yeah, summer is almost here. A nice little sports can would be fun then.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Wheels painted and tires mounted. They will look even better once I purchase the hubcaps.