LocostUSA.com

Thank you, Martin.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

So the "obvious" setting of front and rear being the same distance apart is wrong?

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Unfortunately, I can't answer that, since I do not have a setting for that to try out. According to the work that cheapracer has done, that would be a correct statement (see the threads in my reply to Lonnie). I started out with that information, and therefore, my closest to parallel setting is a 1/4" taper (1/8" per arm). I did notice some bind once I got out to the 1 3/4" taper, but I have not done enough testing to give a definite answer. Once I have the panhard bar in place, I'll try some more combinations.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

I wouldn't say it's wrong, but maybe not perfect. The distance between the rear of the arms decreases with respect to the frame as the car rolls. Not very much though.

Hi Martin,
Your build looks awesome and is really moving along well, especially considering you are creating everything but the basic frame outline as you go. I'm still puttering around with my locost and have added the clamshell front fenders, which make it look quite different and I would say more like a real car.
You may have picked up on this from other posts and build notes but I would mention two things just in case you haven't tripped over them already. In the Champion version the design lengthens the cockpit and shortens the engine bay in comparison to the Lotus 7 design; this has the effect of moving the windshield forward and in my view too far away from the driver/passenger. The resulting wind blast is much greater than it need be. The positioning of the scuttle and hence the windshield can have a profound effect on how comfortable the car is to drive and even a few inches forward or back can make a big difference. I've added lexan wind wings for the summer and made a set of sidecurtains for the cooler weather. The other thing I've noticed is that the book builds seem to result in the top of the scuttle being a few inches lower than the Lotus 7 proportions. In the original there is a gentle but noticeable slope from the scuttle down the hood to the nose. Having the scuttle too low affects steering wheel height as well as how much room you will have behind it for instruments. It will also affect the extent to which you feel like you are sitting in the car versus on it. If there is one part of my car that I would re-do it is this one. So that's my two cents; I'll be watching your build with great interest. Best regards...john

Hey John,
good to hear from you here. That's all good stuff to know. At this point, I have no plans for a windshield, but I will make sure that one could be installed successfully, if needed. We're really going back in time here, but I still have my old Simpson from the FF days, and I plan to drive the car that way. If I, and hopefully the inspector, interpret the regulations correctly, a windshield is not needed. However, if the vehicle has one, then wipers and de-fogger are needed. So we'll see.
As to the steering wheel, I'll build that part of the structure, once I have the seats and the steering column. I am finding now, and have pretty much from the beginning, that it is best to build the frame around the components. I just finished the panhard bar, and built that part of the frame to suit, rather than follow the plans. KB and GregV, among others, have mentioned and shown that, and I think it is the way to go.
Hopefully, I'll get to see the clamshells in person one of these days. With side curtains, all you need is some good snow tires, and you could be up here for some eggnog.
Talk to you soon.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

Martin, the answer i had for comming up with the diagonal beacing and the steering rack was this.

_________________
this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.

Very clever, John H.
Nicely done.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

A quick update.
I finished the panhard bar and rear suspension. Now the axle can be removed for final welding.
I read as much as I could on the panhard bar mounting and location, and just as Perry, went with the info on the AFCO site. So I have settings from centerline of the axle to two inches below (at the axle mount) and corresponding on the frame side. The bar can be set parallel to the ground at those settings. Because I wanted two ride heights, the frame bracket had to be accommodating all those settings; therefore, I braced the top into the vertical tube between the top and center rail.
The shock mounts also allow the two ride heights, but had to be wide enough for the shock body to clear. That's why I made up some spacers and the extra bracing between the legs. After they are welded to the axle, the braces (front and rear) will be welded in.
The panhard axle mount will be welded to the trailing arm brackets, and then the braces added afterwards.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

A project, within the project.
Fairly early on in the build, I had decided to build a tubing bender, for the future roll cage. I bought some plans, but found that the die, plus shipping, was still quite expensive. Then I found a more reasonable option at Affordable Tubing Benders, who sell an aluminum cast die, that was a bit easier to have shipped; it came to about $ 200 delivered. So I combined the plans that I had, with the pictures from their website, and built this little puppy. After a bit of fine tuning, I can get nearly perfect 90 deg bends (about 89 after spring back). The material cost was about $ 70, and I had an old 12 ton jack sitting around.
After all is said and done, their complete unit at about $ 400 is a pretty good deal, but then there is always that darned shipping, which would have made it nearly $600 for me. Plus I had the fun of building it
Now for some paint, and I can check that off my list.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

Very impressive, Martin.

You say you combined plans? Which ones (other than Affordable Tubing Benders) did you use?

Cheers,

Lonnie

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

thats the right set of mind

turned out very nice
i like your die stop (why didnt i think of that ) ... i bet it makes inserting a tube from the rear a lot easier

i will shamelessly copy that onto my bender

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- Stephan -

Thanks, Lonnie and Stephan.

These are the original plans I purchased:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/EASY-TO-BUILD-TU ... 25874ae76f
However, I did not think that the aluminum die and follower would have worked that well with this design. That die is 120 degrees, which is obviously superior to bend a perfect 90 degrees, but I wanted to keep the cost down. So I built the frame like the Affordable Tube Bender, but attached the top of the jack with the angles, like in the plans. It allows the jack to be a little bit more inclined and keeping a bit more horizontal force in the last few degrees of bending. When I watched their video, it looked like their jack was nearly vertical. I have no clue if my reasoning is sound, because theirs obviously works, but my practice bends were effortless, and so close to 90, that I'm happy.
I also added the wider "feet"; in their demo video, it looked a bit wobbly. It is obviously easier to ship that way, but I figured that with a full length of a main hoop, the thing might topple off the bench. I can clamp mine if I have to.

Stephan,
it's funny what inspiration can come from a couple of skinned knuckles. Copy away
BTW, it's good to see you post again. You always bring a lot of good ideas forward.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

Finished my engine mounts today. I tried to come as close as possible to the way the engine is mounted into the R1 frame. The '05 model is a little different from some of the other BEC builds (Jeff Underwood, andrewt), in that the front mount has only one boss. So I suspended that from a cradle and mounted the rear similar to Jeff Underwood's, however, I went with two brackets and bushings. I also added a couple of braces into the frame.
It took longer and was more complicated, due to the fact that I did not want to put too much heat into the bushings and melt things. So careful tacks, careful removal, more tacks, more welds, more re-assembly more straightening... you get the picture. In the end, it all came out straight, and I was a pretty happy camper. May have a wee dram tonight.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

I like that! It's a cool solution and probably allows for easy removal too.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.