LocostUSA.com

Yup that was us. I believe in going all out for the first run and then dialing it back....that means tagging a lot of cones.

Looks like you're making quick progress!

Yeah I have got the bug, I am trying to get a donor at the moment. Hopefully I can do some work to get the engine positioned to make the engine mounts maybe this weekend.

_________________
2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Well I have been busy this weekend. I seemed to put in a few hours work but really didn't seem to get much done.
My son Oliver helped out with the positioning of the engine mounts and was keen to take it for a test drive but he will have to wait a while yet.

I ran out of gas virtually before I started so mostly cutting and thinking about where everything is going to go.
I did make the engine mounts. Like I said they are not welded together yet, I will weld then as a box and them leave them until I am ready to drop the engine in so I can move them back or forwards to get the perfect fit. I am still fighting with engine location farther back means better weight distribution but smaller foot well, I am hoping to get about 13" for the foot well so I will use that measurement and slide the engine until I get it right, not forgetting gear stick placement which I figure can move and inch or two and still be comfortable.

I also did some work on the from of the frame I added the 2 bars for the rear sections of the control arms and also the strengthening pieces


I am still trying to figure out the roll cage design as I have purchased the steel and want to make a full "Legal" cage around the cabin. Here is the thread about that. viewtopic.php?f=39&t=14705

Whilst driving today and thinking far to far ahead, I was thinking about making 2 removable roofs that would be secured
on top of the roll cage.
1. Light weight to provide shade as it is very hot in the summer ( like a golf cart)
2. Heavy duty to mount race wheels rather than having to tow a trailer, my friend bolts his to a little utility trailer and I could do the same on the roof. The roll cage should be more than strong enough to support the weight and much easier then messing with a trailer.

_________________
2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

So I found a 1989 TRD Toyota Supra with no engine as a donor. The seller kissed the car when it was on the trailer which is good to see. It looks like he really took care of it. He actually bought a donor car to make this one the best he could, so he gave me a load of extra parts like a spare steering rack, spare uprights, a whole box of parts, and extra spoiler etc etc etc. I am very happy especially as the wheels fit my Rx8 so I have 3 sets of wheels that will fit both cars and one set already has race rubber.
I also measure the wheel gap at the back and with the wheels on it there will be a 2" gap either side my race tires will probably drop that gap to about an inch so it looks perfect. I am not going to use the rear sub-frame but I would like to replicate it where possible

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= ... =1&theater

_________________
2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Well I started looking at the suspension today and decided to remove the stock coilovers. Turns out you have to remove a lot of the interior in the trunk to get it out so i sat in the trunk and started unscrewing things. Before I knew it I had virtually the entire interior out, all the trunk lining, seats, carpet, side paneling. I also removed the wheels, trunk, hood, roof and the rear coilovers. So all in all a good days work.

I still need to remove the bumpers & lights to hopefully sell along with the other parts removed today. Then down to the parts I need which include the rear sub-frame, front sub-frame, steering rack and some of the wiring loom.

I tested the rear diff and it is an LSD and then noticed the red LSD label so I am one happy camper . The tires also had plenty of tread left so 2 are mounted on my Rx8, one had a puncture which I have repaired and the other has a broken valve stem which I will get repaired as I cannot remove the tire. Then I will have all 4 on my Rx8. Which is nice as my rear tires were bald so that has already saved me $300-$500 in tires.

_________________
2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Looks like lotsa progress, Paul! Donor appears to be in good shape, that's a good sign as well.

I laughed at the part about taking the rear interior apart. Peter Egan wrote in Road & Track some years ago about working one night in his shop and while under the influence of Guinness Stout and black coffee he accidentally dis-assembled an entire MGB. It kinda sounds like you had the same experience!

Keep up the progress, Bro, you're on the move now!

JD

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Yeah exactly right. When you start dismantling the interior everything is so tightly packed in and cleanly finished but once you get one piece out it just comes apart from there, before I knew it I was taking the carpet out.

The only part that gave me any trouble was the drives seat as it is a power seat so I could not move it forward to get at the bolts. I remove the front bolts rocked the seat back and put some 1" tubing right next to the bolt then rock it forward a few times and voila out came the seat. Best thing is I didn't even damage the seat the bolts pulled the floor mounts out.

The donor is in great shape considering the age, the previous owned took a lot of care of it and actually had 3 Supra's over time. He sold one and used the 2nd one as a donor for this one. Now he has a Lexus which is where the Supra engine went.

It's funny now I have the car I have gone from thinking hmmm which part shall I do next, to OMG I have a lot of work to do. I will remove the sub-frames next and start thinking about how I am going to make my chassis a rolling chassis.

_________________
2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Yep, know that feeling... The thing to do is stop and think it through. A lot... If your first thought is "take off the front subframe" for example, then your second one should be, "and how will I move this thing around the garage then"? Or something like that. Your car may already be on dollies or not need to move, I dunno. Anyway, point is, don't let the apparent enormity of it all spur you into rushing. Plan it out and avoid that "Oh Sh*t!" moment...

Am I preaching to the choir? If so, sorry.... Tryin' to help...

JD

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

And on here there are whole threads on the dangers of a too flimsy seat mount and how you need to anchor the seat through tubing or 1/4" steel floor.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Honest to God, I think that the Camaro seats were held in by 3/16" bolts... if they were even that big. I have a friend who was a top engineer at Lear, a Tier 1 seat company (made Taurus seats, etc), and he remarked how some of the third world seats were basically lawn chairs.

What I *don't* want is a hit to the rear to propel me backwards into the roll bar 'cause my seat broke.

_________________
***************
Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

I've been rear ended in my DD too many times. But twice, the seat frame became bent from the impact. Maybe it was designed that way to absorb some energy? In my Locost, my seat back is just that, a seat back. Separate from the seat bottom. The back is semi-secured to the rear bulkhead. There is no place for it to go backwards. If the belts are secured to the frame, then the only thing the bolts have to do is to secure the mass of the seat in a front end collision, not your body.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

If I didn't have a short girlfriend who (I hope) will want to drive this thing, I'd have the rear seats from a Camaro in the configuration you suggest.

However, I'll have an adjustable seat, one on rails that not only go forward but also raise the seat. And the front of those rails will be attached to some substantial bits -- let's just say that the floor oil canning at that point won't happy. The rears will probably be sitting on some 1/8" flat stock, 2" wide or something -- which is still a lot more than the Camaro mounts.

_________________
***************
Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

Yeah I have been thinking about moving the car. I do need to move it and currently have 2 options. either put wheels on it and jack up the front and push it, followed by the rear etc until it is in position or get to harbor freight and buy 2 dollies which will allow me to move it whenever I need to. I think I will go with the dollies. Especially as I only have 4 jack stands and they are all currently on the supra.

As for the seat I will be getting the Kirkey budget seat, I want to mount it on rails I think I will use the passenger seat rails from the supra (if they fit the seat) I will probably use the bolts and then stitch weld the rails to the floor. Who knows that too far in the future for me to worry about I need to concentrate on the task at hand.

Current problems are what to do about the rear end, I have 3 options.
1. Use the supra sub-frame - easiest, fastest, cheapest heaviest
2. Use the uprights and suspension control arms (fab my own lighter sub-frame incorporated into the Locost frame)
3. Just use the uprights and fab everything - Hardest, lightest

I think I like the idea of the 2nd option I can actually remove the bolt mounting points and weld them up to the frame of my own design to allow all the stock adjustments of the Supra. My Miata coilovers will fit the suspension with a couple of washers installed which should work out pretty good.

_________________
2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Well quite a busy weekend. I got a lot done taking the Supra apart and prepping the parts for my build. I also spent some time cleaning up the frame during the week so about 20% of it is nice and shiny steel. To finish off my day I welded the front suspension mounting bars to the frame.

Rear sub frame has been removed.


Front sub frame removed.


Brake disks before and after cleaning.


Box full of clean brake disks and uprights


Added the front and strengthening bars to the frame for mounting the front suspension


Making steady progress, it is time to make some decisions about the next step. Here are a few options.
Make the roll cage
Make the rear end
Make the front suspension
Mounts the engine and build the transmission tunnel.

Well lots of options and it all need to get done.

_________________
2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

I'd vote for making the roll cage, but maybe that should be combined with "make the rear end"? If you meant the rear "verticals" and "second story" of the frame, then definitely combine the two, so you don't put a roll cage tube where the diff mount needs to be, and vice-versa!

Than again, maybe I'm the only one that has that kind of problem...


JDK

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom