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PostPosted: August 7, 2017, 9:54 am 
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Yup, what they said. Relative constant controlled engine temp is good.

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PostPosted: August 7, 2017, 3:22 pm 
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You guys have convinced me I forked out a huge $10 for a 170 degree replacement from Advanced.

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PostPosted: August 7, 2017, 3:28 pm 
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I would install a 190° thermostat.

A lower temp thermostat will not prevent overheating.

Modern motors were designed to run a 190-195 thermostat.

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PostPosted: August 9, 2017, 3:29 pm 
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Bent Wrench wrote:
I would install a 190° thermostat.

A lower temp thermostat will not prevent overheating.

Modern motors were designed to run a 190-195 thermostat.


What definition of "overheating" are you using? Once open fully, a 170 degree thermostat will act the same as a fully opened 190 degree thermostat. Maybe I read your post wrong?

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PostPosted: August 9, 2017, 3:56 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
Bent Wrench wrote:
A lower temp thermostat will not prevent overheating.


Once open fully, a 170 degree thermostat will act the same as a fully opened 190 degree thermostat.


I think you two agree.

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PostPosted: August 9, 2017, 4:31 pm 
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Quote:

I think you two agree.


After re-reading, Maybe so. :cheers:

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PostPosted: August 9, 2017, 5:13 pm 
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I agree with you both and know that a thermostat is basically just a switch that brings the radiator into play at a set temperature. Being lower operating point does not affect overheating at all just allows the radiator to work at a lower temp. A slightly higher one would probably be better but that is what they had on hand.

In future I plan to go with an electric water pump which will remove the thermostat and be controlled by the ECU. I also have plans to mount a smaller alternator at the bottom of the engine which would then allow me to remove the pulley and tensioner. Doing so will save around 15lbs and reduce parasitic losses especially at higher RPM.

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PostPosted: August 10, 2017, 12:31 am 
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wrightcomputing wrote:
a thermostat is basically just a switch regulator that brings the radiator into play at a set temperature.

There I just fixed that for you.

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PostPosted: August 10, 2017, 10:26 am 
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Since most cooling systems by design are over cooled (you have to be able to shed more heat than you create).

The thermostat's job is to make the motor warm up faster and regulate the minimum temp in normal operation.

Often it seems folks operate under the fallacy that a lower than normal temp thermostat is better and may help with overheating.

Motors designed in the last 40 years were meant to normally operate 180° to 210° lately that has increased to 195° to 230°.

This is designed into the motor and affects all the internal clearances and lubrication needs.

So ixnay the low temp thermostats for anything newer than the 50's.

I ran a 195° thermostat in my championship winning circle track car.


Here's an extreme point of reference.
I used to build Midget motors that would not turn over when they were cold.
They had to be machined at operating temp or the clearances would open up too much and fail when raced.
We heated them with hot water to machine (and assemble), and before starting.
One of the team members is producing the heaters for retail http://www.hotheadheater.com

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PostPosted: August 10, 2017, 7:27 pm 
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I'll second the clearance comment above. Flogging an engine that isn't at the right temperature is asking for problems.

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PostPosted: August 19, 2017, 6:15 pm 
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I finally took that car for an event after it breaking in March. The car ran great all day and surprisingly didn't give me any issues. She was a bit loose but whats new.
https://youtu.be/lJRjyIqb07E

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PostPosted: August 20, 2017, 5:36 pm 
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That looks totally crazy, but looks like it's tons of fun too.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: August 20, 2017, 7:53 pm 
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Yeah the car is really loose, it is a bit of a hand full but I am used to it. I'm sort of stuck with the handling as the rear is as soft and low as it will go without rubbing on the fenders and the front is as stiff as it will go. I plan to completely rebuild the chassis over the next year so I am not really too worried about it.

Here is a run from today. Similar results as Saturday 3rd in RAW time and high 20s in Pax of about 80 drivers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8tIO7RJALQ

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PostPosted: August 20, 2017, 8:03 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
That looks totally crazy, but looks like it's tons of fun too.

Cheers,

That, my friend, looks more like an addiction waiting to happen! I'm already an adrenaline junkie, and that looks to me like it could get out of control very, very quickly!
Great Video, by the way!

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PostPosted: August 20, 2017, 11:50 pm 
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Maybe you should hack on your current car a bit to make sure you go the right direction with the new changes? Could hurt your year end points though.

Moving weight to the back, can you get to maybe %56 rear weight bias? Raise your front RC or lower rear? If you can't move weight, maybe move the rear wheels forward a bit? I changed how my wishbones connected to the upright and got my rear wheels moved forward 2 or 3 inches.

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