LocostUSA.com

Good idea on getting those torqued. MNot and I completely forgot to do that. During our first Auto-X run one side came out. It caused the hub to come out and completely locked the rear tire. Thankful it didn't happen in traffic.

Ron, Lonnie, Phil, Briggs, thanks for the encouragement. Definitely forging ahead, just trying to not beat it with a hammer. Progress is slower than I would like, but I blame that on available time. Somewhere in the future is that Vroom-Vroom sound.

The rear axle nut saga started with a (mis)adventure JD had with axle nuts way back when. Somehow that stuck in my mind and the Bubba-think resulted when it came to making mine tight.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Ah the essential learning from other peoples mistakes, however it only works if one's memory isn't starting to fail....

So true. Although in this case, the "way back when" part helped a lot. Remembering why I went into a room can be a mystery.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

So true. Wasn't it to get to the other side? Oh no, wait, that was the chicken on road, right? Damn, can't remember.

Happy Thanksgiving! Or, is that tomorrow? Well, happy anyway.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Finished mounting the brake calipers. Got a little ahead of myself on reassembly and had to redo a bit to make sure the calipers were centered over the discs.

The fronts were relatively straight forward:The flexible brake lines have a coating over the stainless braid, so shouldn't saw through the A-arms.

The rears were more difficult as the parking brake set-up had to be completed. The floating spot calipers and cables were eventually dialed in with hopefully minimal drag ,enough holding power and balanced side-to-side. The red calipers were easy in comparison.

Still need to pressure test the hydraulic systems before calling them sorted. The triple-bay brake fluid reservoir is remote mounted in the scuttle and the scuttle floor is paneled. And that paneling restricts access to stuff beneath it. So need to figure a way to fill the reservoir, pressure check for leaks and then swing the semi-full reservoir out of the way without dumping brake fluid all over the place.

But progress is being made, slowly but surely.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Those brakes look massive. Your eyeballs make come right out of your head during panic stops.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Looks great.

How did you like the parking brake cable system ?

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American 7 5.0 T5
Lotus 15 ish?
914/H6

Hi Lonnie, the discs are 12.19" diameter and the calipers are 4-pots. Probably overkill, but extra Whoa is good. The price was about the same as the 11" set. Did pay an unsprung weight penalty, though.

The cable system is a hybrid of Lokar and Control Cable parts with some home made br@ck^ts, springs and such. The brake lever is mounted on the left side of the cockpit. Should work well, but removing any future stretch from the cables will be "interesting" once the driveshaft and safety hoops are installed. The spot calipers do have adjustment, but that could add drag on the rotors.

I'm using Thunderbird rear knuckles with Mustang Cobra hubs. The rear brake kit is from Levy Racing and included the calipers, brakes, and br@ck^ts with the floating spot caliper mounting points. (BTW, Gordon Levy is great to deal with.)

The Wilwood spot caliper parking brake was the best option when I bought my brakes several years ago. Wilwood now offers fixed parking brake calipers with electric clamping motors built into each caliper. Wilwood's electric caliper set-up is a bit pricey with calipers, harness, controller and switch and a br@cket mod would have been required, but it would have been a very clean and easy install. Given the part$ and time spent putting my set-up together, it could have been a good trade. The other option would be an electric cable puller, but that would still require cables and mechanical calipers.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

I thought that e-brake kit looked familiar. Locar makes some nice stuff.

Remind me again where you got the rear trailing arms from?

Thanks!

Briggs, the trailing arms are from UB Machine, 1" x 0.095 steel with LH-RH threaded swaged ends. They come knurled and powder coated in 1" increments and can be made to specific lengths. My upper is 28.5" long with 5/8" threads. The lower is 27.5" long with 3/4" threads. Some good pics of them on page 30 (from the start) of this build log.

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Made up the lines connecting the master cylinder reservoir to the M/Cs. I reverted to my original plan of using aluminum hard lines. For a while I was going to switch to braided flex lines, but bend radii became a problem. Anyone want a nice set of -4AN stainless-braid coated PTFE lines?
The odd looking routing of the reservoir lines provides clearance around the air cleaner and left-side ignition coils, shown mocked up here:
Once the throttle pedal and brake bias adjustment control cable (hiding under the scuttle panel) are final fitted, the panel, reservoir and connecting lines can be locked down. Then the master cylinders filled and the brake lines finally tested for leaks.

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Been busy with finishing the under-the-scuttle-floor stuff so I could mount/fill the brake reservoir and pressure test the hydraulic lines.
Battery cutoff switch is now wired, the starter installed, ground lines mounted, forward end of fuel line trimmed and mounted, brake balance-bar installed with initial pedal set-up, and some other miscellaneous pre-reqs done.

The dozen under-scuttle panels have been re-clearanced to accommodate the final chassis welds (much fettling required.) These panels can now be cleaned up, insulation added where appropriate and installed. Then the brake reservoir finally gets mounted.

Battery positive wiring. Pink foam thing is PC680 battery mock-up:
Battery cutoff switch is mounted to temporary dash panel so wiring could be terminated:
Positive and negative cables run through the firewall using yellow nylon clamp for grommet:
Starter positive connection. Battery negative to block:
Battery negative to chassis. Terminal at battery negative to be added:
Block ground to chassis:
Forward end of fuel line to AN6 firewall fitting. Fuel line is continuous from tank area to AN6 fitting. AN6 fitting then piped to injector log.
Inertia fuel pump cutoff switch mounted to dash bulkhead Bulkhead is a strong point in the chassis:
Brake bias-bar control. Just showing in the dimpled hole beneath the bias control knob is the reset button for the fuel pump inertia switch. Reset button is finger-tip accessible:
Now to mount those under-scuttle panels.

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Your work is always art, Tom. If you put a couple of small stitch welds on the bolt heads of the grounds you can paint over them and not worry about a good connection.

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Peace, Ron

Great progress Tom, getting closer!

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle