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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 12, 2017, 8:44 am 
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Not to be graphic, but I should think that if you get to the point in an "Incident" where your squishy parts are interacting with a switch on the dashboard, You are already well and truly Scr*wed! That switch will be the least of your concerns! Not to minimize the importance of making things as safe as possible, but I think on this one, it is more important to have the switch somewhere you can easily access it when the dust settles if you need to kill the engine and fuel pump.

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PostPosted: April 12, 2017, 1:06 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
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To turn off quickly you slap the cover downward and it turns off the toggle.
Awww, Mannnn... I didn't know that... I coulda had a cool covered toggle on the Slotus... Dammit... :cry:


Yeah, and you missed the goat steering wheel as well, JD. Let's start paying attention, OK?
Attachment:
File comment: What JD should have done. Someone needs to work with the boy!
Goat Wheel.jpg
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Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: April 12, 2017, 2:43 pm 
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Yeah, and you missed the goat steering wheel as well, JD. Let's start paying attention, OK?
Dammmmm, how did that beauty get by me??? You musta posted it during Bubba's feeding time! :mrgreen:

But seriously, folks... I'd hate to try to hand-shuffle around a 180 in gloves and firesuit with that mess in the middle of the wheel! :ack:

:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: April 12, 2017, 2:50 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
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Yeah, and you missed the goat steering wheel as well, JD. Let's start paying attention, OK?
Dammmmm, how did that beauty get by me??? You musta posted it during Bubba's feeding time! :mrgreen:

But seriously, folks... I'd hate to try to hand-shuffle around a 180 in gloves and firesuit with that mess in the middle of the wheel! :ack:

:cheers:
JDK


But think how cool you'd look doin' it, JD!
Now, back to Tom's build.....

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PostPosted: April 12, 2017, 6:55 pm 
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benny_toe wrote:
A get together with like minded friends is always a treat. But being the wimp that I am I would vote for a little warmer weather. With less chance of rain. But that's just me 8<}
I guess one dry day does not a summer/spring make. It's raining again :( But since I can't mow the lawn, guess I'll just go back into the garage. :D
rx7locost wrote:
Think about this, You find yourself in a difficult situation, You try to maneuver out of harm when all things break loose, You spin off the track, all the time trying to keep control. You are trying to steer and trying to downshift. If you end up sitting with one hand on the wheel and one on the gearshift, which hand is already free to cut off the engine?

Maybe this is quite the stretch and maybe it is a gross misrepresentation of how things will work out. But I would think the switch would be easiest accessed by your right hand. Just one opinion. However, if you have a real cutoff switch, that makes this decision less important.

Dismantalus wrote:
Not to be graphic, but I should think that if you get to the point in an "Incident" where your squishy parts are interacting with a switch on the dashboard, You are already well and truly Scr*wed! That switch will be the least of your concerns! Not to minimize the importance of making things as safe as possible, but I think on this one, it is more important to have the switch somewhere you can easily access it when the dust settles if you need to kill the engine and fuel pump.
Thanks Guys, I like your logic. Message received.
GonzoRacer wrote:
It is a bit of a connunndr... con nun...dram... Canadien.... It's a puzzle!
It's definitely a condom, JD, and as everybody pointed out: Safety First!
Quote:
Could you relocate one switch out of the row of switches there in front of the shifter? I was thinking the headlight flash could be a momentary push button on the dash where you could reach with one finger off the wheel, or relocate the hazard flasher switch over near the battery cutoff or something. And then put the uber-cool covered ignition switch next to the driver in that row?

Kind of like this: Here's switch layout V2.0
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I like the placement of the red switch near the shifter a lot better. Just need to fit it in between the wheel and the shifter. Adding push buttons on the dash and/or rockers on the tranny tunnel top-side are open options. I appreciate all the input on that placement.

Been trying to work out the tunnel details, and the e-brake lever is a bit of a problem, so exploring a left-side mount. With the dash hoop side-panel creating some space, it might just work. Think I'll get one of those Control Cable levers and see.
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Awhile back, I bought matching 16" wide Kirkey low-back seats and covers. Then moved the drivetrain an inch to the right. May need to sell one of the seats and get a 15" wide version for the passenger's side to make the tunnel work. I'll probably be putting a pristine seat up as a For Sale item before too long. If anybody is interested holler now.

Lonnie-S wrote:
Yeah, and you missed the goat steering wheel as well, JD. Let's start paying attention, OK?
JD, maybe this tee-shirt would help.
Attachment:
Goat Tee.jpg
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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: April 12, 2017, 8:42 pm 
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OK, y'all missed the safety option represented by that goat. I'm seeing way cool airbag container in that goat. Meanwhile, you guys are seein...well, who knows what you guys are seein after those 1960s references and all.

OK. I think I've done enough damage here. Back to Tom's regularly scheduled build.

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PostPosted: April 19, 2017, 12:01 am 
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Work on the tunnel is on hold until the e-brake lever location settles down. A Control Cables' e-brake lever and mount were ordered so different mounting options could be tried.

Waiting for the e-brake parts to arrive gave opportunity to fab and tack in the driver’s side coil br@ck^t.
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The passenger's side coil mount was tacked in place a while back.

Was Finishing up the new coil mount when the UPS truck arrived with the e-brake lever assembly. Did someone say “squirrel.”

I’m hoping to mount the brake lever to the left of the driver to free up the tunnel design. Something like this:
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Checking the ergonomics of this set up naturally required a vroom-vroom session. :drive:

The dash hoop’s Terry-hoop side panel created plenty of clearance between my left leg and the brake lever. I’ll probably trim the provided “floor” mounting plate a bit and will need to move the lever assembly to the right about half an inch so the e-brake cable can clear the chassis tube.
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P4184510-1.jpg
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With no cockpit side panels planned, there is plenty of room between the outside alloy panel and the lever for fingers to wrap around the handle. The high top chassis rail helps here.
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Another critical factor is the steering wheel’s clearance to the lever. This does not seem like it will be a problem and the final brake lever mounting orientation will be tweaked to make sure there’s plenty of room for hands flailing at the wheel.

The e-brake cable arrangement downstream from the lever assembly will likely mount either beside or behind the driver’s seat. Lot’s of details and a stout br@ck^t to work out, but think the left side brake lever location is gonna work.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: April 19, 2017, 12:29 pm 
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Hi Tom,
I think the switch position V2.0 is great. I had a switch at the V1.0 position in my Formula Ford and managed to kill the engine while waving one of the fast guys around going down the back straight at PIR. Your car is coming along very nicely, hope to see it this summer.

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PostPosted: April 21, 2017, 5:24 pm 
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Hey Gonzo...I noticed the mock engine in the first page of the thread. I am looking for 4 cylinder products and I can find honda engines, but I am looking for Mazda BP or Ford B series. Any clues on where to source? I have been looking for a while.


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PostPosted: April 21, 2017, 8:15 pm 
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Jon Gandy wrote:
Hey Gonzo...I noticed the mock engine in the first page of the thread. I am looking for 4 cylinder products and I can find honda engines, but I am looking for Mazda BP or Ford B series. Any clues on where to source? I have been looking for a while.
Hi Jon. The plastic replica LS block I used is from these folks: http://www.payr.com/ Not sure if they do any 4-abangers, though. Perhaps just get a junked engine and strip it down if you need something for a mock-up.

BTW, I'll be putting my plastic motor on Craig's list soon if anyone is interested.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: April 21, 2017, 10:17 pm 
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Uuhhhhmmm, wait a second, did someone just confuse J.D. and Tom? :shock:

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PostPosted: April 21, 2017, 11:16 pm 
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I like that coil sandwich!

Image

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PostPosted: April 22, 2017, 12:21 am 
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Trochu wrote:
Uuhhhhmmm, wait a second, did someone just confuse J.D. and Tom? :shock:
Now that is scary! I must be wearing Slotus Green or somthin' :mrgreen:
Actually I'm honored by the confusion. :cheers:

Bent Wrench wrote:
I like that coil sandwich!
Thanks, Bent. Made the spacers from aluminum tube and the end caps from 1/8" aluminum angle. Copied a commercially available design, but made shorter "legs" so it would take up less space. Here's what the makin's of the sandwich look like:
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'Course its going to take some longer coil wires...

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: April 24, 2017, 10:54 am 
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Actually I'm honored by the confusion.
The honor is all mine... I'm used to being mistaken for Tom Selleck, but being mistaken for Seattle Tom is almost as good! :mrgreen:

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"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: May 6, 2017, 12:52 am 
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Between spring chores and starting a master bath remodel, I was able to divert a little time into making up the e-brake lever mount. A couple of posts back I had decided to mount the e-brake handle to the left of the driver to solve some tunnel framework and right elbow clearance issues. So a solid base to mount the Control Cables lever mechanism was needed on the left side of the cockpit. After playing around a bit, I came up with this, ummm, not-a-br@ck^t:
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1” tube was used for the base to match up to the 1” x 3” vertical member it's located against. Although heavier than needed, I wanted this piece to engage across the full 1” edge width of the 1x3, as the 1x3 also takes the loads from the trailing arms. The not-a-br@ck^t might even provide a little gusseting for the 1x3.

To position the e-brake lever as far to the left side as possible, the lever needed to be canted outward a bit. This added steering wheel clearance while still allowing the e-brake cable to exit cleanly. To achieve the cant, the two kinds of mounting bosses with differing offsets were used.

Seemed to work out pretty well. Sufficient finger room to grab the handle with either left or right hand even with bulky gloves on.
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The upper end of the Control Cables base plate was rounded off to add some lightness. It will receive some rubber edge trim during final assembly.

BTW, those big nuts on the inside of the 1x3’s are placeholders for skinny jam nuts. The bolts mounting the trailing arm rod ends thread into tapped inserts welded into the 1x3’s and the jam nuts are there to add some insurance.

Ok, time to quit procrastinating and get to work on the tunnel…or do I hear a master bath cabinet installation calling. :roll:

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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