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PostPosted: February 28, 2018, 7:57 pm 
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Guys, thanks for the comments and encouragement. My "time away" wasn't really a sabbatical, it was just life getting in the way and then having to overcome my own inertia. I don't really have a "plan" yet. Just trying to knock off some sticky build steps that accumulated and added to my malaise.

JD, I'm looking forward to reading about the Slotus tearing up the track this season (figuratively speaking.) You're just an engine rebuild away...

Larry and Justin, maybe we can get another Seattle area meeting, pub crawl or whatever going now that its warmed up enough to rain.

Lonnie, you are way more organized on your build approach than I've been. What's a Log Book? But I've got sticky notes all over the place.

Stinger, your work on your Cheetah-inspired build is fantastic. I'm envious of your fiberglass skills. One of the "sticky build steps" that's been frustrating me is the lengthening of the nose cone noted in my last post. I keep going back to your Cheetah build to get inspired. I'll be putting together a separate thread on this topic looking for input. Would appreciate any thoughts you can contribute.

I've finished coping the two rear wheel arches and am ready to tack them in. Onward...

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: March 2, 2018, 5:07 pm 
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Hi Tom, it's really nice to see pictures of that car again. Can't tell you how good that feels!

It looks pretty straight forward to make that extension. It looks like you can make a fiberglass band that sits on top of that flange at the back of the nose, it may also butt up against the back edge of the flange depending on how thick you decide to make this extension. You will also want something to strengthen the back edge of your extension.

Have you been doing epoxy or poleyester stuff to work on your nose so far? Something that might work for you is to lay up a thin piece of fiberglass on something flat like a piece of plexiglass and use that instead of aluminum to make your form. Then it just becomes part of your extension when you do the layup in site on the car. Once you have the major work done, you will want to turn the part over and put a piece or two of fiberglass tape under the seem between the parts to help keep it from flexing here and causing the paint to crack. The back edge should also have something to thicken it. If you double the thickness the last inch or so it will be 8 times stiffer. So usually you put a little something that's maybe 1/8" thick there and then put some glass on top of that...

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PostPosted: March 4, 2018, 3:02 pm 
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horizenjob wrote:
Hi Tom, it's really nice to see pictures of that car again. Can't tell you how good that feels!

It looks pretty straight forward to make that extension. It looks like you can make a fiberglass band that sits on top of that flange at the back of the nose, it may also butt up against the back edge of the flange depending on how thick you decide to make this extension. You will also want something to strengthen the back edge of your extension.

Have you been doing epoxy or poleyester stuff to work on your nose so far? Something that might work for you is to lay up a thin piece of fiberglass on something flat like a piece of plexiglass and use that instead of aluminum to make your form. Then it just becomes part of your extension when you do the layup in site on the car. Once you have the major work done, you will want to turn the part over and put a piece or two of fiberglass tape under the seem between the parts to help keep it from flexing here and causing the paint to crack. The back edge should also have something to thicken it. If you double the thickness the last inch or so it will be 8 times stiffer. So usually you put a little something that's maybe 1/8" thick there and then put some glass on top of that...
Marcus, good to hear from you. We're thinking along the same lines for that extension. The key will be forming a proper mold shape to maintain a nice loft line with the scuttle. I'll be using polyester resin for this job.

The fiberglass extension can be attached via the old hood mount offset along the rear edge of original nose. Its just over an inch wide. After laying a few layers on the extension, think I'll glass a wide strip lengthwise down the nose cone centerline tieing the widening inserts done previously and the new length extension to the original nose cone material. A wide strip on both the top and bottom should hold it all together pretty well. I'll also use that foam core piece you sent me awhile back as a cross-wise stiffener, glassed in under the new trailing edge.

I'm currently working on getting the right shape on the plywood station at the new trailing edge and pondering the best form material. Laying the glass will wait until it gets a bit warmer. But I need to have the nose cone finished enough to position and weld the dzus fastener t@b to the frame. Chickens and eggs.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: April 15, 2018, 10:26 pm 
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The upper and lower rails on Car9 are positioned for chassis strength as they wrap around the rear of the chassis. This also accommodates more streamlined bodywork like Kinetic’s Lalo design. However, since I’m going with a riff on a more traditional locost body, some additional tubes were needed aft of the cockpit to hang the aluminum panels forming the boot.

In keeping with my round-tube theme, thin-wall 1” EMT electrical conduit was used to keep weight down for these non-structural tubes. This also allowed use of a standard conduit bender to form the 8” outside radius bends needed for the boot “corners.”

Since EMT tubing is galvanized, it was soaked in vinegar to remove the zinc coating. Discussed here http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 4&start=15
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The 8” bends in the EMT needed to match-up with the projection of the corner bends in the upper and lower chassis rails. The conduit bender got close, but a lot of finessing (pie-cuts and such) was required to match the projected corner curves. Glad the zinc was removed ‘cause a bunch of welding and re-welding was needed to get the curves right.

After a few days of fiddling and fettling here’s the result:
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The 1.5" o.d. structural chassis rails provide good protection for the fuel cell while the thin-wall 1" tubes provide the body line.

The cardboard template shows the approximate fender profile. Note the addition of the wheel arch tubes mentioned in the previous post.
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Turns out the rear panel height (17”) is the same as the Haynes design. The top of the boot slopes aft at 7* and the sides taper in at about 10*.
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Do you think the 8” bends make my boot look to big? :shock:

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: April 15, 2018, 11:53 pm 
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Do you think the 8” bends make my boot look to big? :shock:
Tom, you know better than to ask a question like that. You know JD is going to answer.

Keep building!

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PostPosted: April 16, 2018, 7:39 am 
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benny_toe wrote:
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Do you think the 8” bends make my boot look to big? :shock:
Tom, you know better than to ask a question like that. You know JD is going to answer.
Whooo Meeee? :mrgreen: Well, since I have a reputation to live down to...
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To give ya a semi-straight answer (for once!)... The radii are bigger, and it's obvious, but if it will add or detract from the "look" of the car is hard to say without the sheet metal and fenders on it. I think it will look as good or better than the "standard" rear bodywork, but whadda I know? :mrgreen:

Peace, Love and "Oooh, dat A$$!"
JDK

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PostPosted: April 20, 2018, 11:14 am 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
To give ya a semi-straight answer (for once!)... The radii are bigger, and it's obvious, but if it will add or detract from the "look" of the car is hard to say without the sheet metal and fenders on it. I think it will look as good or better than the "standard" rear bodywork, but whadda I know?
I'm thinking that with the tapered sides, sloped top and diffuser slope on the bottom that the boot will come off fairly svelte. But then the wide fenders with the reverse taper to match the boot sides might change all of that. I''ll just have to hang some metal and see I guess.

And good to know that Pooh isn't politically correct either. Pooh and Pogo -- Diversity are us. :cheers:

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: April 21, 2018, 6:28 am 
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Looks great Tom, look forward to this one's future.


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PostPosted: July 6, 2018, 5:43 am 
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Hello Tom
I've only recently come across LocostUSA and, therefore, these marvellous build-logs, but I have much enjoyed following your progress and seeing how you have solved problems.
I may well be too late but, way back, I was intrigued by your dashboard design... and had the following idea... I have no idea whether it can be adopted, or even if it could work but... how about:

Take the piece of wood that you want to use for the dash and screw it neatly to a thin steel sheet, of the same size and shape - to match the opening in the scuttle. Make the holes to take the instruments through both wood and steel, but fasten them to the wood - not the steel, which will need a little light relief around the fastenings.
Separate the two pieces and weld the steel plate to the scuttle (in front of or behind, as you prefer), fix the instruments to the wooden dash panel, and then screw it back to the steel plate...
This way the steel sheet will provide the additional strength you desire and you will still be able to remove the dash panel complete with instruments for repairs/adjustments... and you can dispense with the scuttle bracing tubes, and put the dials/switches wherever you choose.

Sorry if this is all too tarde... MangPong.


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PostPosted: July 6, 2018, 9:50 am 
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This, and many other threads, have given me so much inspiration and food for thought that, it's getting a trifle difficult to process it all at times. But, the best analogy I have for absorbing this info is eating an elephant. Little bites..... one after the other, until it's done!

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PostPosted: July 6, 2018, 10:44 am 
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MangPong wrote:
This way the steel sheet will provide the additional strength you desire and you will still be able to remove the dash panel complete with instruments for repairs/adjustments... and you can dispense with the scuttle bracing tubes, and put the dials/switches wherever you choose.
MangPong, thank you for the kind words and suggestion. You've identified the primary purpose of the dash bulkhead: Horizonjob designed it to act like a Terry Hoop and be a major structural piece. The original Terry Hoops did use steel inserts like you described, with dimpled holes to provide additional rigidity. The truss braces Car9 uses instead were designed to simulate this kind of structure. Unfortunately my trusses are permanently welded in so I will have to live with the gauge placement limitations. Thanks for the idea, I need all the help I can get.
Raccoonman wrote:
This, and many other threads, have given me so much inspiration and food for thought that, it's getting a trifle difficult to process it all at times. But, the best analogy I have for absorbing this info is eating an elephant. Little bites..... one after the other, until it's done!
Raccoonman, thanks! Your analogy works for building a car, too. One bite of the elephant at a time. :D

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: July 6, 2018, 10:47 am 
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To give ya a semi-straight answer (for once!)... The radii are bigger, and it's obvious, but if it will add or detract from the "look" of the car is hard to say without the sheet metal and fenders on it. I think it will look as good or better than the "standard" rear bodywork, but whadda I know? :mrgreen:

Peace, Love and "Oooh, dat A$$!"
JDK[/quote]


I like Big Boots, I cannot lie...

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PostPosted: July 6, 2018, 12:49 pm 
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Dismantalus wrote:
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To give ya a semi-straight answer (for once!)... The radii are bigger, and it's obvious, but if it will add or detract from the "look" of the car is hard to say without the sheet metal and fenders on it. I think it will look as good or better than the "standard" rear bodywork, but whadda I know? :mrgreen:
Peace, Love and "Oooh, dat A$$!"
JDK

I like Big Boots, I cannot lie...
Dismantalus, I've pretty much decided to go with freestanding rear fenders. That should add to the Big Boots illusion in a sexy, vintage kind of way. 8)

On the "progress" front, life is full but I've been pecking away on build items that had become mental obstacles. The non-structural tunnel being one of them. Pics to follow when a little more progress to show.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: July 7, 2018, 1:37 pm 
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The design of my non-structural tunnel had me chasing my tail for quite a while. The 1” engine offset, the pinion shaft offset, two robust U-joints and the 2” x ¼” driveshaft safety hoops together require a 5- 5/8” inches tunnel width. However, only 5” had been allowed for when the two longitudinal floor tubes were installed. And the transmission tailshaft is wider still. Then the nose and mounting br@ck^ts for the diff require their share of real estate. :BH:

While contemplating what to do during a vroom-vroom session (…ommmm…) it all became clear. At least it did when I tried to get out. Seems I need a solid, high-mount push-point for my right hand in order to extricate myself from the driver’s seat. A combination of bad left shoulder and high upper chassis rail ruled out getting much leverage from the left side and pulling on the windshield frame will be a no-no, so my right arm will need to do the bulk of the lifting. Once the push-point notion was established most of the rest of the design fell into place.

Two 1” x 0.065” DOM tubes form the top of the 5-5/8” wide tunnel. The tubes flair to match up with the dash verticals flanking the tranny tailshaft and tie into a cross piece added at the diff end. 5/8” square tube is used for the bracing bits. The driveshaft and bolt-in safety hoops install from the passenger’s side which requires a big "window," limiting bracing on that side. The driver’s side will get a diagonal added once the safety hoop mounts and seat belt attachment points are finalized. Removable aluminum panels will cover the tunnel and some insulation will likely be added to the inside of the panels, particularly under the “arm rest” area. With the e-brake lever mounted on the left side of the cockpit, the tunnel should end up very clean looking.
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I still need to figure out the origami needed to cover the sides of differential snout. Seems the seats want some of that space, too. So lots of fiddly fabin’ to do, but finally getting there on the tunnel.

Oh, and the added tunnel width also meant I needed to go with a narrower, 15” Kirkey Vintage Bucket Seat for the passenger side. As a result, I have a nice unused 16” version for sale. :)
viewtopic.php?f=40&t=19408

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: July 7, 2018, 2:08 pm 
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Dismantalus wrote:
To give ya a semi-straight answer (for once!)... The radii are bigger, and it's obvious, but if it will add or detract from the "look" of the car is hard to say without the sheet metal and fenders on it. I think it will look as good or better than the "standard" rear bodywork, but whadda I know? :mrgreen:

JDK

Weird, your post here was quoted earlier in this thread 10 weeks before you wrote it!

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