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A better closeup of the issue. These balljoints (moog) came with nylon nuts in the first place, so would a nylon jam nut possibly suffice here? If so, it might alleviate the issue.

It is either a castle nut and cotter pin or a nyloc nut. I've found they sometimes supply either/or with the same ball stud.

You could swap the hardware but as long as the threads protrude from the nylon (prefer at least 3) it should be ok. Your plate is probably two threads thick. You could also skim the nut to make it thinner so the nylon fully engages the full thickness of the stud since they often taper at the very end.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Gotcha. They provided nylon nuts, but I've been a bit hesitant to cut anything off of them. I was also not able to use a castle nut safely. I have some nyloc jam nuts that are basically just half height nyloc nuts that i'll probably try. In either case, I have every combination of thing to try. Thanks for the input.

On a good note the new brackets are already obviously better on preventing flex. The only "flex" that is possible now comes from the flat steel, which might get replaced as well. However, it takes genuine effort to flex them, and they'd probably hold my weight if I tried to sit on them without touching the tire (not that I'm going to try ).

You might look at 'Stover' lock nuts, they're low profile.
Again like Miatav8 stated, there needs to be threads protruding, me, at least a full 2 threads.
The only issue I have with nylok nuts or stover nuts in this application is that the threaded shaft have a hex hole in the end. This allows an Allen wrench to hold the BJ to TRE threaded stub from spinning in the event it starts to when tightening or loosening with a box end wrench.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Ok... so I think I'm done guys. Tested the fenders yesterday (first day cool enough to drive with any comfort at all) and they work like a charm. The roughest roads cause fender vibration, but not enough to touch the tire or anything. Thanks for all the help. The build is wrapped up.

Nice work on the video. Thanks for the ride-along.

You look like you're having way too much fun.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886