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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 26, 2017, 6:29 pm 
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Is the Cologne engine the little V4 that came in snowmobiles, SAAB Sonett, etc.?

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PostPosted: February 26, 2017, 7:29 pm 
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No, the Taunus V-4 is what you're thinking about. The Cologne V-6 variants were the hot V-6's in Fords until the 3.0 and 3.2 SHO (From Yamaha) came along.

Tom

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PostPosted: February 26, 2017, 8:12 pm 
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Yup, you're right. The names they give them confuse me.

So what size is the Cologne? What did it come in over here? Physically it's tiny.

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PostPosted: February 26, 2017, 9:30 pm 
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I had a couple in Mercury Capri's. Blew the cam bearings on one (lost oil pressure) and picked up a replacement at a local wrecker. They had 4 and I had my choice for $75. Always thought it a great engine.

Was a guy in KC just before I moved away that had one in a Formula Ford with a turbo from a Corvair. Ran quite well.

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PostPosted: February 27, 2017, 1:39 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
Yup, you're right. The names they give them confuse me.

So what size is the Cologne? What did it come in over here? Physically it's tiny.


Do you remember the pretty little German Ford Capri's that were sold here by Lincoln-Mercury dealers? That's where they became known to us. The "Cologne" engines grew from 2.8L to 4.0L eventually, and there's even a Cosworth 24 valve version. There is a lot of speed equipment available for it in Europe. It's a 60 degree V6, so very compact.

Here's a little YouTube video of some Capri's on a race track ==> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbf5BfSpylA

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: February 27, 2017, 2:53 pm 
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The Taunus V4 came first. It was a 60 degree V4 with a balance shaft, available from 1.0 to 1.4 liters. SAAB used it in the early Sonnetts, and Ford's industrial division sold them in the USA to power irrigation pumps.

Ford tacked on two more cylinders and deleted the balance shaft, creating the V6 line. German and American Capris and a handful of Mustang IIs came with the 2.6 liter version; British Capris came with a different, British-designed 3.0 V6. (known as the "Essex" engine)

Ford opened the 2.6 up to 2.8, and the British started using that one. The Mustang II and Capri went away, but the Ranger pickup began using it.

Ford punched the engine out to 4.0L for the Explorer, and came out with an SOHC version. That was the last of the Cologne series.

There are quite a few differences between the Ranger 2.8 and the Capri 2.8; the 4.0 versions have very little interchangeability with the earlier engines. Parts for the early 2.8 and the 2.6 are mostly boutique items and expensive now.

If you're planning to rebuild a Ranger 2.8, give Norm at Team Blitz a call. He has a couple of pallets of brand new factory engines he'd like to sell...


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PostPosted: February 27, 2017, 3:22 pm 
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The 1984 ranger 2.8L V6 had 89k on it when pulled. Ran strong. Smoked a little, which is typical of 2.8s, because of valve seals.
I checked "Norm at Team Blitzs" Ebay sales page and found rebuilt long blocks, line bored and internally balanced, for $1495.00 with $400.00 estimated shipping.
That sounds good to me. Maybe after it's on the road.
At this point I'm looking for the most Locost path to finishing it so it can be driven.
The prices for shocks, a shortened drive shaft and gauges has me backing off of any unnecessary spending.
Lots of room for upgrades latter. :)
Ron

Took pictures of one of my MGB overflow tanks. Looks to be brass.
Attachment:
MG overflow tank 01.jpg

Attachment:
MG overflow tank 02.jpg

Attachment:
MG overflow tank 03.jpg

Could look nice on the firewall.
Ron


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PostPosted: November 22, 2017, 2:39 pm 
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Picked up more parts. For now, going with an upholstered rear bulkhead and seat cushions. Using this back seat for materials.
Attachment:
seat from a 1999 Lexus ES300.jpg

Also picked up an 18 gauge certified gas storage tank with vented cap, to use as a gas tank.
Attachment:
15galtank03.jpg

I think it will work until one can be made to fit lower
Attachment:
15galtank01.jpg

Attachment:
15galtank02.jpg

At 15 gallons it measures end to end 38.5 inches and 11 inches in diameter.
Ron


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PostPosted: November 23, 2017, 12:17 pm 
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Pretty fancy seats, dude. Are they out of a Caddy or other high-end car?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: November 23, 2017, 6:32 pm 
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Hey Lonnie!
They're from a 1999 Lexus ES300.
Ron

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PostPosted: November 23, 2017, 8:33 pm 
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I started playing with the Sketchup model. When the tubes for the rear sheet metal are extended 2" back, the tank can sit low enough to have trunk/storage space.
Attachment:
15galtank04.jpg

Attachment:
15galtank06.jpg

Attachment:
15galtank05.jpg

Attachment:
15galtank07.jpg

Also thinking about making the back tubing and the roll bar one piece and making it detachable at the top of the bulkhead and at the point where the bend at the bottom meets the frame.
Attachment:
15galtank08.jpg

I need to think about the trade offs.
Ron


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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 5:03 pm 
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Attachment:
15galtank09.jpg

Attachment:
15galtank10.jpg

This is almost final
Attachment:
15galtank14.jpg

Attachment:
15galtank15.jpg



Ron


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PostPosted: November 26, 2017, 10:42 am 
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The idea for a detachable rear sub frame has been hanging around the back of my mind for awhile. Finding the 15 gallon tank for $60.00 pushed it to the forefront.

Should I get around to making a hardtop, I want it to be one piece including the scuttle. I also want gull wing doors.The spare tire will be inside the body.
These are some of the reference pictures.
Attachment:
1963 ht001.jpg

Attachment:
1963 ht002.jpg

Attachment:
dyn003_original_640_480_jpeg_2613123_a1fafbecbac79490a471e22d397fdfe6.jpg

Attachment:
150428gullltop-3m.jpg

Attachment:
ec45dcc8480c4f2bf7a9e2d4bd6d3a6c--jaguar-s-auto-jaguar.jpg

Attachment:
lotus7replicahardtop-l-5166460476cf0329.jpg


I want to keep a flat front wind screen and use a hatch to access the spare.

To switch to hardtop, the fenders come off, then the back is unplugged and unbolted, the wind screen and scuttle with wipers come off as one piece, and the hardtop bolts back in their place.
One afternoons work and I'll be ready for the " off " season.

At least that's the plan. With a back the unbolts, I have the option.
Ron

PS I'm going to use a 1985 HO carbureted sbf to push the extra weight. :wink:


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PostPosted: November 26, 2017, 11:55 am 
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The VW one was ROFL...

Y'know, if you're going to go through the trouble of a top and gullwing doors, just hinging the whole thing at the back might be practical. Just latch it to the windshield frame to hold it closed when moving, plus a couple of gas struts to assist it opening.

There have been a number of show cars with similar arrangements, and at least one kit car.


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PostPosted: November 26, 2017, 12:22 pm 
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TRX,
The VW photo shopped pic is included because it has a flat wind screen and the frame in part of the scuttle.
Front tilt, just in case the latch didn't hold?
Attachment:
fliptopt.jpg

You're right about how involved a hardtop like the one I want would be.And in the end it will depend on how much fun the 7 is to drive.
The only hard top I would care to have is one like I've described.
If I can't have that I'll just hop into my other car, the 1967 MGB GT with it's HO EFI 5.0 and T5. :)
Ron


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