Thank you all, Lonnie, Nick, and esp42089!
( I just flashed on that scene from MIB " Let me introduce the twins, Bob and esp42089" ).....
Anyway
.
Integrity of the welds is a huge concern. No where more than the welds that hold the wheels on the car
But you see, I started down this road because I wanted to learn how to build a car from scratch. Like the guys in the car magazines I poured over in the 50's and 60's. Bonus, it will be a 2 seat convertible sports car of the first order! You car see how it is worth it to me to take the time to do the welding.
As far as welders...
1) 220v Hobart 235 Amp Stickmate AC/DC and
2) 220v Hobart Handler 210 MIG.
The penetration only has to be as deep as the thinner
( 1/8") bracket pieces. I'm confident I can manage that with practice.
The warping is another issue altogether.
The way the brackets attach to the axle results in very nearly the same amount of heat applied to both sides. ( in theory ).
Attachment:
SatDiagAxle13.jpg
I'll make a tool that spans the length of the tubes so they can be checked for warping. If "warping happens" I understand that the Old School fix is to lay beads on the opposite side until it's straight. With a little care I"ll never know if it works or not.
esp42089
I had to Google IPA.
Do have, will use. I've read that the chamfer should be 30 degrees for two thick pieces that are to be butt welded together, so do you think 45 degrees where they are being joined at right angles? Maybe trying different angles when practicing would help.
About the MIG, right now I'm using flux core wire. I read (again) that flux core gives better penetration. Any thoughts on that?
Again , thanks for the good anvice.
Ron