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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 23, 2013, 2:50 pm 
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Weld a strap along the length like an "I" beam on it's side.


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PostPosted: August 24, 2013, 11:40 pm 
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I would pay more attention to the threaded stud (bolt?) that is welded to the plate. Once you attach a shock or a push-rod to the lower arm there will be some pretty significant bending loads. I don't think that threaded stud will hold up.

Since the lower arms see significant load, can you make the lower arms fixed (weld the tubes in place) and leave the adjustment in the upper arms?

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PostPosted: August 25, 2013, 4:29 pm 
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a.moore wrote:
I would pay more attention to the threaded stud (bolt?) that is welded to the plate.
Ditto. Perhaps instead of the slotted bolt, you could use another clevis like you have on the front tube of the lower arm, only welded instead of bolted.
a.moore wrote:
Once you attach a shock or a push-rod to the lower arm there will be some pretty significant bending loads.
Which you can indeed minimize (in fact, I think you can minimize it all the way down to inconsequential) if your center of your lower ball joint and the center of the two rod end balls on the ends of your push rod are in a straight line, and since you can't get that perfect for the full range of wheel travel, get the lower push rod end as close as practical to the ball joint...which it sounds like you're doing...consistent with keeping the rod-end rod-end ball-joint path straight.

I believe that will take care of the plate bending issue and the vertical bending issue on the slotted bolt/clevis (note I am not an engineer nor have I calculated the forces nor have I built a model and tested it--so don't take my belief as gospel), and the horizontal bending issue on that slotted bolt/clevis can be minimized (and in theory, eliminated) by aiming the front and rear tubes straight at the center of the ball joint. In theory (and it's my theory and I made it up and see previous caveat re my beliefs) the loads on those tubes can be purely tension and compression, providing they're accurately aligned.

The fly in this ointment is there's nowhere to attach an antiroll bar to the lower plate (or tubes) without putting bending loads in them, but since you're using pushrod suspension, your antiroll device (if any) can be inboard as well.

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PostPosted: August 27, 2013, 4:42 pm 
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Hi Guys, Jack, I think pretty much the same way as you. Here are some pictures of it. I think i will try this setup, at least for a first really low speed test through bumps (the corner white and red bumps on a race track) and look at any possible sign of breaking. If it doesn't work, I will take Andrew's suggestion to build a fully welded LCA.

In the mean time, this adjustable LCA will help me finalizing the front setup.

I also worked on the bellcranck and I plan on using the same 1/2ID and 3/4OD brass bushing as a pivots.


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PostPosted: August 28, 2013, 9:53 pm 
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How well will the LS1 fit the chassis, did you need to modify much or is your chassis basically an off the shelf 442?


also aren't you getting a lot of bump steer due to the inner tie rod being so far inboard, relative to the upper & lower control arm mounting positions?

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PostPosted: August 28, 2013, 10:50 pm 
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1fastkingcab wrote:


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Naw, that's a Texas 1/8th inch. Doncha know everything's bigger in Texas!

That look like one of then New York city miles.

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PostPosted: August 29, 2013, 8:04 am 
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Looks awesome so far, I'll be interested to know how the adjustable suspension does.

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PostPosted: August 29, 2013, 8:49 am 
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Hi,

The ls1 fits very well the 442E chassis. If you look at the other pictures, I put the engine about 6 inch more in the back that the usual fire wall would allow me. It gives me more space for the pedals and give the engine more room in the engine bay. It also put the weight more at the center of the car.

As for the bump steer, you are right, I initialy did not though it would be that much. I will possibly work on a steering rack extension to try reducing this.

thanks for your comments.

Yohan


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PostPosted: September 2, 2013, 11:25 am 
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Hi I wasn't happy with the rear attachment pour for the UCA as I though it could bent under load during a bump. I added a small link so it become encapsulated between the 2 links,


I am waiting on my laser cut plates to finalize the front suspension.

Can't waitt to weld the frame after this.


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PostPosted: September 4, 2013, 11:00 pm 
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try to put the inner rod end on the bottom of the steering shaft it can help with bumpsteer.because from what i see the tube from the tie rod are level at full bump witch mean that the control arm getting shorter and the tie rod tube getting longer(relative to the frame)when compressing suspension.y found out in my build that if the rack is to short;the tie rod tube need to be more at an angle than the tab to shorten at the same rate


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PostPosted: September 9, 2013, 7:51 am 
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Thanks Francois for your comment. I will certainly try it.

No photos but I got my driving shaft and finalized the rear drivetrain this week end. I am waiting to finalize my front suspension and then I will start wekding the chassis... can't wait!


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PostPosted: September 15, 2013, 7:37 am 
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I got the plates for the front suspension and started assembling it. It works great so far.

The pivot point needs to me milled so the brass bushing fits well. It shoud be done this week.


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PostPosted: September 15, 2013, 7:45 am 
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I worked on the transmission and diff mounting, I had to lower the back of the engine and raise the front of the diff. I get an horizontal working angle of 1 degree on both joints and the engine is tilted 1 degree down and the diff is tilted 1 degree up. Vertically, I get 2.2 degree working angles on the joint and both engine and diff are parallel. I forgot to take pictures of everything assembled but here are the mounting points.


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PostPosted: September 15, 2013, 7:56 am 
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I removed the engine and transmission and i should start welding the chassis soon. It feels weird to see the chassis without the engine as it has been there for almost 6 months!

Once the chassis will be welded, I plan on dismantling the build table to finish assembling and paneling the chassis on jack stands


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PostPosted: September 22, 2013, 7:24 am 
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OK the pivot points for the front suspension are now positionned. The chassis is ready to be welded. I weighed it and as it it is without the roll bas and panels I am at 190 pounds. A bit heavy...


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