LocostUSA.com

Also found that info too. Small issue is they use different axles but that isn't a big deal.

Found a couple on ebay for $300-400 shipped. A bit expensive but will deff need them with the R1 engine.

looking at the 2 rear portions of the frame side by side and the suby stuff with the trailing arms is so much less then the ford with the traditional A arms.

UGH!! Why is this so hard... Now I know why engineers have 4 years of school...

_________________
30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Took your opinions and threw them in my drawing tonight.

Took what you had drawn and took it a step more to see how I could do the rear A arms minus the trailing arms. On the left side of the frame I will draw the A arms with no trailing arms as well as the shock mount and see what I come up with. The rear is looking like an inboard coilover setup would be really easy to do with the rear "box".



This shows the 2 tubes going to the very back are only there to hold the fuel tank in place.



The drivers area. I still want to offset the trans tunnel and the diff to allow for more room in the passenger area for a larger seat. Also keep me from getting fat. lol Its only an inch to the drivers side. Which gives me 19" passenger and 17" drivers for seat room.



This is just me fiddling around with the idea of no trailing arms, and I blame you Marus. Haha, you posted the drawing of the 1x2" tubes going under the diff to give room for a rear diff mount and doing an a arm for the RLCA and I thought, "Hey, I could get ride of the trailing arms if I tweak that some..."

_________________
30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Finished the RCA's and the shock mount location as well as the bracket for the shock/upright. Its a little rough. Im sure a 1/2 solid piece of steel will be plenty strong enough.

_________________
30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Hi Briggs, that's looking pretty good. We have similar work schedules I see.

I think you're going to be better off with aluminum to make the coilover mount. Especially if you do any of the work. We'll see. I think I priced a piece of 1" x 2" aluminum bar stock it it was under $20 at online metals.

I'm trying to get the rear hoops bent and fitted today along with a bunch of house chores, so I'll post some more stuff later.

Do we have the track correct on the model now? That is the right size halfshafts etc. so we can get the clearance right?

The extensions for the tubes going under the diff were primarily to carry the rear suspension arms, not support the diff. Providing diff and fuel cell support was a happy bonus. With trailing arms all those suspension links became plain radius arms and you don't put any cross connection or triangulation into the control arms. That makes it mostly off the shelf stuff that you weld tabs onto. You can even change the wheel base of the car without having to adjust toe... But we need a diagonal to support those legs under the diff etc.

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

I haven't checked the track width. Do you know the width from hub to hub? If not ill figure it out. just to make sure, track is center wheel to center wheel correct? How accurate are the hubs and rotors in the model?

Now as far as the frame do you mean like this?



Im sure trying to learn and understand the designing of a chassis.

Ill upload the model if you want to look over it. Ill fix the track first tho.

EDIT, I think I got it...

_________________
30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

No I don't know the distance from hub to hub. For the T'bird I looked up the factory track ( tire center to tire center ) and then found the offset of the stock wheels and figured from there. You ned a little room for error, but should be close. Ultimately you have to be able to have adjustment range on your suspension arms and also not run out of travel on your half shafts.

Yup, you're doing the right things in the back to support the suspension. The tubes you added to triangulate on the bottom are right. That's the big load, there is little vertical load from the control arms because they have bearings, but whenever the car corners all that force goes in to the suspension support. The braking loads mostly balance against each other.

I don't think we need to use 1x2 for the lower rails in the cockpit. Places you see the 1x2 being used are where there are loads going into it that are not well triangulated. It's 8 times stiffer then 1x1 on it's long edge side so I use it at the bottom of the dash hoop and main hoop bulkheads to help make them stiff and where the suspnsion mounts in the front for the same reason. Square tube will be easier to work with on the bottom rail.

You are getting the hang of the frame stuff. Triangles as much as possible and then make that triangle connect to another triangle - ideally al the way to wherever that load lands up going.

I wonder what happened to VR6?

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

hi Briggs ("talked" to you over at GJ )

didnt check if somebody already posted it but you may want to check out this BEC gearing calculator :

http://dmr-architect.com/~locouki/CMC-gear-spreadsheet.html

"olrowdy01" did us BEC guys a huge favor and created a spreadsheet where you can enter primary/ secondary bike engine ratios

_________________
- Stephan -

Track width of the Subarus with the R160 doesn't vary much. It's between 57" and 58". I think only the later model US spec STi had the 58" width. I double checked the measurements on one of the models you guys had up a couple of weeks ago and you were spot on at 57", hub to hub... I'll run downstairs to the garage real quick and measure what I have down there...

Thank you so much. If I can get a hug to hub it will make the control arms pretty much dead on.

Hey rooster, didn't notice your screen name at first. You should throw that model up on her. I'm sure this guys will like it more then GJ. Also be able to help you a lot more.

_________________
30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Looks like appx 63.5" hub to hub... Remember, the stock wheel is a 16x7" with a +58 offset, meaning most of the factory wheel and tire are located between hub face and the differential. Like I mentioned before, moving that offset closer to zero gets more clearance around the suspension parts that would be moving around outside the frame, if that's still a concern.

That's a lot of offset! Really good wheel size for people using Pinto/Mustang II spindles, that will get your scrub down to a reasonable number for big tires.

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

I was surprised when I found the number for factory offset. I'm used to seeing numbers in the 35-40 range, but 58 seemed unreal...

Older Jap cars are like that. S2000 has about +60 offset stock. Thanks for doing the work for me.

_________________
30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Its official gents, I am off active duty status as of today. I have a lot to do now that Im back in Charlotte. Just pulled in moms driveway a bit ago.

I have to go to that job and talk to them. I also have to go to the courthouse and reschedule my court date that I missed. Ill be sure to be in uniform for that. haha.

6 years later, honestly cant believe I'm done. Really hope the Reserve thing works out for me.

_________________
30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.