LocostUSA.com

Here's an update on your model. We're not done but I did some cleanups and filled in some details. I probably don't remember everything. As always you can change some things back the way you had them because I may not realize what you are doing. Some things are easy to change other things may be something the car depends on to be strong or stiff.

Here's a quick list of changes.
- put the side of the frame into a component and then copied and flipped it for the other side, now they should be identical

- made the car 44" wide. We can change that and I should double check to make sure it's centered

- added a couple of dimensions.

- fixed some tubes, how they were rotated. Try to rotate the tubes without opening them up. Just select the move feature and use the little "+" symbols that appear on the face of the object.

- filled in some engine bay bracing on the top

- put in some 1"x2" tube on the floor. Most of that is needed for strength and stiffness. 1"x2" tube is about 8 times stiffer in the 2" direction, so that is why I use it across the floor and under the dash and main hoop.

- started some work on the rear bulkhead inside the main hoop. You can see how the idea is to tie in to the place that the diagonal and shoulder bar intersect. Oh we may need the shoulder bar at a different height for the seat belts.

Take a look and let's make a list of things to do...
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u5b0b01e5-50e5-405e-9c38-35d35a23d39e

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

I'm finishing up some small things here and there. When I finish this stuff up which will be prob be tonight. I'll upload it and go from there.

As far as the list I deff want to get some suspension pick up points on the chassis.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Been drawing since 11pm. I took a small break at 2am and went to Walmart for some snacks. haha....

This update includes a prop shaft, and a new tunnel.

Suspension is done, front and rear, hopefully as is well there. Take a look at the rear spring mounting location. I would like your thought on that.

I redid the rear portion of the frame for the suspension pickup points, and the rear firewall.

I added 1/8" plate all to the roll cage bits.

I offset the diff an inch to the drivers side. That gives me 18" on the driver side (Im a smaller guy) and 20" on the passenger side so I can put in a larger seat for some of my family members and friends.

Redid the shifter. Much easier and less parts. Stays under the top frame rails.

Let me know what you guys think. Cheers!!

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model. ... 664d2ad8a7

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

When you are figuring out multiple gear ratios like this you need to multiply them instead of adding them, so your effective final drive ratio will be 5.95728:1 if you use a 3.94:1 diff with the stock 1.512:1 primary reduction. If you use a tbord diff with a 2.73:1 ratio, it will effectively be a 4.13:1. Hope this helps in your search for the right diff.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172

Thanks, I wasn't aware of that.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

You did a great job on your model updates, you certainly are getting the hang of this. I need to find a few hours to dig in again and do some more.

So far as pickup points I can post the Vsusp link for where Tom and I landed up for our builds. Then the idea would be to find something similar for your uprights.

Car9G_Initial

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Thanks Marcus. That makes me feel really good about all this. So the way I have the rear shocks mounted is ok?

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Hmm, I'm not sure yet. It's nice to have the coilover bolted to the upright. It keeps the load from the weight of the car and bumps etc. off the control arms. What we'll need to do is make sure that the wheel offsets/tires and suspension travel work out OK. That's sort of why I left this to near the end on my and Tom's car. THe downside is we had to scramble a bit here at the end to make things work out. That's better than making choices too early and getting things wrong though.

Tom is looking at the GAZ shocks that Jack and Dennis Brunton (Stalker) sell. http://coilovershock.com/GAZ%20Coil%20overs.htm

You could use one a couple of inches shorter than what's in the picture now, but you will have less travel. It may work to bolt it to the lower rear of the upright. It would share a bolt with the control arm then, but maybe that's OK.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

If my measurements are correct I need a 12" shock and that one will give me 3.5" travel. Only issue Im concerned with is how I will mount the rear fenders if I mount the shock on top like I want. But its just a body panel, nothing too big to worry about.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Made some changes to the rear upright and the the upper controls arms. Im was thinking I can drill a new hole in the center of the 2 uppers and make the upper bolt level with the lower. Its been a big problem having the bolt at such an angle. My biggest worry is with the rod bearings binding. If I go with a poly bushing on the lower mount of the coilover I wouldn't be able to mount it at such an angle of the stock shock mount on the upright.

So if I drill a new hole it solves my problems. Hopefully Ill be able to do this. Thoughts gents??

Before.



After



This is using a 13" shock and gives me 4" of travel, hopefully this will be plenty enough. I've also moved the shock mount inward and had to move one of the triangulation tubes out of the way. Which makes it not tie in with the rest of the tubes like it should. Fix one issue another popes up... Typical huh??





Thoughts??

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Another way would be to change the orientation of the br*cket on the frame.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Im not sure I understand what you mean.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

I'm back at Bragg, hopefully I can finish all this up this week. Fingers are crossed.

Finished up the front suspension, shocks are 15" long.

With me having 2 different length shocks; 15" up front and 13" out back I'm curious if that will cause issues. I'll have more travel up front then I will out back. Do I need to make all the shocks the same length? I assume it's fine as most cars have different length shocks in the front/back.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

I think you can make an adapter or mounting block for your coilover on the back upright. THis would be from a piece of 6061 aluminum bar about 1.25" x 2". I think you could make this with a bandsaw and a drill press. The red color is optional but what the hell, go for it!

It would take a little more effort to come up a final idea, but this let's you get the mount for the coilover lined up instead of being at a funny angle which will be good for the shocks joint, you could also use a bushing with this.

I also have an idea for how to fix the diagonal that you need to move. That's an important diagonal because it holds up the roll bar and also makes the coilover mount stiff.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

I like it!! Great Idea. I figured I have to have some machine work done for how the trailing arms bolt to the end of the bolts that go to the upright. So add this to the list. No biggie. Hopefully I can get my machinist at work to do these for me as he has a CNC at his house.



I was going to add some 1/8" triangle plate as some additional bracing to that joint.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…