LocostUSA.com

I have to agree with the others about registering in BC. I sweated bullets for the last half of my build about it but when it was time things went very smoothly. Find an inspection place and talk to them. Some like cars and some don't. If I'd known how it was going to go I would of had less sleepless nights and terror attacks

Thanks for all the info on regs. I'll worry less about that now and focus more on building.

Hey Mark, it nice to have connected. I have to admit that it was your build...I first saw the picasa pics...that got me interested in doing this. In fact, t was the pic that said Capilano Bridge that made me realize you were here in BC. I found all the other sites etc afterward. So thanks for the initial motivation.

Tearing apart the donor started this weekend. In my mind I always think these things should go faster than they do. Front suspension apart and parts collected. Fan put away for a rainy day. Anyone one have info on how to shorten the steering rack and how to convert from power to manual?

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Marcel Q
Victoria BC Canada

Hi Marcel,

Glad that I could provide you some motivation! Building a Locost really is a rewarding project. Here is a great step by step guide to de-power the rack:

http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

In order to shorten it, there are a few extra steps. First, determine how many inches you have to remove from the length of the rack. With the rack centered, you will want the inner tie-rod pivot point to fall in line with a line drawn from the lower wishbone inner pivot axis to the upper wishbone inner pivot axis. You then need to remove the extra length from the rack housing and the inner rack itself. A word of caution here. I would advise against cutting a section out of the inner rack and welding the ends together. If this weld fails, you will lose your steering. The better method is to cut the right side of the rack off to the correct length and then machine the end of the rack with the correct features to thread in the right side inner tie rod end.

Make sure you have both ends of the rack housing well aligned when you go to weld them together, so the inner rack will move smoothly in it.

Hope this helps!
Mark

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Photo gallery of my completed Locost:
https://plus.google.com/photos/10397358 ... banner=pwa

If you search around this site a bit, I think there is also some information on how to shorten the rack by just taking material off the long end and then having it re-tapped. It was something I had made note of, but kind of lost track after my build changed directions.

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.. in the world

Work on stripping the donor is coming along. Decided I'm going the route of dropping the subframes and lifting the body off.

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Marcel Q
Victoria BC Canada

Haha, I found the dis-assembly of my Miata to be a bit fun.

This would be useful info, I'd be interested as well!

Search for the words shorten miata rack (not in parenthesis) There are 2 ways to shorten the rack. Read carefully and understand the issues. Then decide which direction to follow. Both group's supporters make good arguements for their chosen direction and to discredit the other's. You will ultimately have to choose between the two. If you chose to drill and tap, then perhaps someone here will loan you their tap for the cost of a adult beveridge. If you purchase a tap, I guarantee that you will never, ever, use that tap again.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Thanks for the info Chuck. Will definitely search and look. I love how there seems to be a number of ways to do each step.

Ollie, I've been finding the tear apart fun too. Especially since I don't have to remember how it goes back together.

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Marcel Q
Victoria BC Canada

Been way too long since last post. This car building thing always seems to get interupted by other house projects or activities. Spent the summer re-landscaping. At least it was out in the sunshine.

The build is slow but progressing. Frame is coming together with the basic parts in place. Lots left to do though. I decided to use the Miata rear subframe which meant doing some mods on the design. I wanted to keep the wheelbase as close to original as possible and this meant moving the subframe forward which meant shrotening the cockpit a bit. Should still all be good if I build the foot box into the engine compartment. Will still wait to see if that will be necessary. I was also going to use the ppf and simply shorten it but realized the height of the engine and differential was going to make this impossible unless I cut some of the bottom frame rails. I decided to keep the strength in place. The other issue i have encountered is that the rear subframe places a lot of torque on the what will be the rear bulkhead. I added triangulation in the sides to stiffen this area up and now need to reinforce the top lateral cross piece. I decided to go with a wider front end a la John's fine build so that I can use the stock Miata steering rack.

All in all I am happy with the frame so far. Have made many mods based on other peoples work but not sure if they will all work in the end. Up next is to keep going on triangulating the various areas of the frame and then to get the motor and differential mounts made, located and tacked. Ordering some GRP wings and nose are also on the agenda over the holidays as is planning out the front suspension.

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Marcel Q
Victoria BC Canada

some photos

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Marcel Q
Victoria BC Canada

Great looking garage and good start on the frame!!

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

A few more additions this week. Been playing with steering column and wheel. Converted an old steering wheel a friend gave me years ago from his early 70s MG to fit the Miata steering column. He moved to a 90 Miata SN# 1001. Could be the first in Canada if the other 1000 went somewhere else first.

Also been playing with pedals and MCs. Decided to use the stock brake MC and up the pedal ratio to 6.5 to 1 and not run the booster. Not sure if that will be enough but thought I would give it a go first. Made some new pedals and also reversed the MCs. Still need to make the frame fasteners.

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Marcel Q
Victoria BC Canada

Reversed MCs! Clever! You'll need to pay particular care to stiffening up the MC mounting plate or your brakes will feel spectacularly squishy, but the concept is appealing and I don't think bracing that plate will stump you.

I'm eager to see how you do your firewall.

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Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles

Thanks Jack. Clever will be in the result if it works. Plate is 1/8 and should be strong enough. Im going to brace it from near the MC mounting to the pivot point so that all the force is between the two. Im more concerned about keeping the whole assembly from rotating as I depress the pedals. I do have a few ideas for that though. Im trying to design it so that if it doesnt work or I am unhappy in the future I can easily swap that whole assembly out for a Willwood set up. Just trying to keep costs down so I can buy some coilovers in the future.

PS - looking foward to more parts to play with later in the month.

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Marcel Q
Victoria BC Canada